Granite slopes behind the key villages of Mauves, Glun and Tournon are the source of this soft and supremely elegant St Joseph, which has been aged for 14 months in five- to six- year-old barrels. Cassis and sun-dried herbs inform the palate which is opulent yet impressively light on its feet.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

The news from Domaine du Tunnel is that the eponymous (disused railway) tunnel has almost been renovated by M Robert and will house a naturally cool—in both senses of the word—bottling cellar and tasting room, up in the hills above St Péray. This charming and very welcoming family continue to make great wines and were lucky enough to avoid hail in 2013; the resulting wines are excellent, with the whites boasting freshness and definition while the reds are pleasingly forward. Looking at the wines from barrel, the 2013 Saint Joseph has a terrific perfume of violets, wild herbs, spring flowers and pepper-laced purple fruits. It’s medium-bodied, supple and polished, with impressive purity. It has some tannin emerging on the finish, but I suspect these will fall away once in bottle. It should drink nicely for 4-6 years after release.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

Granitic slopes behind Mauves provide the fruit for this excellent St Joseph;, a gift, or similar, from Emmanuel’s father-in-law, Bernard Faurie. The Faurie genius is evidenced in a wine of tense, stony acidity and impressive, peppery power, with crushed— rock tannins and crunchy fruit providing impressive structural support.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

An unwelcome hailstorm, allied to the usual refrains about the late season and apparently delayed harvest, ensured that 2013 was not the easiest of years for Emmanuel. This, of course, has not dulled the spirit of a man who seems to maintain his youthful enthusiasm for all things vinous. His naturally inquisitive mind has now been refined by experience and his use of oak is less ambitious—no bad thing in an appellation where the primacy and purity of the fruit itself should always be key.

A longer maceration, but with less pumping over; Christophe’s philosophy has paid dividends with a wine which is long and pleasingly aromatic with graphite, blueberry liqueur and crushed rock all in evidence. The wine is dense yet pure; its sweet fruit beautifully integrated in deference to the now much imitated house style.
Simon Field MW - Rhone Buyer

Christophe Delorme describes 2013 as atypical, citing parsimonious yields of eight hectolitres per hectare for the Grenache in his Châteuneuf vineyards and a reduction in volume of his Lirac of over 50 percent. Such things make cash flow hard to predict, let alone manage; the prospect inspires a Gallic shrug and the observation that quality must be maintained, even with volumes which are far from profitable. This, it seems, has been achieved. His parting shot is to describe the wines as ‘rare – but great’.

The barrel tasting chez Ogier is by turns entertaining and rewarding; Stéphane describes his Syrah from Côte Baudin, for example, as a ‘fake blonde’, the wine is far more floral than the vineyard a little further up the hill, Layat, which also features in the blend. The stalwarts of Besset, Fongeant, Champon and Viallière are joined this year by a new holding in Montmain. The wine is appropriately complex, floral, ‘aérien’ and with supple, sweet fruit and precise, very fine tannins. Drink 2017 to 2024.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.

From the Bédarrides commune in the south-east of the appellation, Croix de Bois is a monovarietal Grenache, and one which is seemingly careless of some of the problems which beset that varietal in 2013. Reserved at the moment than the wine has plenty of matière, spice and poised tannin, ensuring that its evolution will be fascinating to follow.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill.


In the same ballpark, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois has a softer, more upfront and textured feel then the Barbe Rac, which always seems to me to be slightly more serious and focused. Giving up loads of jammy blackberry and assorted darker fruits, licorice, and wild herbs, this full-bodied, ripe and layered effort makes the most of the vintage. It will drink nicely on release and dish out plenty of pleasure through 2023.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

Made from 100 percent Grenache in the pebbly vineyards in the south-east corner of the appellation, some of its vines over 100 years old, and aged for 16 months in large old wooden vats, this is a hugely successful Barbe Rac, its aromas of Provençal herbs and crushed raspberry imparting Mediterranean warmth and old-vine grip. Of the two top Châteauneuf parcels, this one is the more generous in terms of its fruit profile. 
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill.


What should be up with the crème of the vintage, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac is smoking stuff. Made from 100% Grenache and coming from less than a half-ton per acre (which is just about nothing), it sports a deep purple color to go with fabulous strawberry, blackberry, dried garrigue, cured meats and earth. About as seamless and elegant as they come in the vintage, it has medium to full-bodied richness, ultra-fine tannin and beautiful length. It should be reasonably approachable on release, and evolve for over a decade.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

There is a school of thought which, quite reasonably, worries that there are so many cuvées being made by Michel in Hermitage that this famous name may be in some way compromised. This is both to under-estimate the overall quality of the Chapoutier holdings on the hill and also to misunderstand the fact that this, alone, is the blended Hermitage cuvée, and therefore still has its own very special place in the Chapoutier canon. The 2013 proves this rather eloquently; ripe, seductive raspberry flavours with classic notes of gibier and sousbois, very firm but ripe tannins and a strong finish.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Michel Chapoutier is now the president of Inter-Rhône, which, we suggest, is very good news for Inter-Rhône, such is his energy and appetite for lively debate. The enormous new winery next to the motorway has his name written on the side in such large letters that it is probably visible from the moon, let alone the fast lane of the A7. Beyond the vanity, the classic cars, the helicopters and the bluff exterior, there is an engaging personality, a very capable businessman and, most importantly by far, a superb winemaker.

A classy effort that could be up with the big boys of the vintage, the inky colored 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Cadettes (42% Syrah, 37% Grenache and 21% Mourvedre) has ample black raspberry and cassis fruit intermixed with licorice, toasted bread, charcoal and background meatiness. While this cuvée sees aging in new French oak barrels, its larger portions of Syrah and Mourvedre soak up any trace of oak in its first few years of life. It’s also worth remembering that while 2013 was difficult for Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre both did well. This medium to full-bodied beauty has fabulous purity of fruit, noticeable, yet ripe, tannin and solid length. It should round into form nicely with short-term cellaring and have 10-15 years of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014 The Cadettes is unusual this year in that there is more Syrah than Grenache in the blend. The wine is appropriately dense with big colour and firm tannins; black fruit with hints of forest floor and even peat complete the picture. Southern warmth meets northern class, and they get on very nicely indeed.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Christian Voeux is better qualified than most when he compares 2013 to the most lauded vintages of the late 20th century. Before taking on the prize job at La Nerthe five years ago, Christian was the highly influential winemaker at Château Mont- Redon for 25 years. The prospect of low yields does not rule out ‘vendanges verte’, he muses, in the same way that cooler temperatures do not mean that the wines will be lacking in structure—QED.

The limestone from the Méal vineyard informs the style this year; that is to say it is feminine, charming, linear and long. It’s a shame that the availability is so short, however, as only eight barrels were made. None of the fruit was destemmed, a fact which is hard to believe sometimes, such is the silky texture of this very fine wine. There is something in the region of eight percent Marsanne in this wine, it seems.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman.

The name, with its appropriate intimations of serenity, reminds us of the old name for Syrah up here. The plots cover Brune and Blonde, with a significant tranche from Les Roziers. Partial maturation in new barrel makes this the keeper of the family, its tannins adding spice and vivacity to the top notes of a purring, velvety Syrah.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Yves Gangloff despite the slightly rock-androll look, may be a little too well-established to be described as an enfant terrible; be that as it may, he still plays a mean electric guitar and, for that matter, is not entirely inept as a winemaker. His popularity, indeed, is legendary in France, which means that not very much of the already-diminutive production is available for the export market. Berry Bros. & Rudd are fortunate enough to have had a long-standing relationship with the great man, so we are relatively lucky in this respect.

Arguably the most iconic dry Riesling on the planet, Trimbach’s Clos St Hune is a 1.67-hectare vineyard that produces approximately just 8,000 bottles a year. It is traditionally aged for five years in the cellar after bottling, before release, and in great vintages, it is capable of drinking beautifully for another half century.

The 2011 is a classically styled vintage of this great Riesling. Not as exuberant as some warmer vintages, presently the wine is relatively taut with beautiful minerality. It still has the slightly glossy, polished palate-weight of this iconic wine. I expect it to open out in the next couple of years and drink for 20 more.

More closed than its junior siblings in youth, L’Ermite will come round over time with a Montrachet-like self-assurance. The sine qua non of Marsanne, or, quite possibly, of all white wines, this is an outstanding wine, and more than justifies Michel’s often outspoken but seldom unsuccessful quest for perfection.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill Completing a trifecta of perfect whites, the 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite Blanc is another sensational effort that offers incredible minerality/liquid rock in its pineapple, tangerine, flower oil, mint and caramelized citrus-driven bouquet. Full-bodied and beautiful on the palate, with more tension and focus than the Cuvee de L’Orée or le Meal, it has perfectly balanced richness, structure and freshness, with no hard edges and a blockbuster finish. It won't be accessible for another 3-4 years and will most likely be immortal in the cellar.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

From the north of the Côte Blonde, just above the town of Ampuis and not far from the famous Guigal Single Vineyards, this is 100 percent Syrah, confirming that Michel does not really believe in blended wines, not in the north of the valley at least. From soils made up of mica schist, loess and iron oxide, this is a beautifully crafted wine, with feline Syrah elegance and a silky veil of tannin.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill
 

Looking at Michel's 2013 Cote Rotie la Mordoree, it has a peppery, floral, lavender and black-raspberry-driven bouquet to go with medium to full-bodied richness on the palate. Ripe, nicely concentrated and balanced, with juicy acidity, it has a classic style and will benefit from short-term cellaring. It should have two decades of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

As you climb towards the chapel the soil gets thinner and thinner until all that is left is pure granite; and purity is certainly a key descriptor for L’Ermite in 2013. Parsimonious yields and minimal intervention are responsible for this, the definitive statement of Syrah, a wine that effortlessly combines charm and austerity, simplicity and encyclopaedic complexity, reticence and expansive poetry.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill. The 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite is another wine that’s a candidate for the wine of the vintage, if not the best wine produced in all of France in 2013. As normal, it has an insane level of minerality, and frankly, I know of no better description of “liquid rock” than the mineral-like sensation induced by tasting this cuvee. Graphite, charcoal, licorice and sweet crème de cassis also all emerge from the glass. This gorgeous 2013 has full-bodied richness, terrific purity, ripe tannin structure and serious intensity. Give it 4-5 years and drink bottles over the following 2-3 decades.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

From vines located in the parcel of Les Murets, this is a ripe expression of 100 percent Marsanne, its nutty texture backed by a youthful, almost tropical ebullience, its seductive aromatics dominated by blonde tobacco, fennel and sour honey. The puppy fat will fall away with time allowing even greater complexity to confirm initial qualitative suspicions.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill. Leading off three single-vintage whites from Hermitage, the stunning 2013 Ermitage Cuvee de L’Orée has an off-the-hook bouquet that includes just about everything you could think of when considering Hermitage Blanc. White peach, white flowers, almond paste, quince and wet rock are just some of the nuances, and it packs a serious punch on the palate, with full-bodied richness, a flamboyant, expansive texture and riveting focus and purity. Give it a year or so and drink it over the following 2-3 decades.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

Beneath the famous chapel, but still part of the solid granite Bessards commune, the Pavillon is so-named in reference to the ruins of an old stone house. The wine is dense, sinewy and long, with distinctive black cherry fruit, liquorice and cigar box evidenced. Twenty percent new oak is worn with nonchalance, but adds subtle texture to the ensemble.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill. Moving to the 2013 Ermitage le Pavillon, it has terrific depth, density and concentration to go with layers of crème de cassis, Asian spice, toasted bread, licorice and the essence of granite-induced minerality. While this vintage produced more fresh, firm wines, this has a generosity and sexiness that defines the stereotype. Nevertheless, I suspect short-term cellaring will be required for it to be approachable, and it will have a long life.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

The Landonne vines are venerable, some dating back to the 1920s and all made up of Syrah only. Ageing is for 24 months and is shared between demi-muids (550-litre barrels) and older Burgundian pièces, a small percentage of which are new. René detects less of the ‘oxide de fer’ character this year, which translates in the glass into a rich, spicy wine, with complex red fruit nuances and immense power on the finish: archetypal l Landonne in other words.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Gnomic and somewhat whimsical at times, René has been playing his own tune for 43 vintages and shows little sign of abdicating. The Dauphin, Pierre, is now firmly and patiently ensconced. All the grapes were destemmed in 2013 and the harvest was not completed until October 13th; quality is good however, very good indeed.
A big step up over the Ampodium, the 2013 Cote Rotie la Landonne is a muscular, mineral and iron-laced 2013 that has lots of black and blue fruits, crushed rock, pepper and ground herb-like qualities all emerging from the glass. Shockingly good on the palate, it has full-bodied richness, lots of mid-palate depth and a plenty of structure. It will need a decade of cellaring, but be worth it.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

The Syrah makes up 40 percent of the blend this year and, in Christophe’s opinion, is the best that he has ever made. The balance is shared between Mourvèdre and Grenache. It certainly gives the wine lift and an exuberant attack, with loganberry, myrtle, sloe and violets to the fore. A fleshy, rich mouth-feel and refreshing finish underline this wine’s position as the best in the appellation.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Christophe Delorme describes 2013 as ‘atypical’, citing parsimonious yields of eight hectolitres per hectare for the Grenache in his Châteauneuf vineyards and a reduction in volume of his Lirac of over 50 percent. Such things make cash flow hard to predict, let alone manage; the prospect inspires a Gallic shrug and the observation that quality must be maintained, even with volumes which are far from profitable. This, it seems, has been achieved. His parting shot is to describe the wines as ‘rare – but great’. Even better than the La Dame Rousse, and easily one of the top wines of the appellation, the 2013 Lirac Cuvee de la Reine des Bois is made from equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, and will spend 12 months 70% in tank and 30% in older barrels. Possessing awesome notes of cassis, violets, licorice and crushed-rock-like minerality, this fabulous effort has full-bodied richness, layers of sweet fruit, and chewy, ripe tannin that keeps the finish going. Hats off to the Delorme brothers for this smoking effort.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

Twenty percent stems are added to this cuvée, which is made up of 80 percent Grenache, the balance shared between Syrah, Cinsault, Counoise and Mourvèdre. An impressive colour is matched by sweet blackberry and plum aromas and a palate where liquorice and spice provide an elegant foil to the fruit character, which is forward, rounded and long, all at the same time.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

The vines for this wine are located mainly in the lieux-dits of Chaillot and Les Reynards. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then matured in cask for 18 months. Stylish and feminine, the wine has a high-toned dark fruit and plush, expensive tannins; the perfume is memorable as with all great wines from this oft misunderstood appellation.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Albéric Mazoyer, the charismatic sidekick to Alain Voge, is positive about 2013: there was no hail in Cornas and the late growing cycle was actually beneficial in this, the warmest of the northern enclaves, concentrating flavour but eschewing excess of any kind. The results are as spectacular as the volumes are scant.