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Ready, but will keep,
Damien Vache blends Grenache (70 percent) and Syrah (30 percent) in this excellent cuvée, which is fermented in concrete and matured in old wood. A Vacqueyras archetype, Les Deux Monards marries dark fruit and spice, with distinctive notes of liquorice allied to a disarming sweetness on the finish. Drink 2016 to 2019.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Damien Vache compares 2013 to 2008 and to 2001: it is better than 2008 but, he admits, not quite as good as 2001. This seems about right, especially as 2001 is one of my favourite years over the last two decades, and therefore a hard act to follow. Irregular flowering and a late harvest were the key features here, as elsewhere. Minimal intervention and diligent aging have ensured the quality of the wine, which will give great pleasure in the short to medium term.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Damien Vache compares 2013 to 2008 and to 2001: it is better than 2008 but, he admits, not quite as good as 2001. This seems about right, especially as 2001 is one of my favourite years over the last two decades, and therefore a hard act to follow. Irregular flowering and a late harvest were the key features here, as elsewhere. Minimal intervention and diligent aging have ensured the quality of the wine, which will give great pleasure in the short to medium term.
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Drink now,
Baudelaire, we feel, would have approved of this evocatively named cuvée, the volumes of which have been radically cut in this late picked vintage. Sourced from steep vines just outside the lieu-dit of Tupins, on the southern frontier of Côte Rôtie, Les Fleurs de Mai is aged in tank only and delights in forward red-berry fruit flavours, aromatics of fresh raspberries and roses and a fresh generous texture which finishes with an eloquent flourish.
When I started buying Rhône wines a decade ago, there was one name, above all others, which commanded universal respect and adulation amongst producers and that was the name of Georges Vernay, known affectionately as Le Pape de Condrieu for his almost single –handed feat of rescuing this magnificent appellation from obsolescence. Indeed it became clear that not mentioning Domaine Georges Vernay when in the region could be like going to Jerusalem and not visiting the Church of The Holy Sepulchre, in other words a terrible mistake. Imagine our delight when the House agreed to work directly with Berry Bros and Rudd.
Today managed with brio by George’s daughter Christine and her husband Paul Ansellem, the domaine covers 10ha of Appellation Contrôlée vineyards and a similar area of Vin de Pays, in this case vineyards literally just outside the relevant AOC boundaries.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
When I started buying Rhône wines a decade ago, there was one name, above all others, which commanded universal respect and adulation amongst producers and that was the name of Georges Vernay, known affectionately as Le Pape de Condrieu for his almost single –handed feat of rescuing this magnificent appellation from obsolescence. Indeed it became clear that not mentioning Domaine Georges Vernay when in the region could be like going to Jerusalem and not visiting the Church of The Holy Sepulchre, in other words a terrible mistake. Imagine our delight when the House agreed to work directly with Berry Bros and Rudd.
Today managed with brio by George’s daughter Christine and her husband Paul Ansellem, the domaine covers 10ha of Appellation Contrôlée vineyards and a similar area of Vin de Pays, in this case vineyards literally just outside the relevant AOC boundaries.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
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Ready, but will keep,
Jean-Michels’ vineyards are just to the north of Tournon, and are suitably precarious and difficult to farm. Industry is more than rewarded by this most appealing example, fairly forward, as is the style of the vintage, but with no shortage of peppery red and black fruit at its heart. A cool , engaging finish completes the edifice, finely constructed and beautifully decorated.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
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Ready, but will keep,
Three specific sites have been favoured this year, and the different ages of barrique or demi-muid employed pre-assemblage just about justifies the name of the cuvée. A powerful wine with a fine tannin-acid equilibrium, the 2013 bears the hallmarks of low yield diligence and minute attention to detail.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
An unwelcome hailstorm, allied to the usual refrains about the late season and apparently delayed harvest, ensured that 2013 was not the easiest of years for Emmanuel. This, of course, has not dulled the spirit of a man who seems to maintain his youthful enthusiasm for all things vinous. His naturally inquisitive mind has now been refined by experience and his use of oak is less ambitious—no bad thing in an appellation where the primacy and purity of the fruit itself should always be key.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
An unwelcome hailstorm, allied to the usual refrains about the late season and apparently delayed harvest, ensured that 2013 was not the easiest of years for Emmanuel. This, of course, has not dulled the spirit of a man who seems to maintain his youthful enthusiasm for all things vinous. His naturally inquisitive mind has now been refined by experience and his use of oak is less ambitious—no bad thing in an appellation where the primacy and purity of the fruit itself should always be key.
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Ready, but will keep,
As always, an archetype of top quality Crozes- Hermitage, careless of the tricky vintage conditions it seems. Tapenade and crushed raspberry dominate the palate, which is fresh and generous at the same time.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
When he is not piloting himself and Jean- Michel Gerin to their joint venture in Priorat, the amiable Laurent Combier works hard, and with great success, to develop the international profile of Crozes-Hermitage. Experimentation in the winery, where vinification may take place in a variety of vessels, including concrete eggs, allied to a keen sense of the under-appreciated differences in terroir in the appellation, have ensured that his wines maintain their primacy. They are always ripe, fruity and balanced, as achieved in 2013 despite the hail and resulting low yields.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
When he is not piloting himself and Jean- Michel Gerin to their joint venture in Priorat, the amiable Laurent Combier works hard, and with great success, to develop the international profile of Crozes-Hermitage. Experimentation in the winery, where vinification may take place in a variety of vessels, including concrete eggs, allied to a keen sense of the under-appreciated differences in terroir in the appellation, have ensured that his wines maintain their primacy. They are always ripe, fruity and balanced, as achieved in 2013 despite the hail and resulting low yields.
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Drink now,
These St Jean de Muzols vineyards were spared the hail that struck to the east of the river, but the yields were still lower than usual. Thomas describes the wine, somewhat disingenuously, as ‘sophisticatedly rustic’ – a description that can only be fully understood, I wager, on tasting this excellent example.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Maxime Graillot and Thomas Schmittel make a very likeable team and, needless to say, very likeable wines. Their philosophy differs a little from that of Maxime’s father Alain, specifically in terms of destemming and racking, but they are pleasingly pragmatic on both fronts. The 2013 vintage, with its hail in Crozes-Hermitage on 9th July, was a year of small crops, more racking than usual and supple, concentrated wines, which were eventually picked by the 13th October.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Maxime Graillot and Thomas Schmittel make a very likeable team and, needless to say, very likeable wines. Their philosophy differs a little from that of Maxime’s father Alain, specifically in terms of destemming and racking, but they are pleasingly pragmatic on both fronts. The 2013 vintage, with its hail in Crozes-Hermitage on 9th July, was a year of small crops, more racking than usual and supple, concentrated wines, which were eventually picked by the 13th October.
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Ready, but will improve,
Located on the plateau above Malleval, these vines are over 30 years old and the wine is rich, spicy and wonderfully harmonious, with notes of crushed rock and ripe blackberry informing the palate.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.
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Drink now,
The granitic soils of Larnage are located in the north of Crozes and the wines here are less forward than those on the plains further south. This example seems to borrow the best of both styles, its attack being silky, with red fruit to the fore. The back of the palate however has gravitas and a soft spicy persistence.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman. Starting off the reds, the 2013 Crozes Hermitage has lots of peppery spice, mineral and black cherry nuances in its medium to light-bodied, quaffable personality.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman. Starting off the reds, the 2013 Crozes Hermitage has lots of peppery spice, mineral and black cherry nuances in its medium to light-bodied, quaffable personality.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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Drink now,
Maturation is shared between demi-muids and pièces, none of which are new. The signature redfruit ebullience is present and correct, with soft, spicy tannins adding to the appeal. Primary fruit dominates, pure and not simple.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
This vintage was not without its challenges for Jérôme: frost in May, hail in July and very low, uneconomical yields. A very late harvest has produced wines with low pHs, relatively low alcohol and very subtle phenolics. He likens the style to some of the wines made by his father Pierre in the 1980s. In warm years his wines can be very (although not over) ripe, so this redressing of nature’s balance is actually quite welcome, as evidenced by the quality of the finished wines.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
This vintage was not without its challenges for Jérôme: frost in May, hail in July and very low, uneconomical yields. A very late harvest has produced wines with low pHs, relatively low alcohol and very subtle phenolics. He likens the style to some of the wines made by his father Pierre in the 1980s. In warm years his wines can be very (although not over) ripe, so this redressing of nature’s balance is actually quite welcome, as evidenced by the quality of the finished wines.
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Still in the Ardèche, this is from old 70-year-old Serine, a venerable Syrah clone, grown on gneiss, with no sulphur dioxide added at all. The 2013 has impressive mineral-tinged black cherry fruit backed up by peppery notes. The palate is meaty and lively with raspberry and cherry fruit. Overall the impression is one of structure, Corinthian rather than Doric, and purity of intent.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The wines of Domaine de Pergaud are very well known to the cognoscenti of the Rhône Valley, perhaps best known under the name of their charismatic progenitor. Eric Texier, a nuclear engineer, decided to devote himself to reinvigorating the wines of the appellation Brézème, on the east side of the Rhône River, 30 kilometres south of Hermitage, with which it once shared an illustrious reputation and, it seems, a similar granitic soil structure. If this was not sufficiently difficult, he also took on some vines on the other side— of the river in the Ardèche département the AOP of St Julien en St Alban. Farming organically and making wines in the natural way, adding only a little sulphur at bottling, his has been not only to reawaken old appellations (one thinks of Seyssuel) but also to make wines in a more ‘traditional’ style, that is to say lighter and more elegant. He appears to have succeeded in both these aspirations.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The wines of Domaine de Pergaud are very well known to the cognoscenti of the Rhône Valley, perhaps best known under the name of their charismatic progenitor. Eric Texier, a nuclear engineer, decided to devote himself to reinvigorating the wines of the appellation Brézème, on the east side of the Rhône River, 30 kilometres south of Hermitage, with which it once shared an illustrious reputation and, it seems, a similar granitic soil structure. If this was not sufficiently difficult, he also took on some vines on the other side— of the river in the Ardèche département the AOP of St Julien en St Alban. Farming organically and making wines in the natural way, adding only a little sulphur at bottling, his has been not only to reawaken old appellations (one thinks of Seyssuel) but also to make wines in a more ‘traditional’ style, that is to say lighter and more elegant. He appears to have succeeded in both these aspirations.
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Ready, but will improve,
Cuminaille has been a long-standing Berry Bros. & Rudd listing, and was indeed one of M Gaillard’s first projects on leaving Vidal Fleury (then not owned by Guigal) in the late 1970s. The quality is as good as ever, with a relatively short cuvaison indicative of both the quality and power of the fruit itself, which sings of cassis, sloe and myrtle, with bay, cocoa and hints of dark chocolate in the wings.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The Medieval village of Malleval, perched high above the serpentine Rhône, provides a suitably lofty homestead for Pierre Gaillard, one of the most influential and highlyrespected vignerons in the valley. With his two daughters, son and wife all part of the business, this is clearly a family affair, its influence now keenly felt in Seyssuel just to the north, not to mention Collioure and Faugères in the Languedoc, where some excellent wines have broadened an already impressive portfolio. The smaller production 2013 Saint Joseph Clos de Cuminaille should be a step up over the traditional cuvee. It has rock-solid notes of black raspberry, crushed rocks, wild herbs and olive, as well as good underlying minerality. Medium-bodied, balanced, with good purity and an elegant feel, it should have 7-8 years of longevity, possibly more.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The Medieval village of Malleval, perched high above the serpentine Rhône, provides a suitably lofty homestead for Pierre Gaillard, one of the most influential and highlyrespected vignerons in the valley. With his two daughters, son and wife all part of the business, this is clearly a family affair, its influence now keenly felt in Seyssuel just to the north, not to mention Collioure and Faugères in the Languedoc, where some excellent wines have broadened an already impressive portfolio. The smaller production 2013 Saint Joseph Clos de Cuminaille should be a step up over the traditional cuvee. It has rock-solid notes of black raspberry, crushed rocks, wild herbs and olive, as well as good underlying minerality. Medium-bodied, balanced, with good purity and an elegant feel, it should have 7-8 years of longevity, possibly more.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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Ready, but will keep,
Lombard is sourced from vines near to the Cuilleron winery in Chavanay, where the Condrieu vineyards reluctantly cede to those of St Joseph. The soil does not lack for granite, however, and its aspect is suitably precarious. Made from 50-year-old Marsanne, the 2013 has notes of wax, quince and orchard fruit, and a salinity on the back palate which would do no disservice to a plate of red mullet or similar.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Dynamic and energetic, Yves sometimes gives the impression of trying too hard: there is so much activity and so many wines, why can’t the message be clearer? Well, my message is clear and it underlines the overall quality of the range, proved once again by a recent (late 2014) Decanter tasting which put M Cuilleron's Côte Rôtie on its own at the very top of the tree. Pragmatism over the hot topic of destemming and a general inclination to harvest late are cited as two cornerstones of the Cuilleron philosophy. Yves praises the equilibrium of his 2013 whites, and is pleased with both the colour and the tannic structure of his reds.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Dynamic and energetic, Yves sometimes gives the impression of trying too hard: there is so much activity and so many wines, why can’t the message be clearer? Well, my message is clear and it underlines the overall quality of the range, proved once again by a recent (late 2014) Decanter tasting which put M Cuilleron's Côte Rôtie on its own at the very top of the tree. Pragmatism over the hot topic of destemming and a general inclination to harvest late are cited as two cornerstones of the Cuilleron philosophy. Yves praises the equilibrium of his 2013 whites, and is pleased with both the colour and the tannic structure of his reds.
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Ready, but will keep,
The Durand late-harvest philosophy was well suited to 2013 it seems. The granitic slopes behind the village include six hectares of Durand vines, the source of this powerful wine, its notes of dark chocolate and cerise complemented by a seam of elegant acidity and persuasive but not overwhelming tannins.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Relatively new to our list, Domaine Durand is based just south of Mauves in the village of Châteaubourg, their ancient cellar located virtually underneath the ruins of the eponymous castle. The loquacious Joël advises that 2013 was complicated, but ultimately successful, with vines that have reached and passed their 25th year, that is to say the significant majority of those under his ownership, faring especially well. Deeper and richer than the Les Coteaux, the 2013 Saint Joseph Cuvee Lautaret has similar notes of olive tapenade, cassis, black raspberry and gamey meat. Medium to full-bodied, ripe and textured, with juicy acidity, it too should shine for 5-7 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Relatively new to our list, Domaine Durand is based just south of Mauves in the village of Châteaubourg, their ancient cellar located virtually underneath the ruins of the eponymous castle. The loquacious Joël advises that 2013 was complicated, but ultimately successful, with vines that have reached and passed their 25th year, that is to say the significant majority of those under his ownership, faring especially well. Deeper and richer than the Les Coteaux, the 2013 Saint Joseph Cuvee Lautaret has similar notes of olive tapenade, cassis, black raspberry and gamey meat. Medium to full-bodied, ripe and textured, with juicy acidity, it too should shine for 5-7 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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Ready, but will improve,
New to our list, this is a rather special wine, sourced – as the name suggests – from plots in the north of the appellation, in Gervans to be precise, where the soil is dominated by loess and gneiss. The aspect has a northerly inclination too, affording a certain rigour to the wine, which has marked peppery acidity, dark fruit and a powerful finish worthy of near neighbours on the hill of Hermitage itself.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
When he is not piloting himself and Jean- Michel Gerin to their joint venture in Priorat, the amiable Laurent Combier works hard, and with great success, to develop the international profile of Crozes-Hermitage. Experimentation in the winery, where vinification may take place in a variety of vessels, including concrete eggs, allied to a keen sense of the under-appreciated differences in terroir in the appellation, have ensured that his wines maintain their primacy. They are always ripe, fruity and balanced, as achieved in 2013 despite the hail and resulting low yields.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
When he is not piloting himself and Jean- Michel Gerin to their joint venture in Priorat, the amiable Laurent Combier works hard, and with great success, to develop the international profile of Crozes-Hermitage. Experimentation in the winery, where vinification may take place in a variety of vessels, including concrete eggs, allied to a keen sense of the under-appreciated differences in terroir in the appellation, have ensured that his wines maintain their primacy. They are always ripe, fruity and balanced, as achieved in 2013 despite the hail and resulting low yields.
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Domaine Coursodon has long been one of the leading St Joseph wine estates. The youthful but intelligent Jérôme Coursodon is keen to emphasise the individuality and personality of this appellation. In St Joseph the watchwords are elegance, aromatic refinement and poise on the palate. Jérôme fully subscribes to such attributes, crafting wines with class and perfect balance.
This is a very pure and honest expression of pure Marsanne, with no oak intervention and a relatively early bottling. A couple of years down the line and the zesty citric notes have taken on a rounder, softer texture with honeysuckle and even verbena in evidence. A pleasingly challenging bitter-sweet note tickles the back palate as it should always do with top-notch Marsanne.
This is a very pure and honest expression of pure Marsanne, with no oak intervention and a relatively early bottling. A couple of years down the line and the zesty citric notes have taken on a rounder, softer texture with honeysuckle and even verbena in evidence. A pleasingly challenging bitter-sweet note tickles the back palate as it should always do with top-notch Marsanne.
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Ready, but will keep,
Granite slopes behind the key villages of Mauves, Glun and Tournon are the source of this soft and supremely elegant St Joseph, which has been aged for 14 months in five- to six- year-old barrels. Cassis and sun-dried herbs inform the palate which is opulent yet impressively light on its feet.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The news from Domaine du Tunnel is that the eponymous (disused railway) tunnel has almost been renovated by M Robert and will house a naturally cool—in both senses of the word—bottling cellar and tasting room, up in the hills above St Péray. This charming and very welcoming family continue to make great wines and were lucky enough to avoid hail in 2013; the resulting wines are excellent, with the whites boasting freshness and definition while the reds are pleasingly forward. Looking at the wines from barrel, the 2013 Saint Joseph has a terrific perfume of violets, wild herbs, spring flowers and pepper-laced purple fruits. It’s medium-bodied, supple and polished, with impressive purity. It has some tannin emerging on the finish, but I suspect these will fall away once in bottle. It should drink nicely for 4-6 years after release.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The news from Domaine du Tunnel is that the eponymous (disused railway) tunnel has almost been renovated by M Robert and will house a naturally cool—in both senses of the word—bottling cellar and tasting room, up in the hills above St Péray. This charming and very welcoming family continue to make great wines and were lucky enough to avoid hail in 2013; the resulting wines are excellent, with the whites boasting freshness and definition while the reds are pleasingly forward. Looking at the wines from barrel, the 2013 Saint Joseph has a terrific perfume of violets, wild herbs, spring flowers and pepper-laced purple fruits. It’s medium-bodied, supple and polished, with impressive purity. It has some tannin emerging on the finish, but I suspect these will fall away once in bottle. It should drink nicely for 4-6 years after release.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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Ready, but will improve,
Christine proves once again that she is more than proficient with red as well as white grapes. The vines are located on the granitic slopes behind Chavanay in the north of the appellation. This 100 percent Syrah exhibits plenty of red fruit charm, but with polished, ‘proper’ tannins from one-year-old barriques, and a fresh, hedgerow character, with hints of crushed rock, bay leaf and sousbois on the finish.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christine Vernay is pleased by the 2013s and has clearly relished the challenges of the vintage. The cold start allowed the vines to rest properly and it was therefore only reasonable that they had to work a little harder at the other end of the season, the longer growing cycle engendering complexity and finely defined acidity – the latter especially important with Viognier. No one makes better Viognier in the world, as these wines once again demonstrate.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christine Vernay is pleased by the 2013s and has clearly relished the challenges of the vintage. The cold start allowed the vines to rest properly and it was therefore only reasonable that they had to work a little harder at the other end of the season, the longer growing cycle engendering complexity and finely defined acidity – the latter especially important with Viognier. No one makes better Viognier in the world, as these wines once again demonstrate.
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François Villard has grown his tiny wine domaine from four to seven hectares and still produces a miniscule quantity of highly allocated bottlings. Referred to by Robert Parker as one of the “stars” of the Northern Rhône, François also acquired a small parcel in Côte-Rôtie and a few hectares in St Joseph. Formerly a chef, François brings his complex palette to the winery to produce wines of power and grace that age for years. The results are unrivalled.
An equal blend of Marsanne and Roussanne, the Mairlant is aged in 40 percent new Burgundian barrels and is suitably spicy, with an attractive undercurrent of poached pear, beeswax and wild honey: an archetype of modern white St Joseph.
An equal blend of Marsanne and Roussanne, the Mairlant is aged in 40 percent new Burgundian barrels and is suitably spicy, with an attractive undercurrent of poached pear, beeswax and wild honey: an archetype of modern white St Joseph.
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Ready, but will improve,
Domaine Montirius is one of the stars of the Gigondas appellation, and deservedly so, judged by the care afforded to its wines by Christine and Eric Saurel. They represent the fifth generation to work this 57-hectare domaine. Low-yielding old vines on optimal soil provide the perfect raw materials, and a careful three-week maceration allows the full expression of the terroir. Their patient methodology is rewarded with superb expressions of terroir.
Domaine Montirius is one of the stars of the appellation, and deservedly so, judged by the care afforded to its wines by Christine and Eric Saurel. They represent the fifth generation to work this 57-hectare domaine. Low-yielding old vines on optimal soil provide the perfect raw materials, and a careful three-week maceration allows the full expression of the terroir. Their patient methodology is rewarded with superb expressions of terroir.
Similarly styled, the 2013 Gigondas Confidentiel has high quality aromas and flavors of black raspberry, cassis and leafy herbs, medium to full-bodied richness and a rounded, supple, sweetly fruited style that’s already hard to resist. I love the purity here, and it has fine tannin that frame the finish, all suggesting it will evolve gracefully. Made from 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre, it should drink nicely through 2023.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 (Part 2) Jan 2015
Domaine Montirius is one of the stars of the appellation, and deservedly so, judged by the care afforded to its wines by Christine and Eric Saurel. They represent the fifth generation to work this 57-hectare domaine. Low-yielding old vines on optimal soil provide the perfect raw materials, and a careful three-week maceration allows the full expression of the terroir. Their patient methodology is rewarded with superb expressions of terroir.
Similarly styled, the 2013 Gigondas Confidentiel has high quality aromas and flavors of black raspberry, cassis and leafy herbs, medium to full-bodied richness and a rounded, supple, sweetly fruited style that’s already hard to resist. I love the purity here, and it has fine tannin that frame the finish, all suggesting it will evolve gracefully. Made from 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre, it should drink nicely through 2023.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 (Part 2) Jan 2015
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Ready, but will improve,
Les Empreintes is a blend of 10 different parcels, most of which are located in and around the lieu-dit of Le Chaillot, which is just to the north of the village. Thirty percent of the stems are maintained but the overall style is velvety and modern. Blackberries and bay leaf inform the nose and then the palate is savoury, slightly oily, with a macerated fruit texture and hints of black tea and liquorice at the back of the mouth. The tannins are ripe and powerful, but perfectly correct for a wine with this type of structure.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Relatively new to our list, Domaine Durand is based just south of Mauves in the village of Châteaubourg, their ancient cellar located virtually underneath the ruins of the eponymous castle. The loquacious Joël advises that 2013 was complicated, but ultimately successful, with vines that have reached and passed their 25th year, that is to say the significant majority of those under his ownership, faring especially well. Another beauty, the 2013 Cornas Empreintes comes from slightly older vines and is destemmed, vinified in concrete tanks, and aged in 20% new barrels. Dark, inky black, it gives up decadent dark fruits, medium to full-bodied concentration and sweet tannin. For a cooler vintage, the texture here is shockingly rich and polished. As with the Prémices, it should drink well on release yet age gracefully.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Relatively new to our list, Domaine Durand is based just south of Mauves in the village of Châteaubourg, their ancient cellar located virtually underneath the ruins of the eponymous castle. The loquacious Joël advises that 2013 was complicated, but ultimately successful, with vines that have reached and passed their 25th year, that is to say the significant majority of those under his ownership, faring especially well. Another beauty, the 2013 Cornas Empreintes comes from slightly older vines and is destemmed, vinified in concrete tanks, and aged in 20% new barrels. Dark, inky black, it gives up decadent dark fruits, medium to full-bodied concentration and sweet tannin. For a cooler vintage, the texture here is shockingly rich and polished. As with the Prémices, it should drink well on release yet age gracefully.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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For laying down,
The vines for this wine are located mainly in the lieux-dits of Chaillot and Les Reynards. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then matured in cask for 18 months. Stylish and feminine, the wine has a high-toned dark fruit and plush, expensive tannins; the perfume is memorable as with all great wines from this oft misunderstood appellation.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Albéric Mazoyer, the charismatic sidekick to Alain Voge, is positive about 2013: there was no hail in Cornas and the late growing cycle was actually beneficial in this, the warmest of the northern enclaves, concentrating flavour but eschewing excess of any kind. The results are as spectacular as the volumes are scant.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Albéric Mazoyer, the charismatic sidekick to Alain Voge, is positive about 2013: there was no hail in Cornas and the late growing cycle was actually beneficial in this, the warmest of the northern enclaves, concentrating flavour but eschewing excess of any kind. The results are as spectacular as the volumes are scant.
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Ready, but will keep,
Granitic slopes behind Mauves provide the fruit for this excellent St Joseph;, a gift, or similar, from Emmanuel’s father-in-law, Bernard Faurie. The Faurie genius is evidenced in a wine of tense, stony acidity and impressive, peppery power, with crushed— rock tannins and crunchy fruit providing impressive structural support.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
An unwelcome hailstorm, allied to the usual refrains about the late season and apparently delayed harvest, ensured that 2013 was not the easiest of years for Emmanuel. This, of course, has not dulled the spirit of a man who seems to maintain his youthful enthusiasm for all things vinous. His naturally inquisitive mind has now been refined by experience and his use of oak is less ambitious—no bad thing in an appellation where the primacy and purity of the fruit itself should always be key.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
An unwelcome hailstorm, allied to the usual refrains about the late season and apparently delayed harvest, ensured that 2013 was not the easiest of years for Emmanuel. This, of course, has not dulled the spirit of a man who seems to maintain his youthful enthusiasm for all things vinous. His naturally inquisitive mind has now been refined by experience and his use of oak is less ambitious—no bad thing in an appellation where the primacy and purity of the fruit itself should always be key.
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A very late plot, understandably given its imperious 300-metre location, Les Eygats is located on steep slopes of decomposed granite high above the village of Cornas. Damien Brisset is delighted with the results in 2013, pure and profound being the words he uses, which are pretty similar in English. Ageing for 14 months sees 10 percent new oak, but all the vitality in the wine comes from the sheer quality of the Syrah grapes.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here.
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Ready, but will improve,
Stéphane is confident that Seyssuel will eventually get its own Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, although not, it seems, before having to pass through a stage as a humble Côtes du Rhône. No matter; he has done more than anyone to raise the profile of these rediscovered ancient vines. Their soils resemble Côte Blonde and their aspect approximates that of Hermitage. The happy coincidence of these features has fathered a wine of aromatic harmony and great latent power.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.
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For laying down,
There is 10 percent each of Cinsault and Syrah in this cuvée; the wine is charming and subtle with floral aromatics and hints of lavender and a Provençal marketplace.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Isabelle Ferrando is fortunate in that her proclivity for self-publicity chimes very well with the good general publicity that she has been receiving of late from respected international commentators. She is open about the difficulties of 2013, but pleased with the overall results, which required even more patience than usual, with October taking up the redemptive role traditionally reserved for September. The quality of her wines is underwritten by the fact that each individual cuvée is demonstrably different, and that with her Clairette she has made one of the greatest white wines in the region. More Burgundian in style, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve Auguste Favier (70% Grenache and Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvedre) has bright acidity in its medium-bodied, nicely concentrated frame. Giving up notions of spring flowers, cassis, forest floor and toasted spice, it should benefit from short-term cellaring.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Isabelle Ferrando is fortunate in that her proclivity for self-publicity chimes very well with the good general publicity that she has been receiving of late from respected international commentators. She is open about the difficulties of 2013, but pleased with the overall results, which required even more patience than usual, with October taking up the redemptive role traditionally reserved for September. The quality of her wines is underwritten by the fact that each individual cuvée is demonstrably different, and that with her Clairette she has made one of the greatest white wines in the region. More Burgundian in style, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve Auguste Favier (70% Grenache and Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvedre) has bright acidity in its medium-bodied, nicely concentrated frame. Giving up notions of spring flowers, cassis, forest floor and toasted spice, it should benefit from short-term cellaring.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
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Ready, but will improve,
The relative shift in the balance of power from Grenache to Syrah and Mourvèdre has resulted in a 2013 that is darkly coloured, rich and softly spicy. The trademark Nerthe polish is by no means absent, but there is perhaps a little more black fruit than sometimes, and a more authoritative finish.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christian Voeux is better qualified than most when he compares 2013 to the most lauded vintages of the late 20th century. Before taking on the prize job at La Nerthe five years ago, Christian was the highly influential winemaker at Château Mont- Redon for 25 years. The prospect of low yields does not rule out ‘vendanges verte’, he muses, in the same way that cooler temperatures do not mean that the wines will be lacking in structure—QED. A superb 2013, La Nerthe’s classic Châteauneuf du Pape exhibits ample ripe blackberry, sweet cherries, licorice, new leather and spice. Made from 43% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 22% Mourvedre and the balance Cinsault, it spent 12 months in close to equal parts small barrel and larger foudre. Enjoy this medium-bodied, supple, elegant and downright pretty Châteauneuf over the coming decade.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christian Voeux is better qualified than most when he compares 2013 to the most lauded vintages of the late 20th century. Before taking on the prize job at La Nerthe five years ago, Christian was the highly influential winemaker at Château Mont- Redon for 25 years. The prospect of low yields does not rule out ‘vendanges verte’, he muses, in the same way that cooler temperatures do not mean that the wines will be lacking in structure—QED. A superb 2013, La Nerthe’s classic Châteauneuf du Pape exhibits ample ripe blackberry, sweet cherries, licorice, new leather and spice. Made from 43% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 22% Mourvedre and the balance Cinsault, it spent 12 months in close to equal parts small barrel and larger foudre. Enjoy this medium-bodied, supple, elegant and downright pretty Châteauneuf over the coming decade.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
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Ready, but will improve,
Tasting the various barrels before the final assemblage really underlines the difference between the so-called Blonde and Brune vineyards, the former softer, finer and more elegant, the latter with sinewy power and ageing potential. Beton and Viallière are two key vineyards in the respective zones. The assembled whole, of course, is greater than the sum of its parts, justly celebrated as one of the leading examples in the appellation.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The Medieval village of Malleval, perched high above the serpentine Rhône, provides a suitably lofty homestead for Pierre Gaillard, one of the most influential and highlyrespected vignerons in the valley. With his two daughters, son and wife all part of the business, this is clearly a family affair, its influence now keenly felt in Seyssuel just to the north, not to mention Collioure and Faugères in the Languedoc, where some excellent wines have broadened an already impressive portfolio. I thought all three of the Côte Rôtie barrel samples were outstanding. Leading off, the classic 2013 Côte Rôtie incorporates a full 10% Viognier, and it shows, with lots of peach, violets and spring flower-like qualities blending nicely with sweet Syrah driven fruit. Medium-bodied, upfront and ready to go, it’s no light weight and has enough concentration to evolve nicely through 2023.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The Medieval village of Malleval, perched high above the serpentine Rhône, provides a suitably lofty homestead for Pierre Gaillard, one of the most influential and highlyrespected vignerons in the valley. With his two daughters, son and wife all part of the business, this is clearly a family affair, its influence now keenly felt in Seyssuel just to the north, not to mention Collioure and Faugères in the Languedoc, where some excellent wines have broadened an already impressive portfolio. I thought all three of the Côte Rôtie barrel samples were outstanding. Leading off, the classic 2013 Côte Rôtie incorporates a full 10% Viognier, and it shows, with lots of peach, violets and spring flower-like qualities blending nicely with sweet Syrah driven fruit. Medium-bodied, upfront and ready to go, it’s no light weight and has enough concentration to evolve nicely through 2023.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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Ready, but will improve,
Michel Chapoutier is now the president of Inter-Rhône, which, we suggest, is very good news for Inter-Rhône, such is his energy and appetite for lively debate. The enormous new winery next to the motorway has his name on the side in such large letters that it is probably visible from the moon, let alone the fast lane of the A7. But beyond the bluff exterior, there is an engaging personality, a very capable businessman and, most importantly by far, a superb winemaker.
This poetically named white is made from Marsanne vines located primarily in the eastern sector of Hermitage, where there is more alluvium in the soil. The 2013 sings a very pleasing tune, with a fine aromatic descant and a chorus of approval from those who enjoy the enigmatic characteristics of this underrated variety.
Always a serious value, the 2013 Hermitage Chante Alouette shows the focused, pure and mineral-laced style of the vintage, yet still packs plenty of fruit. Giving up ample tangerine, buttered citrus, almond and mineral-water qualities, it's medium to full-bodied, has excellent richness and a beautifully balanced, pure, clean feel. Drink it over the coming decade or more.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
This poetically named white is made from Marsanne vines located primarily in the eastern sector of Hermitage, where there is more alluvium in the soil. The 2013 sings a very pleasing tune, with a fine aromatic descant and a chorus of approval from those who enjoy the enigmatic characteristics of this underrated variety.
Always a serious value, the 2013 Hermitage Chante Alouette shows the focused, pure and mineral-laced style of the vintage, yet still packs plenty of fruit. Giving up ample tangerine, buttered citrus, almond and mineral-water qualities, it's medium to full-bodied, has excellent richness and a beautifully balanced, pure, clean feel. Drink it over the coming decade or more.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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Ready, but will keep,
As with most of Stéphane’s wines, the ‘brand’ name is far from inappropriate. Roussanne suits barrelageing, as here, where it has had eight months, with regular battonage. However the resulting wine is both pure and focused, with poached pear notes and hints of crème brûlée. A little patience will allow nuances of almond, nougat and lemongrass to come through: all in all, a very promising Roussanne.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
A new father in 2014, Stéphane is pleased with his Syrah in 2013, and also the fact that he is progressing towards full Demeter (biodynamic) accreditation. He’s clearly not afraid of hard work. He describes the 2013 wines, with a whiff of Gallic contradiction as ‘fine yet concentrated’, citing an almost Burgundian elegance of texture and making the comparison-somewhat unusually-to the 2000. Possessing a richer, more layered and ripe profile over the classic white, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Roussanne is 100% of the variety and spent eight months in barrel, on lees. It boasts beautiful purity and freshness, as well as notes of poached pear, apple, brioche and mint. This is followed by a medium-bodied white that has a crisp, well-defined and edgy feel, good concentration and ample length. I’d drink bottles over the coming 3-4 years, but it will hold and evolve for longer.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
A new father in 2014, Stéphane is pleased with his Syrah in 2013, and also the fact that he is progressing towards full Demeter (biodynamic) accreditation. He’s clearly not afraid of hard work. He describes the 2013 wines, with a whiff of Gallic contradiction as ‘fine yet concentrated’, citing an almost Burgundian elegance of texture and making the comparison-somewhat unusually-to the 2000. Possessing a richer, more layered and ripe profile over the classic white, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Roussanne is 100% of the variety and spent eight months in barrel, on lees. It boasts beautiful purity and freshness, as well as notes of poached pear, apple, brioche and mint. This is followed by a medium-bodied white that has a crisp, well-defined and edgy feel, good concentration and ample length. I’d drink bottles over the coming 3-4 years, but it will hold and evolve for longer.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
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Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Domaines Durban and Bernardins are the two leading producers of Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, but made in completely contrasting styles and both worthy of inclusion here. Durban is located, in every sense, at the top of the village, its guiding principles being elegance and harmony of flavour. Although technically something of a misnomer, the phrase ‘Vin Doux Naturel’ seems most appropriate here.