2009 Loire

2009 Les Culs de Beaujeu - like the statue of Christ overlooking Rio, so Francois's 'Les Culs de Beaujeu' hovers high above the village of Chavignol. 'Culs' in this sense means a sharp incline, not surprising the given the minimum 60% gradient. Standing among the low, gnarled vines of approx 35 yo, you feel like you're in one of those fairground 'big dippers' as it pauses before plunging down below.

This vineyard has more clay which perhaps accounts for its velvety charm. Tasting the 2009 I was struck by its cool composure in the face of some evidently richer than average fruit. Very subtle, creamy, plenty of detail, yet lacy all the same. Dry despite the presence of approx 5 grams of residual sugar; the sugar balanced by the vineyard's taut minerality. Good for 20 years at least, but drinking from 2014 I'd say.

The 2009 vintage was influenced by hail, draught  hence an earlier  smaller than average harvest, this is one of those rich sunny years where the personality of the vintage comes through stronger than that of the vineyard. Though Francois Cotat's 2009s come in at c. 15% abv they are balanced by the inherent minerality of his exceptional vineyards. (Such has been the climatic change that Francois hasn't needed to chaptalise since the 2004 vintage.)
(David Berry Green)