1979 Alsace

From the north of the Côte Blonde, just above the town of Ampuis and not far from the famous Guigal Single Vineyards, this is 100 percent Syrah, confirming that Michel does not really believe in blended wines, not in the north of the valley at least. From soils made up of mica schist, loess and iron oxide, this is a beautifully crafted wine, with feline Syrah elegance and a silky veil of tannin.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill
 

Looking at Michel's 2013 Cote Rotie la Mordoree, it has a peppery, floral, lavender and black-raspberry-driven bouquet to go with medium to full-bodied richness on the palate. Ripe, nicely concentrated and balanced, with juicy acidity, it has a classic style and will benefit from short-term cellaring. It should have two decades of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

As you climb towards the chapel the soil gets thinner and thinner until all that is left is pure granite; and purity is certainly a key descriptor for L’Ermite in 2013. Parsimonious yields and minimal intervention are responsible for this, the definitive statement of Syrah, a wine that effortlessly combines charm and austerity, simplicity and encyclopaedic complexity, reticence and expansive poetry.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill. The 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite is another wine that’s a candidate for the wine of the vintage, if not the best wine produced in all of France in 2013. As normal, it has an insane level of minerality, and frankly, I know of no better description of “liquid rock” than the mineral-like sensation induced by tasting this cuvee. Graphite, charcoal, licorice and sweet crème de cassis also all emerge from the glass. This gorgeous 2013 has full-bodied richness, terrific purity, ripe tannin structure and serious intensity. Give it 4-5 years and drink bottles over the following 2-3 decades.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

White Cairanne is one of the few village whites with its own AOC. The emphasis on grapes which do not feature in Châteauneuf -du-Pape is captured here with 50% Marsanne and 10% of Viognier dominating the blend, the balance being from Roussanne. Aged for ten months with regular lees stirring, the wine has delicious aromas of quince, poached pears and white flowers, matched on the palate by classic Marsanne notes of beeswax and grilled almond.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Certified as biodynamic in 2012, L’Oratoire St Martin is run with great skill by brothers François and Fréderic Alary, both leading players in the long-overdue movement to get Cairanne promoted to stand-alone ‘cru’ status. According to Frédéric, 2015 may well be the year; 2013, on the other hand, was the year to tax the accountants, given the miniscule yields of Grenache that were farmed. The wines that were made are impressive, probably best approached in relative youth, which is no bad thing.

The Roussanne in 2013 does not seem to have forsaken either concentration or complexity in this slightly cooler year. Stylistically it complements the generic white wine perfectly. These very old vines cover seven hectares of pebbly terrain, their fruits vinified and matured 40 percent in barrel and 60 percent in tank, a slightly higher percentage of wood than is the norm. The wine combines creamy richness, nutty elegance and mineral grip – it will age with effortless grace.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The limestone from the Méal vineyard informs the style this year; that is to say it is feminine, charming, linear and long. It’s a shame that the availability is so short, however, as only eight barrels were made. None of the fruit was destemmed, a fact which is hard to believe sometimes, such is the silky texture of this very fine wine. There is something in the region of eight percent Marsanne in this wine, it seems.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman.

Domaine Saint Préfert is a Châteauneuf-du-Pape A-lister. Isabel Ferrando’s vines are mainly located in the southern sector; her modus operandus is fairly traditional. Her outlook and temperament, however, fall into the more modern camp, as manifested by the multiplicity of differing cuvées – all, thankfully, pleasingly different from each other. Made only in magnum, yet in minute quantities, this particular wine is the appellation’s most eloquent celebration of the Clairette grape, hitherto somewhat underappreciated but historically significant.

Sourced from old vines in an enclave of Les Serres and barrel-fermented, the wine is full-bodied and rich, with almond, brioche and verbena notes which recall a Marsanne, or maybe its rather more urbane cousin.
Tasted as a barrel sample, Ferrando’s 2013 Châteaueuf du Pape Cuvee Speciale Vieilles Vignes (Clairette) is stunning. Made from old-vine Clairette vines in the Les Serres lieu-dit that wasn’t harvested until October 12, it’s similar in style to the classic cuvee, yet has additional toast, brioche and honeysuckle to go with medium to full-bodied richness, fabulous purity of fruit and terrific length through the finish. Bottled only in magnum, drink this blockbuster white anytime over the coming decade.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

From vines located in the parcel of Les Murets, this is a ripe expression of 100 percent Marsanne, its nutty texture backed by a youthful, almost tropical ebullience, its seductive aromatics dominated by blonde tobacco, fennel and sour honey. The puppy fat will fall away with time allowing even greater complexity to confirm initial qualitative suspicions.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill. Leading off three single-vintage whites from Hermitage, the stunning 2013 Ermitage Cuvee de L’Orée has an off-the-hook bouquet that includes just about everything you could think of when considering Hermitage Blanc. White peach, white flowers, almond paste, quince and wet rock are just some of the nuances, and it packs a serious punch on the palate, with full-bodied richness, a flamboyant, expansive texture and riveting focus and purity. Give it a year or so and drink it over the following 2-3 decades.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

From the Bédarrides commune in the south-east of the appellation, Croix de Bois is a monovarietal Grenache, and one which is seemingly careless of some of the problems which beset that varietal in 2013. Reserved at the moment than the wine has plenty of matière, spice and poised tannin, ensuring that its evolution will be fascinating to follow.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill.


In the same ballpark, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois has a softer, more upfront and textured feel then the Barbe Rac, which always seems to me to be slightly more serious and focused. Giving up loads of jammy blackberry and assorted darker fruits, licorice, and wild herbs, this full-bodied, ripe and layered effort makes the most of the vintage. It will drink nicely on release and dish out plenty of pleasure through 2023.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

The Landonne vines are venerable, some dating back to the 1920s and all made up of Syrah only. Ageing is for 24 months and is shared between demi-muids (550-litre barrels) and older Burgundian pièces, a small percentage of which are new. René detects less of the ‘oxide de fer’ character this year, which translates in the glass into a rich, spicy wine, with complex red fruit nuances and immense power on the finish: archetypal l Landonne in other words.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Gnomic and somewhat whimsical at times, René has been playing his own tune for 43 vintages and shows little sign of abdicating. The Dauphin, Pierre, is now firmly and patiently ensconced. All the grapes were destemmed in 2013 and the harvest was not completed until October 13th; quality is good however, very good indeed.
A big step up over the Ampodium, the 2013 Cote Rotie la Landonne is a muscular, mineral and iron-laced 2013 that has lots of black and blue fruits, crushed rock, pepper and ground herb-like qualities all emerging from the glass. Shockingly good on the palate, it has full-bodied richness, lots of mid-palate depth and a plenty of structure. It will need a decade of cellaring, but be worth it.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

On tasting this last November one felt that it was sulking. M Sorrel agreed, with a gentle shrug, and advised that this was not necessarily a bad sign. Sure enough, the next encounter, in February, was a much happier affair. Beneath the still somewhat inscrutable exterior there is a fruit profile which recalls damson, plum and myrtle with whispers of cinnamon and black pepper. The majority of the vines are located just behind the railway station at Tain, therefore on the lower slope.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman.


A solid step up over the Crozes Hermitage, the 2013 Hermitage is a classic, classy effort that exhibits quality notes of pepper, iron, wet rock and sweet dark fruits. It has medium-bodied richness, bright acidity and firm tannin, all suggesting short-term cellaring.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

The Bessenon vineyard is located next to an eponymous stream, which flows through the southern commune of Tupin-Semons. With soil based on gneiss and granite, the wine contains 10 percent of Viognier, and is, stylistically, from the more elegant and floral end of the spectrum. The 2013 will have been aged in barrique for 18 months on release and boasts the elegant violet aromatics that one has come to love from this appellation.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Dynamic and energetic, Yves sometimes gives the impression of trying too hard: there is so much activity and so many wines, why can’t the message be clearer? Well, my message is clear and it underlines the overall quality of the range, proved once again by a recent (late 2014) Decanter tasting which put M Cuilleron's Côte Rôtie on its own at the very top of the tree. Pragmatism over the hot topic of destemming and a general inclination to harvest late are cited as two cornerstones of the Cuilleron philosophy. Yves praises the equilibrium of his 2013 whites, and is pleased with both the colour and the tannic structure of his reds.

From precipitous south-facing vines in the famous commune of Vernon, this well-named cuvée is aged for 18 months in barrique and is released almost a year after Yves’s other whites. This lavish élevage is reflected in a rich and spicy wine, with mirabelle plum and honeysuckle complemented by notes of brioche, vanillin and white tobacco.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Dynamic and energetic, Yves sometimes gives the impression of trying too hard: there is so much activity and so many wines, why can’t the message be clearer? Well, my message is clear and it underlines the overall quality of the range, proved once again by a recent (late 2014) Decanter tasting which put M Cuilleron's Côte Rôtie on its own at the very top of the tree. Pragmatism over the hot topic of destemming and a general inclination to harvest late are cited as two cornerstones of the Cuilleron philosophy. Yves praises the equilibrium of his 2013 whites, and is pleased with both the colour and the tannic structure of his reds.

Cuminaille has been a long-standing Berry Bros. & Rudd listing, and was indeed one of M Gaillard’s first projects on leaving Vidal Fleury (then not owned by Guigal) in the late 1970s. The quality is as good as ever, with a relatively short cuvaison indicative of both the quality and power of the fruit itself, which sings of cassis, sloe and myrtle, with bay, cocoa and hints of dark chocolate in the wings.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

The Medieval village of Malleval, perched high above the serpentine Rhône, provides a suitably lofty homestead for Pierre Gaillard, one of the most influential and highlyrespected vignerons in the valley. With his two daughters, son and wife all part of the business, this is clearly a family affair, its influence now keenly felt in Seyssuel just to the north, not to mention Collioure and Faugères in the Languedoc, where some excellent wines have broadened an already impressive portfolio. The smaller production 2013 Saint Joseph Clos de Cuminaille should be a step up over the traditional cuvee. It has rock-solid notes of black raspberry, crushed rocks, wild herbs and olive, as well as good underlying minerality. Medium-bodied, balanced, with good purity and an elegant feel, it should have 7-8 years of longevity, possibly more.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

Le Méal is in a slight dip on the hill and has a little more limestone in its profile, although granite still dominates as it always does in Hermitage. Damien ferments this in concrete tank, which allows what he describes as a ‘better thermic inertia’, whatever that may mean. It seems to have worked, however, as the wine, even in youth, is feminine and silky, its power latent, panther-like and poised.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here.



Lastly, the 2013 Hermitage le Meal is the darkest colored of the Hermitage releases and exhibits smoking notes of tar and melted asphalt, crushed rock, leather and smoked dark fruits. It's a big, full-bodied, chewy effort that stays fresh, balanced and pure. It's another beautiful wine from this estate that will have 20-25 years of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

The destemmed fruit will have had 14 months in wood for the 2013s, a little less than some years, but intended to underline the elegance of the vintage, which in the case of this wine, is captured by floral, almost red-fruit, aromatics and a finely textured mouthful. A classic example from a lower-lying vineyard, but one with its own distinct and rather beguiling personality.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Michel marginally prefers the whites to the reds in 2013. The eastern alluvial/clay soils have nourished Le Méal, the vinification for which has been shared between stainless steel and demi-muid. A nose of hazelnut and smoke is most promising and the palate fails to disappoint.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill Easily the finest vintage of this cuvee to date, the 2013 Ermitage le Meal Blanc doesn’t give an inch to the more heralded Cuvee de L’Orée or l’Ermite. Pure perfection in a glass, with awesome caramelized citrus, pineapple, crushed rock, toasted bread and buttered peach, it’s full-bodied, massive and concentrated on the palate, with incredible purity, richness and length. As with the other top whites here, it needs a year or two in the cellar and will have 2-3 decades of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

More closed than its junior siblings in youth, L’Ermite will come round over time with a Montrachet-like self-assurance. The sine qua non of Marsanne, or, quite possibly, of all white wines, this is an outstanding wine, and more than justifies Michel’s often outspoken but seldom unsuccessful quest for perfection.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill Completing a trifecta of perfect whites, the 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite Blanc is another sensational effort that offers incredible minerality/liquid rock in its pineapple, tangerine, flower oil, mint and caramelized citrus-driven bouquet. Full-bodied and beautiful on the palate, with more tension and focus than the Cuvee de L’Orée or le Meal, it has perfectly balanced richness, structure and freshness, with no hard edges and a blockbuster finish. It won't be accessible for another 3-4 years and will most likely be immortal in the cellar.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

The barrel tasting chez Ogier is by turns entertaining and rewarding; Stéphane describes his Syrah from Côte Baudin, for example, as a ‘fake blonde’, the wine is far more floral than the vineyard a little further up the hill, Layat, which also features in the blend. The stalwarts of Besset, Fongeant, Champon and Viallière are joined this year by a new holding in Montmain. The wine is appropriately complex, floral, ‘aérien’ and with supple, sweet fruit and precise, very fine tannins. Drink 2017 to 2024.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.

Twenty percent stems are added to this cuvée, which is made up of 80 percent Grenache, the balance shared between Syrah, Cinsault, Counoise and Mourvèdre. An impressive colour is matched by sweet blackberry and plum aromas and a palate where liquorice and spice provide an elegant foil to the fruit character, which is forward, rounded and long, all at the same time.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Close to the Rostaing vineyards, this bijou plot was singled out to be a cuvée for the first time in 2013 and was farmed at a somewhat commercially challenging 13 hectolitres per hectare. Six barriques later, the wine is showing all the signs of being a classic, with a dense, brambly aroma and hints of cinnamon and wild strawberry completing the seduction. The palate does not disappoint with the classic Côte Rôtie calling cards of bacon rind, blackberry confit and olives all evidenced en bouche.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

New to our range, but a familiar face in Ampuis, M Barge has a reputation for forthright opinion and, in my experience, somewhat forthright wines which have historically had a tendency to being traditional to the point of rusticity. This appears to be changing as Gilles cedes more control to his son Julien and, two visits later, I am actually quite excited about the wines. Tradition is seldom a word that is used pejoratively at Berry Bros. & Rudd, and with this range there is a real sense of history and slow, subtle refinement, in both senses of the word.

Decomposed schist, known locally as ‘arzelle’, hosts the tiny Rostaing holdings on the Côte Blonde. Ageing provides in Demi-muid a perfect, subtle foil for the unparalleled elegance of this wine; pure piercing Syrah dark-fruit descriptors lead to a dense yet composed palate, a pleasing paradox of potential.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Gnomic and somewhat whimsical at times, René has been playing his own tune for 43 vintages and shows little sign of abdicating. The Dauphin, Pierre, is now firmly and patiently ensconced. All the grapes were destemmed in 2013 and the harvest was not completed until October 13th; quality is good however, very good indeed.
Reductive and hard to read aromatically, the 2013 Cote Rotie Cote Blonde nevertheless has more stuffing, concentration and depth on the palate than the la Landonne. As normal, it keeps things slightly closer to the vest aromatically in its youth, yet the quality shows on the palate. Again, the ripeness, texture, voluptuousness and tannin quality that Rene was able to achieve in 2013 is superior to just about every other estate. I've no doubt this will show beautifully from bottle and be a mid-90s or better scoring effort.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

The distinctive volcanic soil of Le Combard underwrites a text of firm acidity, dense rich fruit and quite flowery tannins. The vines are on the boarder between the Ampuis and Tupin enclaves and there is eight percent Viognier in the blend. Somewhat idiosyncratic, but with no lack of charm, the 2013 is very promising. It will have been aged for a total of two years in wood before bottling.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

New to our range, but a familiar face in Ampuis, M Barge has a reputation for forthright opinion and, in my experience, somewhat forthright wines which have historically had a tendency to being traditional to the point of rusticity. This appears to be changing as Gilles cedes more control to his son Julien and, two visits later, I am actually quite excited about the wines. Tradition is seldom a word that is used pejoratively at Berry Bros. & Rudd, and with this range there is a real sense of history and slow, subtle refinement, in both senses of the word.

Arguably the most iconic dry Riesling on the planet, Trimbach’s Clos St Hune is a 1.67-hectare vineyard that produces approximately just 8,000 bottles a year. It is traditionally aged for five years in the cellar after bottling, before release, and in great vintages, it is capable of drinking beautifully for another half century.

The 2011 is a classically styled vintage of this great Riesling. Not as exuberant as some warmer vintages, presently the wine is relatively taut with beautiful minerality. It still has the slightly glossy, polished palate-weight of this iconic wine. I expect it to open out in the next couple of years and drink for 20 more.

Located on gravel terraces between the villages of Cairanne and Ste Cécile les Vignes, Peyre Blanche, as the name suggests, is an attractive vineyard, dominated by white clay soil. Always one of the most forward of the range, this is a blend of 70 percent Grenache and 20 percent Syrah, the relatively sheltered vines rewarding us with a red fruit basket of open and honest flavours.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

The Perrins are owners of the famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape estate Château de Beaucastel, but have, over the years, broadened their repertoire to include wines from the key villages in the Southern Rhône. All of these fall under the appropriate nomenclature of La Famille Perrin, reflecting the peerless team effort that goes into the production of a range of wines which is without rival in this part of the world: all are impeccably made and reflect the true nature of the terroir from which they come. The Perrins have refined yet further this already very polished message by segregating their top domaines into a ‘parcellaire’ category.