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Domaine Montirius,
Ready, but will keep,
Unusually the Gigondas brace at Montirius were bottled before their Vacqueyras siblings this year, but they certainly do not want for structure. The fruit is darker and more persistent in this cuvée than sometimes, yet the ensemble is harmonious, the child of a doting biodynamic regime. As usual the blend favours Grenache over Mourvèdre, in a ratio of four to one. Drink 2017 to 2020.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Justine Saurel now works in the winery at Montirius, helping her parents Eric and Christine, and no doubt adding ideas from her winemaking sojourn in New Zealand. Christine describes the wines of 2013 as having ‘la concentration délicate’, which reminds me of the old Mitterand strapline of ‘la force tranquille’; be that as it may, it accurately describes the wines in a year where volumes were low but quality is high. Moulin
As to the 2013s, I was able to taste the two Gigondas releases, both of which were solid. Starting with the 2013 Terre des Aines, it’s a pretty, fruity, forward and supple effort that gives up lots of blueberry, blackberry, violets and hints of leafy herbs in its delicious, hard to resist style. Drink it over the coming 4-6 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 (Part 2) Jan 2015
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Justine Saurel now works in the winery at Montirius, helping her parents Eric and Christine, and no doubt adding ideas from her winemaking sojourn in New Zealand. Christine describes the wines of 2013 as having ‘la concentration délicate’, which reminds me of the old Mitterand strapline of ‘la force tranquille’; be that as it may, it accurately describes the wines in a year where volumes were low but quality is high. Moulin
As to the 2013s, I was able to taste the two Gigondas releases, both of which were solid. Starting with the 2013 Terre des Aines, it’s a pretty, fruity, forward and supple effort that gives up lots of blueberry, blackberry, violets and hints of leafy herbs in its delicious, hard to resist style. Drink it over the coming 4-6 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 (Part 2) Jan 2015
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£19.75
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Domaine Combier,
Ready, but will keep,
As always, an archetype of top quality Crozes- Hermitage, careless of the tricky vintage conditions it seems. Tapenade and crushed raspberry dominate the palate, which is fresh and generous at the same time.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
When he is not piloting himself and Jean- Michel Gerin to their joint venture in Priorat, the amiable Laurent Combier works hard, and with great success, to develop the international profile of Crozes-Hermitage. Experimentation in the winery, where vinification may take place in a variety of vessels, including concrete eggs, allied to a keen sense of the under-appreciated differences in terroir in the appellation, have ensured that his wines maintain their primacy. They are always ripe, fruity and balanced, as achieved in 2013 despite the hail and resulting low yields.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
When he is not piloting himself and Jean- Michel Gerin to their joint venture in Priorat, the amiable Laurent Combier works hard, and with great success, to develop the international profile of Crozes-Hermitage. Experimentation in the winery, where vinification may take place in a variety of vessels, including concrete eggs, allied to a keen sense of the under-appreciated differences in terroir in the appellation, have ensured that his wines maintain their primacy. They are always ripe, fruity and balanced, as achieved in 2013 despite the hail and resulting low yields.
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Domaine Stephane Ogier,
Ready, but will improve,
Located on the plateau above Malleval, these vines are over 30 years old and the wine is rich, spicy and wonderfully harmonious, with notes of crushed rock and ripe blackberry informing the palate.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.
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Domaine Coursodon,
Drink now,
Maturation is shared between demi-muids and pièces, none of which are new. The signature redfruit ebullience is present and correct, with soft, spicy tannins adding to the appeal. Primary fruit dominates, pure and not simple.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
This vintage was not without its challenges for Jérôme: frost in May, hail in July and very low, uneconomical yields. A very late harvest has produced wines with low pHs, relatively low alcohol and very subtle phenolics. He likens the style to some of the wines made by his father Pierre in the 1980s. In warm years his wines can be very (although not over) ripe, so this redressing of nature’s balance is actually quite welcome, as evidenced by the quality of the finished wines.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
This vintage was not without its challenges for Jérôme: frost in May, hail in July and very low, uneconomical yields. A very late harvest has produced wines with low pHs, relatively low alcohol and very subtle phenolics. He likens the style to some of the wines made by his father Pierre in the 1980s. In warm years his wines can be very (although not over) ripe, so this redressing of nature’s balance is actually quite welcome, as evidenced by the quality of the finished wines.
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Eric Texier,
Drink now,
Still in the Ardèche, this is from old 70-year-old Serine, a venerable Syrah clone, grown on gneiss, with no sulphur dioxide added at all. The 2013 has impressive mineral-tinged black cherry fruit backed up by peppery notes. The palate is meaty and lively with raspberry and cherry fruit. Overall the impression is one of structure, Corinthian rather than Doric, and purity of intent.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The wines of Domaine de Pergaud are very well known to the cognoscenti of the Rhône Valley, perhaps best known under the name of their charismatic progenitor. Eric Texier, a nuclear engineer, decided to devote himself to reinvigorating the wines of the appellation Brézème, on the east side of the Rhône River, 30 kilometres south of Hermitage, with which it once shared an illustrious reputation and, it seems, a similar granitic soil structure. If this was not sufficiently difficult, he also took on some vines on the other side— of the river in the Ardèche département the AOP of St Julien en St Alban. Farming organically and making wines in the natural way, adding only a little sulphur at bottling, his has been not only to reawaken old appellations (one thinks of Seyssuel) but also to make wines in a more ‘traditional’ style, that is to say lighter and more elegant. He appears to have succeeded in both these aspirations.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The wines of Domaine de Pergaud are very well known to the cognoscenti of the Rhône Valley, perhaps best known under the name of their charismatic progenitor. Eric Texier, a nuclear engineer, decided to devote himself to reinvigorating the wines of the appellation Brézème, on the east side of the Rhône River, 30 kilometres south of Hermitage, with which it once shared an illustrious reputation and, it seems, a similar granitic soil structure. If this was not sufficiently difficult, he also took on some vines on the other side— of the river in the Ardèche département the AOP of St Julien en St Alban. Farming organically and making wines in the natural way, adding only a little sulphur at bottling, his has been not only to reawaken old appellations (one thinks of Seyssuel) but also to make wines in a more ‘traditional’ style, that is to say lighter and more elegant. He appears to have succeeded in both these aspirations.
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Domaine Combier,
Ready, but will improve,
New to our list, this is a rather special wine, sourced – as the name suggests – from plots in the north of the appellation, in Gervans to be precise, where the soil is dominated by loess and gneiss. The aspect has a northerly inclination too, affording a certain rigour to the wine, which has marked peppery acidity, dark fruit and a powerful finish worthy of near neighbours on the hill of Hermitage itself.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
When he is not piloting himself and Jean- Michel Gerin to their joint venture in Priorat, the amiable Laurent Combier works hard, and with great success, to develop the international profile of Crozes-Hermitage. Experimentation in the winery, where vinification may take place in a variety of vessels, including concrete eggs, allied to a keen sense of the under-appreciated differences in terroir in the appellation, have ensured that his wines maintain their primacy. They are always ripe, fruity and balanced, as achieved in 2013 despite the hail and resulting low yields.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
When he is not piloting himself and Jean- Michel Gerin to their joint venture in Priorat, the amiable Laurent Combier works hard, and with great success, to develop the international profile of Crozes-Hermitage. Experimentation in the winery, where vinification may take place in a variety of vessels, including concrete eggs, allied to a keen sense of the under-appreciated differences in terroir in the appellation, have ensured that his wines maintain their primacy. They are always ripe, fruity and balanced, as achieved in 2013 despite the hail and resulting low yields.
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£26.95
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Domaine Coursodon,
Drink now,
Domaine Coursodon has long been one of the leading St Joseph wine estates. The youthful but intelligent Jérôme Coursodon is keen to emphasise the individuality and personality of this appellation. In St Joseph the watchwords are elegance, aromatic refinement and poise on the palate. Jérôme fully subscribes to such attributes, crafting wines with class and perfect balance.
This is a very pure and honest expression of pure Marsanne, with no oak intervention and a relatively early bottling. A couple of years down the line and the zesty citric notes have taken on a rounder, softer texture with honeysuckle and even verbena in evidence. A pleasingly challenging bitter-sweet note tickles the back palate as it should always do with top-notch Marsanne.
This is a very pure and honest expression of pure Marsanne, with no oak intervention and a relatively early bottling. A couple of years down the line and the zesty citric notes have taken on a rounder, softer texture with honeysuckle and even verbena in evidence. A pleasingly challenging bitter-sweet note tickles the back palate as it should always do with top-notch Marsanne.
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Domaine Du Tunnel,
Ready, but will keep,
Granite slopes behind the key villages of Mauves, Glun and Tournon are the source of this soft and supremely elegant St Joseph, which has been aged for 14 months in five- to six- year-old barrels. Cassis and sun-dried herbs inform the palate which is opulent yet impressively light on its feet.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The news from Domaine du Tunnel is that the eponymous (disused railway) tunnel has almost been renovated by M Robert and will house a naturally cool—in both senses of the word—bottling cellar and tasting room, up in the hills above St Péray. This charming and very welcoming family continue to make great wines and were lucky enough to avoid hail in 2013; the resulting wines are excellent, with the whites boasting freshness and definition while the reds are pleasingly forward. Looking at the wines from barrel, the 2013 Saint Joseph has a terrific perfume of violets, wild herbs, spring flowers and pepper-laced purple fruits. It’s medium-bodied, supple and polished, with impressive purity. It has some tannin emerging on the finish, but I suspect these will fall away once in bottle. It should drink nicely for 4-6 years after release.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The news from Domaine du Tunnel is that the eponymous (disused railway) tunnel has almost been renovated by M Robert and will house a naturally cool—in both senses of the word—bottling cellar and tasting room, up in the hills above St Péray. This charming and very welcoming family continue to make great wines and were lucky enough to avoid hail in 2013; the resulting wines are excellent, with the whites boasting freshness and definition while the reds are pleasingly forward. Looking at the wines from barrel, the 2013 Saint Joseph has a terrific perfume of violets, wild herbs, spring flowers and pepper-laced purple fruits. It’s medium-bodied, supple and polished, with impressive purity. It has some tannin emerging on the finish, but I suspect these will fall away once in bottle. It should drink nicely for 4-6 years after release.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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Domaine Georges Vernay,
Ready, but will improve,
Christine proves once again that she is more than proficient with red as well as white grapes. The vines are located on the granitic slopes behind Chavanay in the north of the appellation. This 100 percent Syrah exhibits plenty of red fruit charm, but with polished, ‘proper’ tannins from one-year-old barriques, and a fresh, hedgerow character, with hints of crushed rock, bay leaf and sousbois on the finish.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christine Vernay is pleased by the 2013s and has clearly relished the challenges of the vintage. The cold start allowed the vines to rest properly and it was therefore only reasonable that they had to work a little harder at the other end of the season, the longer growing cycle engendering complexity and finely defined acidity – the latter especially important with Viognier. No one makes better Viognier in the world, as these wines once again demonstrate.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christine Vernay is pleased by the 2013s and has clearly relished the challenges of the vintage. The cold start allowed the vines to rest properly and it was therefore only reasonable that they had to work a little harder at the other end of the season, the longer growing cycle engendering complexity and finely defined acidity – the latter especially important with Viognier. No one makes better Viognier in the world, as these wines once again demonstrate.
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Domaine Eric & Joel Durand,
Ready, but will improve,
Les Empreintes is a blend of 10 different parcels, most of which are located in and around the lieu-dit of Le Chaillot, which is just to the north of the village. Thirty percent of the stems are maintained but the overall style is velvety and modern. Blackberries and bay leaf inform the nose and then the palate is savoury, slightly oily, with a macerated fruit texture and hints of black tea and liquorice at the back of the mouth. The tannins are ripe and powerful, but perfectly correct for a wine with this type of structure.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Relatively new to our list, Domaine Durand is based just south of Mauves in the village of Châteaubourg, their ancient cellar located virtually underneath the ruins of the eponymous castle. The loquacious Joël advises that 2013 was complicated, but ultimately successful, with vines that have reached and passed their 25th year, that is to say the significant majority of those under his ownership, faring especially well. Another beauty, the 2013 Cornas Empreintes comes from slightly older vines and is destemmed, vinified in concrete tanks, and aged in 20% new barrels. Dark, inky black, it gives up decadent dark fruits, medium to full-bodied concentration and sweet tannin. For a cooler vintage, the texture here is shockingly rich and polished. As with the Prémices, it should drink well on release yet age gracefully.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Relatively new to our list, Domaine Durand is based just south of Mauves in the village of Châteaubourg, their ancient cellar located virtually underneath the ruins of the eponymous castle. The loquacious Joël advises that 2013 was complicated, but ultimately successful, with vines that have reached and passed their 25th year, that is to say the significant majority of those under his ownership, faring especially well. Another beauty, the 2013 Cornas Empreintes comes from slightly older vines and is destemmed, vinified in concrete tanks, and aged in 20% new barrels. Dark, inky black, it gives up decadent dark fruits, medium to full-bodied concentration and sweet tannin. For a cooler vintage, the texture here is shockingly rich and polished. As with the Prémices, it should drink well on release yet age gracefully.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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£355.80
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Domaine Alain Voge,
For laying down,
The vines for this wine are located mainly in the lieux-dits of Chaillot and Les Reynards. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then matured in cask for 18 months. Stylish and feminine, the wine has a high-toned dark fruit and plush, expensive tannins; the perfume is memorable as with all great wines from this oft misunderstood appellation.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Albéric Mazoyer, the charismatic sidekick to Alain Voge, is positive about 2013: there was no hail in Cornas and the late growing cycle was actually beneficial in this, the warmest of the northern enclaves, concentrating flavour but eschewing excess of any kind. The results are as spectacular as the volumes are scant.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Albéric Mazoyer, the charismatic sidekick to Alain Voge, is positive about 2013: there was no hail in Cornas and the late growing cycle was actually beneficial in this, the warmest of the northern enclaves, concentrating flavour but eschewing excess of any kind. The results are as spectacular as the volumes are scant.
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£35.00
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£378.00
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Maison Ferraton,
For laying down,
A very late plot, understandably given its imperious 300-metre location, Les Eygats is located on steep slopes of decomposed granite high above the village of Cornas. Damien Brisset is delighted with the results in 2013, pure and profound being the words he uses, which are pretty similar in English. Ageing for 14 months sees 10 percent new oak, but all the vitality in the wine comes from the sheer quality of the Syrah grapes.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here.
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£37.95
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£409.80
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£157.74
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Domaine Stephane Ogier,
Ready, but will improve,
Stéphane is confident that Seyssuel will eventually get its own Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, although not, it seems, before having to pass through a stage as a humble Côtes du Rhône. No matter; he has done more than anyone to raise the profile of these rediscovered ancient vines. Their soils resemble Côte Blonde and their aspect approximates that of Hermitage. The happy coincidence of these features has fathered a wine of aromatic harmony and great latent power.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.
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£37.95
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£204.90
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£22.80
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£157.74
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Domaine Saint Prefert,
For laying down,
There is 10 percent each of Cinsault and Syrah in this cuvée; the wine is charming and subtle with floral aromatics and hints of lavender and a Provençal marketplace.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Isabelle Ferrando is fortunate in that her proclivity for self-publicity chimes very well with the good general publicity that she has been receiving of late from respected international commentators. She is open about the difficulties of 2013, but pleased with the overall results, which required even more patience than usual, with October taking up the redemptive role traditionally reserved for September. The quality of her wines is underwritten by the fact that each individual cuvée is demonstrably different, and that with her Clairette she has made one of the greatest white wines in the region. More Burgundian in style, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve Auguste Favier (70% Grenache and Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvedre) has bright acidity in its medium-bodied, nicely concentrated frame. Giving up notions of spring flowers, cassis, forest floor and toasted spice, it should benefit from short-term cellaring.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Isabelle Ferrando is fortunate in that her proclivity for self-publicity chimes very well with the good general publicity that she has been receiving of late from respected international commentators. She is open about the difficulties of 2013, but pleased with the overall results, which required even more patience than usual, with October taking up the redemptive role traditionally reserved for September. The quality of her wines is underwritten by the fact that each individual cuvée is demonstrably different, and that with her Clairette she has made one of the greatest white wines in the region. More Burgundian in style, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve Auguste Favier (70% Grenache and Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvedre) has bright acidity in its medium-bodied, nicely concentrated frame. Giving up notions of spring flowers, cassis, forest floor and toasted spice, it should benefit from short-term cellaring.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
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£38.95
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£420.60
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£46.80
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£162.24
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Chateau La Nerthe,
Ready, but will improve,
The relative shift in the balance of power from Grenache to Syrah and Mourvèdre has resulted in a 2013 that is darkly coloured, rich and softly spicy. The trademark Nerthe polish is by no means absent, but there is perhaps a little more black fruit than sometimes, and a more authoritative finish.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christian Voeux is better qualified than most when he compares 2013 to the most lauded vintages of the late 20th century. Before taking on the prize job at La Nerthe five years ago, Christian was the highly influential winemaker at Château Mont- Redon for 25 years. The prospect of low yields does not rule out ‘vendanges verte’, he muses, in the same way that cooler temperatures do not mean that the wines will be lacking in structure—QED. A superb 2013, La Nerthe’s classic Châteauneuf du Pape exhibits ample ripe blackberry, sweet cherries, licorice, new leather and spice. Made from 43% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 22% Mourvedre and the balance Cinsault, it spent 12 months in close to equal parts small barrel and larger foudre. Enjoy this medium-bodied, supple, elegant and downright pretty Châteauneuf over the coming decade.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christian Voeux is better qualified than most when he compares 2013 to the most lauded vintages of the late 20th century. Before taking on the prize job at La Nerthe five years ago, Christian was the highly influential winemaker at Château Mont- Redon for 25 years. The prospect of low yields does not rule out ‘vendanges verte’, he muses, in the same way that cooler temperatures do not mean that the wines will be lacking in structure—QED. A superb 2013, La Nerthe’s classic Châteauneuf du Pape exhibits ample ripe blackberry, sweet cherries, licorice, new leather and spice. Made from 43% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 22% Mourvedre and the balance Cinsault, it spent 12 months in close to equal parts small barrel and larger foudre. Enjoy this medium-bodied, supple, elegant and downright pretty Châteauneuf over the coming decade.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
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£215.70
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£166.74
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Domaine Raymond Usseglio,
Ready, but will keep,
As with most of Stéphane’s wines, the ‘brand’ name is far from inappropriate. Roussanne suits barrelageing, as here, where it has had eight months, with regular battonage. However the resulting wine is both pure and focused, with poached pear notes and hints of crème brûlée. A little patience will allow nuances of almond, nougat and lemongrass to come through: all in all, a very promising Roussanne.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
A new father in 2014, Stéphane is pleased with his Syrah in 2013, and also the fact that he is progressing towards full Demeter (biodynamic) accreditation. He’s clearly not afraid of hard work. He describes the 2013 wines, with a whiff of Gallic contradiction as ‘fine yet concentrated’, citing an almost Burgundian elegance of texture and making the comparison-somewhat unusually-to the 2000. Possessing a richer, more layered and ripe profile over the classic white, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Roussanne is 100% of the variety and spent eight months in barrel, on lees. It boasts beautiful purity and freshness, as well as notes of poached pear, apple, brioche and mint. This is followed by a medium-bodied white that has a crisp, well-defined and edgy feel, good concentration and ample length. I’d drink bottles over the coming 3-4 years, but it will hold and evolve for longer.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
A new father in 2014, Stéphane is pleased with his Syrah in 2013, and also the fact that he is progressing towards full Demeter (biodynamic) accreditation. He’s clearly not afraid of hard work. He describes the 2013 wines, with a whiff of Gallic contradiction as ‘fine yet concentrated’, citing an almost Burgundian elegance of texture and making the comparison-somewhat unusually-to the 2000. Possessing a richer, more layered and ripe profile over the classic white, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Roussanne is 100% of the variety and spent eight months in barrel, on lees. It boasts beautiful purity and freshness, as well as notes of poached pear, apple, brioche and mint. This is followed by a medium-bodied white that has a crisp, well-defined and edgy feel, good concentration and ample length. I’d drink bottles over the coming 3-4 years, but it will hold and evolve for longer.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
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£44.00
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£475.20
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£52.80
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£369.96
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Domaine Coursodon,
Ready, but will improve,
These famous precipitous vines behind Mauves are over 80 years old. Once again the new oak employed is scant and the focus is on purity and generous primary fruit; in this case there is a velvety attack but with intimations of firm granite providing a solid backdrop. This is an impressive effort in a rather unusual vintage.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
This vintage was not without its challenges for Jérôme: frost in May, hail in July and very low, uneconomical yields. A very late harvest has produced wines with low pHs, relatively low alcohol and very subtle phenolics. He likens the style to some of the wines made by his father Pierre in the 1980s. In warm years his wines can be very (although not over) ripe, so this redressing of nature’s balance is actually quite welcome, as evidenced by the quality of the finished wines.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
This vintage was not without its challenges for Jérôme: frost in May, hail in July and very low, uneconomical yields. A very late harvest has produced wines with low pHs, relatively low alcohol and very subtle phenolics. He likens the style to some of the wines made by his father Pierre in the 1980s. In warm years his wines can be very (although not over) ripe, so this redressing of nature’s balance is actually quite welcome, as evidenced by the quality of the finished wines.
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Domaine Raymond Usseglio,
For laying down,
One may clearly be guided by thought association, but this wine really does seem to have a lifted, ethereal quality. Mourvèdre dominates the blend, taking up 70 percent, and is aged in three-year-old barriques. The wood is evident, of course, at such a young age, but is far from intrusive; buttressing potential and safeguarding an auspicious future.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
A new father in 2014, Stéphane is pleased with his Syrah in 2013, and also the fact that he is progressing towards full Demeter (biodynamic) accreditation. He’s clearly not afraid of hard work. He describes the 2013 wines, with a whiff of Gallic contradiction as ‘fine yet concentrated’, citing an almost Burgundian elegance of texture and making the comparison-somewhat unusually-to the 2000. While 2013 was a bust for Grenache, the Mourvedre actually excelled. This shows in the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape la Part des Anges, which is 70% Mourvedre and the balance Grenache and Syrah. Aged in new to 3-year-old barrels, it has a modern style, but handles it beautifully. Sweet oak, black raspberry, cassis, crushed flowers and vanilla bean all show here, and it has medium to full-bodied richness, sweet tannin and fantastic mid-palate. It’s a rocking barrel sample that should check in near the top of the appellation.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
A new father in 2014, Stéphane is pleased with his Syrah in 2013, and also the fact that he is progressing towards full Demeter (biodynamic) accreditation. He’s clearly not afraid of hard work. He describes the 2013 wines, with a whiff of Gallic contradiction as ‘fine yet concentrated’, citing an almost Burgundian elegance of texture and making the comparison-somewhat unusually-to the 2000. While 2013 was a bust for Grenache, the Mourvedre actually excelled. This shows in the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape la Part des Anges, which is 70% Mourvedre and the balance Grenache and Syrah. Aged in new to 3-year-old barrels, it has a modern style, but handles it beautifully. Sweet oak, black raspberry, cassis, crushed flowers and vanilla bean all show here, and it has medium to full-bodied richness, sweet tannin and fantastic mid-palate. It’s a rocking barrel sample that should check in near the top of the appellation.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
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Domaine Stephane Ogier,
For laying down,
The barrel tasting chez Ogier is by turns entertaining and rewarding; Stéphane describes his Syrah from Côte Baudin, for example, as a ‘fake blonde’, the wine is far more floral than the vineyard a little further up the hill, Layat, which also features in the blend. The stalwarts of Besset, Fongeant, Champon and Viallière are joined this year by a new holding in Montmain. The wine is appropriately complex, floral, ‘aérien’ and with supple, sweet fruit and precise, very fine tannins. Drink 2017 to 2024.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.
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£52.00
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£280.80
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Maison Ferraton,
For laying down,
The destemmed fruit will have had 14 months in wood for the 2013s, a little less than some years, but intended to underline the elegance of the vintage, which in the case of this wine, is captured by floral, almost red-fruit, aromatics and a finely textured mouthful. A classic example from a lower-lying vineyard, but one with its own distinct and rather beguiling personality.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here. Possessing more minerality, the 2013 Hermitage les Dionnieres Estate has ample crushed rock, smoke, licorice, bouquet garni and sweet dark fruit-like aromas and flavors. A medium to full-bodied, structured Hermitage, it has solid mid-palate depth and building tannin, all suggesting it will evolve nicely. Give it 3-4 years and drink bottles through 2033.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here. Possessing more minerality, the 2013 Hermitage les Dionnieres Estate has ample crushed rock, smoke, licorice, bouquet garni and sweet dark fruit-like aromas and flavors. A medium to full-bodied, structured Hermitage, it has solid mid-palate depth and building tannin, all suggesting it will evolve nicely. Give it 3-4 years and drink bottles through 2033.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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£291.60
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Domaine Alain Voge,
For laying down,
The decomposed granite slopes of Les Mazards, rather alarmingly known locally as ‘gore’, are the source of this famous cuvée. Twenty-five percent of stems are added to the vat for a cuvaison of four weeks, then 24 months in cask, 20 percent of which are new. There is no Vieilles Fontaines this year, so all the grapes have gone into the Vieilles Vignes, which repays the compliment and is suitably magisterial and complex. Fresh and yet imperiously powerful, this wine will be one for the long, longer and longest terms.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Albéric Mazoyer, the charismatic sidekick to Alain Voge, is positive about 2013: there was no hail in Cornas and the late growing cycle was actually beneficial in this, the warmest of the northern enclaves, concentrating flavour but eschewing excess of any kind. The results are as spectacular as the volumes are scant.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Albéric Mazoyer, the charismatic sidekick to Alain Voge, is positive about 2013: there was no hail in Cornas and the late growing cycle was actually beneficial in this, the warmest of the northern enclaves, concentrating flavour but eschewing excess of any kind. The results are as spectacular as the volumes are scant.
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£55.00
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£594.00
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Maison Ferraton,
For laying down,
Le Méal is in a slight dip on the hill and has a little more limestone in its profile, although granite still dominates as it always does in Hermitage. Damien ferments this in concrete tank, which allows what he describes as a ‘better thermic inertia’, whatever that may mean. It seems to have worked, however, as the wine, even in youth, is feminine and silky, its power latent, panther-like and poised.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here. Lastly, the 2013 Hermitage le Meal is the darkest colored of the Hermitage releases and exhibits smoking notes of tar and melted asphalt, crushed rock, leather and smoked dark fruits. It's a big, full-bodied, chewy effort that stays fresh, balanced and pure. It's another beautiful wine from this estate that will have 20-25 years of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here. Lastly, the 2013 Hermitage le Meal is the darkest colored of the Hermitage releases and exhibits smoking notes of tar and melted asphalt, crushed rock, leather and smoked dark fruits. It's a big, full-bodied, chewy effort that stays fresh, balanced and pure. It's another beautiful wine from this estate that will have 20-25 years of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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Domaine Marc Sorrel,
Ready, but will improve,
On tasting this last November one felt that it was sulking. M Sorrel agreed, with a gentle shrug, and advised that this was not necessarily a bad sign. Sure enough, the next encounter, in February, was a much happier affair. Beneath the still somewhat inscrutable exterior there is a fruit profile which recalls damson, plum and myrtle with whispers of cinnamon and black pepper. The majority of the vines are located just behind the railway station at Tain, therefore on the lower slope.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman. A solid step up over the Crozes Hermitage, the 2013 Hermitage is a classic, classy effort that exhibits quality notes of pepper, iron, wet rock and sweet dark fruits. It has medium-bodied richness, bright acidity and firm tannin, all suggesting short-term cellaring.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman. A solid step up over the Crozes Hermitage, the 2013 Hermitage is a classic, classy effort that exhibits quality notes of pepper, iron, wet rock and sweet dark fruits. It has medium-bodied richness, bright acidity and firm tannin, all suggesting short-term cellaring.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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Domaine Marc Sorrel,
Ready, but will improve,
There is more clay in the soils of the Greffieux vines, which has proved felicitous for this 100 percent Marsanne cuvée in 2013. The fruits of these 25-yearold vines spend 14 months in barrel; the wine is oily without being oleaginous, waxy without being astringent and fulsome without being heavy.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman. Moving to the Hermitage releases, there's roughly 900 bottles of the 2013 Hermitage Blanc. Made from 100% Marsanne and all from the Greffieux lieu-dit (which is known for high quality whites), it's aged in 3-4 year old barrels. Ripe, textured, medium to full-bodied and borderline voluptuous, it gives up lots of buttered citrus, honeysuckle, white peach and mineral qualities. It should drink nicely no release, but evolve gracefully as well.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman. Moving to the Hermitage releases, there's roughly 900 bottles of the 2013 Hermitage Blanc. Made from 100% Marsanne and all from the Greffieux lieu-dit (which is known for high quality whites), it's aged in 3-4 year old barrels. Ripe, textured, medium to full-bodied and borderline voluptuous, it gives up lots of buttered citrus, honeysuckle, white peach and mineral qualities. It should drink nicely no release, but evolve gracefully as well.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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Chateau La Nerthe,
Ready, but will improve,
Made predominantly from cask-matured Roussanne and tank-aged Clairette, Beauvenir is rich and beautifully textured. The single plot in front of the château yields old vines, exotic fruit and creamy, decadent indulgence.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christian Voeux is better qualified than most when he compares 2013 to the most lauded vintages of the late 20th century. Before taking on the prize job at La Nerthe five years ago, Christian was the highly influential winemaker at Château Mont- Redon for 25 years. The prospect of low yields does not rule out ‘vendanges verte’, he muses, in the same way that cooler temperatures do not mean that the wines will be lacking in structure—QED. Possessing more brioche, honeysuckle, citrus and white flowers, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Clos de Beauvenir Blanc is a more focused, fresh and lively example of this cuvée. Made from a similar blend of 59% Roussanne, 33% Clairette and the balance Grenache Blanc and Bourboulenc aged ten months in 88% French oak, the wine is medium-bodied, elegant and seamless, with terrific length on the finish. This beauty will be better in another year and evolve for a decade or more, although, as always, drinking in the first 3-4 years is always the sound bet.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christian Voeux is better qualified than most when he compares 2013 to the most lauded vintages of the late 20th century. Before taking on the prize job at La Nerthe five years ago, Christian was the highly influential winemaker at Château Mont- Redon for 25 years. The prospect of low yields does not rule out ‘vendanges verte’, he muses, in the same way that cooler temperatures do not mean that the wines will be lacking in structure—QED. Possessing more brioche, honeysuckle, citrus and white flowers, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Clos de Beauvenir Blanc is a more focused, fresh and lively example of this cuvée. Made from a similar blend of 59% Roussanne, 33% Clairette and the balance Grenache Blanc and Bourboulenc aged ten months in 88% French oak, the wine is medium-bodied, elegant and seamless, with terrific length on the finish. This beauty will be better in another year and evolve for a decade or more, although, as always, drinking in the first 3-4 years is always the sound bet.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
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£75.00
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£405.00
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Domaine Rene Rostaing,
For laying down,
Decomposed schist, known locally as ‘arzelle’, hosts the tiny Rostaing holdings on the Côte Blonde. Ageing provides in Demi-muid a perfect, subtle foil for the unparalleled elegance of this wine; pure piercing Syrah dark-fruit descriptors lead to a dense yet composed palate, a pleasing paradox of potential.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Gnomic and somewhat whimsical at times, René has been playing his own tune for 43 vintages and shows little sign of abdicating. The Dauphin, Pierre, is now firmly and patiently ensconced. All the grapes were destemmed in 2013 and the harvest was not completed until October 13th; quality is good however, very good indeed.
Reductive and hard to read aromatically, the 2013 Cote Rotie Cote Blonde nevertheless has more stuffing, concentration and depth on the palate than the la Landonne. As normal, it keeps things slightly closer to the vest aromatically in its youth, yet the quality shows on the palate. Again, the ripeness, texture, voluptuousness and tannin quality that Rene was able to achieve in 2013 is superior to just about every other estate. I've no doubt this will show beautifully from bottle and be a mid-90s or better scoring effort.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Gnomic and somewhat whimsical at times, René has been playing his own tune for 43 vintages and shows little sign of abdicating. The Dauphin, Pierre, is now firmly and patiently ensconced. All the grapes were destemmed in 2013 and the harvest was not completed until October 13th; quality is good however, very good indeed.
Reductive and hard to read aromatically, the 2013 Cote Rotie Cote Blonde nevertheless has more stuffing, concentration and depth on the palate than the la Landonne. As normal, it keeps things slightly closer to the vest aromatically in its youth, yet the quality shows on the palate. Again, the ripeness, texture, voluptuousness and tannin quality that Rene was able to achieve in 2013 is superior to just about every other estate. I've no doubt this will show beautifully from bottle and be a mid-90s or better scoring effort.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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£78.00
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£468.00
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£376.98
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£540.00
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Domaine Marc Sorrel,
For laying down,
The limestone from the Méal vineyard informs the style this year; that is to say it is feminine, charming, linear and long. It’s a shame that the availability is so short, however, as only eight barrels were made. None of the fruit was destemmed, a fact which is hard to believe sometimes, such is the silky texture of this very fine wine. There is something in the region of eight percent Marsanne in this wine, it seems.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman.
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£100.00
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£540.00
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£436.98
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Domaine Marc Sorrel,
For laying down,
Les Rocoules has more calcerous soils than its junior sibling; it is the fruit of older vines and contains eight percent Roussanne in the blend. The wine is bottled unfiltered and glories in complexity and ageing potential; pear skin, lanolin and a hint of hazelnut inform the palate. M Sorrel, modestly in all probability, recommends holding onto it for 10 years.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman.
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£100.00
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£540.00
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Château d'Esclans,
Drink now,
This is like no other rosé I have ever tasted. Made from 80 year old vines atop a hill top vineyard in Provence. It is unquestionably a serious wine, not a ‘glugger’ but something to sit back and appreciate. The precision and structure to the mineral infused red berry fruit actually gives this a little bit of age worthiness but why wait. Clean and refreshing with subtlety yet intensity of wild strawberry fruit all the while being bolstered by crisp oak notes – not many rosés are capable of taking extended oak ageing but this does it with aplomb. This can genuinely be described as a fine wine and may just be the best rosé in the world.
Peter Newton, Private Account Manager
Wine expected for delivery in mid-July. I have been lucky enough to taste every single release from this estate since Sacha Lichine started his spectacular rosé odyssey nearly a decade ago. I am happy to report that as every year passes d’Esclans manages to lead the field and raise the bar in the elite rosé category. I can report that 2013 Garrus is a near perfect wine – I have awarded it 19/20 in my notes! It costs a bomb but if you love serious, uncompromisingly awesome wines, why get hung up on the price tag. Garrus and its extended family of d’Esclans wines, which includes a remarkably competent everyday rosé called Whispering Angel, are the finest rosés on the planet. Garrus sits at the top of the portfolio and it comes from a block of 80 year old Grenache and Rolle vines. Only a handful of barrels are made each year and I urge you to taste this game-changer.
Matthew Jukes
Wine expected for delivery in mid-July.
Peter Newton, Private Account Manager
Wine expected for delivery in mid-July. I have been lucky enough to taste every single release from this estate since Sacha Lichine started his spectacular rosé odyssey nearly a decade ago. I am happy to report that as every year passes d’Esclans manages to lead the field and raise the bar in the elite rosé category. I can report that 2013 Garrus is a near perfect wine – I have awarded it 19/20 in my notes! It costs a bomb but if you love serious, uncompromisingly awesome wines, why get hung up on the price tag. Garrus and its extended family of d’Esclans wines, which includes a remarkably competent everyday rosé called Whispering Angel, are the finest rosés on the planet. Garrus sits at the top of the portfolio and it comes from a block of 80 year old Grenache and Rolle vines. Only a handful of barrels are made each year and I urge you to taste this game-changer.
Matthew Jukes
Wine expected for delivery in mid-July.
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Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Domaines Durban and Bernardins are the two leading producers of Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, but made in completely contrasting styles and both worthy of inclusion here. Durban is located, in every sense, at the top of the village, its guiding principles being elegance and harmony of flavour. Although technically something of a misnomer, the phrase ‘Vin Doux Naturel’ seems most appropriate here.