1979 Alsace

From the north of the Côte Blonde, just above the town of Ampuis and not far from the famous Guigal Single Vineyards, this is 100 percent Syrah, confirming that Michel does not really believe in blended wines, not in the north of the valley at least. From soils made up of mica schist, loess and iron oxide, this is a beautifully crafted wine, with feline Syrah elegance and a silky veil of tannin.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill
 

Looking at Michel's 2013 Cote Rotie la Mordoree, it has a peppery, floral, lavender and black-raspberry-driven bouquet to go with medium to full-bodied richness on the palate. Ripe, nicely concentrated and balanced, with juicy acidity, it has a classic style and will benefit from short-term cellaring. It should have two decades of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

As you climb towards the chapel the soil gets thinner and thinner until all that is left is pure granite; and purity is certainly a key descriptor for L’Ermite in 2013. Parsimonious yields and minimal intervention are responsible for this, the definitive statement of Syrah, a wine that effortlessly combines charm and austerity, simplicity and encyclopaedic complexity, reticence and expansive poetry.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill. The 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite is another wine that’s a candidate for the wine of the vintage, if not the best wine produced in all of France in 2013. As normal, it has an insane level of minerality, and frankly, I know of no better description of “liquid rock” than the mineral-like sensation induced by tasting this cuvee. Graphite, charcoal, licorice and sweet crème de cassis also all emerge from the glass. This gorgeous 2013 has full-bodied richness, terrific purity, ripe tannin structure and serious intensity. Give it 4-5 years and drink bottles over the following 2-3 decades.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

Arguably the most iconic dry Riesling on the planet, Trimbach’s Clos St Hune is a 1.67-hectare vineyard that produces approximately just 8,000 bottles a year. It is traditionally aged for five years in the cellar after bottling, before release, and in great vintages, it is capable of drinking beautifully for another half century.

The 2011 is a classically styled vintage of this great Riesling. Not as exuberant as some warmer vintages, presently the wine is relatively taut with beautiful minerality. It still has the slightly glossy, polished palate-weight of this iconic wine. I expect it to open out in the next couple of years and drink for 20 more.

Domaine Saint Préfert is a Châteauneuf-du-Pape A-lister. Isabel Ferrando’s vines are mainly located in the southern sector; her modus operandus is fairly traditional. Her outlook and temperament, however, fall into the more modern camp, as manifested by the multiplicity of differing cuvées – all, thankfully, pleasingly different from each other. Made only in magnum, yet in minute quantities, this particular wine is the appellation’s most eloquent celebration of the Clairette grape, hitherto somewhat underappreciated but historically significant.

Sourced from old vines in an enclave of Les Serres and barrel-fermented, the wine is full-bodied and rich, with almond, brioche and verbena notes which recall a Marsanne, or maybe its rather more urbane cousin.
Tasted as a barrel sample, Ferrando’s 2013 Châteaueuf du Pape Cuvee Speciale Vieilles Vignes (Clairette) is stunning. Made from old-vine Clairette vines in the Les Serres lieu-dit that wasn’t harvested until October 12, it’s similar in style to the classic cuvee, yet has additional toast, brioche and honeysuckle to go with medium to full-bodied richness, fabulous purity of fruit and terrific length through the finish. Bottled only in magnum, drink this blockbuster white anytime over the coming decade.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

Beneath the famous chapel, but still part of the solid granite Bessards commune, the Pavillon is so-named in reference to the ruins of an old stone house. The wine is dense, sinewy and long, with distinctive black cherry fruit, liquorice and cigar box evidenced. Twenty percent new oak is worn with nonchalance, but adds subtle texture to the ensemble.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill. Moving to the 2013 Ermitage le Pavillon, it has terrific depth, density and concentration to go with layers of crème de cassis, Asian spice, toasted bread, licorice and the essence of granite-induced minerality. While this vintage produced more fresh, firm wines, this has a generosity and sexiness that defines the stereotype. Nevertheless, I suspect short-term cellaring will be required for it to be approachable, and it will have a long life.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

The Landonne vines are venerable, some dating back to the 1920s and all made up of Syrah only. Ageing is for 24 months and is shared between demi-muids (550-litre barrels) and older Burgundian pièces, a small percentage of which are new. René detects less of the ‘oxide de fer’ character this year, which translates in the glass into a rich, spicy wine, with complex red fruit nuances and immense power on the finish: archetypal l Landonne in other words.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Gnomic and somewhat whimsical at times, René has been playing his own tune for 43 vintages and shows little sign of abdicating. The Dauphin, Pierre, is now firmly and patiently ensconced. All the grapes were destemmed in 2013 and the harvest was not completed until October 13th; quality is good however, very good indeed.
A big step up over the Ampodium, the 2013 Cote Rotie la Landonne is a muscular, mineral and iron-laced 2013 that has lots of black and blue fruits, crushed rock, pepper and ground herb-like qualities all emerging from the glass. Shockingly good on the palate, it has full-bodied richness, lots of mid-palate depth and a plenty of structure. It will need a decade of cellaring, but be worth it.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

This famous single vineyard fared well in 2013, with less hail experienced than further along the Mercurol plain. Concentration, ripe black fruit and a hint of rigour underwrite typicity and ageing potential with great skill. Drink 2016 to 2020.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

When he is not piloting himself and Jean- Michel Gerin to their joint venture in Priorat, the amiable Laurent Combier works hard, and with great success, to develop the international profile of Crozes-Hermitage. Experimentation in the winery, where vinification may take place in a variety of vessels, including concrete eggs, allied to a keen sense of the under-appreciated differences in terroir in the appellation, have ensured that his wines maintain their primacy. They are always ripe, fruity and balanced, as achieved in 2013 despite the hail and resulting low yields.

We especially liked L’Amarybelle this year; the organic rigour of the tending of its vines echoed in the glass with a rare purity and no lack of charm. Dark fruits and soft spices are buttressed by finely etched tannins and crisp acidity. Hints of eucalypt and mint at the back of the palate enhance the wine yet further.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Dynamic and energetic, Yves sometimes gives the impression of trying too hard: there is so much activity and so many wines, why can’t the message be clearer? Well, my message is clear and it underlines the overall quality of the range, proved once again by a recent (late 2014) Decanter tasting which put M Cuilleron's Côte Rôtie on its own at the very top of the tree. Pragmatism over the hot topic of destemming and a general inclination to harvest late are cited as two cornerstones of the Cuilleron philosophy. Yves praises the equilibrium of his 2013 whites, and is pleased with both the colour and the tannic structure of his reds.

Chave’s mere 500 years of expertise in the Northern Rhône underwrites this deeply coloured spicy St Joseph, its notes of plum, black pepper and soft spice complemented by a firm texture, organic husbandry and an impressive seam of mineral acidity.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Jean-Louis Chave does not release his top domaine Hermitage wines in time for the en primeur campaign, which will allow us to give them the limelight when they do eventually appear, probably two years down the track. To make up for this, we have allocations of these two excellent wines from 2013, both made by his négociant arm, where a small amount of the fruit is boughtin. Being M Chave, however, we can rest assured that the quality of the fruit is impeccable and that his legendary attention to detail through all aspects of the process has been respected.

From vines located in the parcel of Les Murets, this is a ripe expression of 100 percent Marsanne, its nutty texture backed by a youthful, almost tropical ebullience, its seductive aromatics dominated by blonde tobacco, fennel and sour honey. The puppy fat will fall away with time allowing even greater complexity to confirm initial qualitative suspicions.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill. Leading off three single-vintage whites from Hermitage, the stunning 2013 Ermitage Cuvee de L’Orée has an off-the-hook bouquet that includes just about everything you could think of when considering Hermitage Blanc. White peach, white flowers, almond paste, quince and wet rock are just some of the nuances, and it packs a serious punch on the palate, with full-bodied richness, a flamboyant, expansive texture and riveting focus and purity. Give it a year or so and drink it over the following 2-3 decades.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

More closed than its junior siblings in youth, L’Ermite will come round over time with a Montrachet-like self-assurance. The sine qua non of Marsanne, or, quite possibly, of all white wines, this is an outstanding wine, and more than justifies Michel’s often outspoken but seldom unsuccessful quest for perfection.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill Completing a trifecta of perfect whites, the 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite Blanc is another sensational effort that offers incredible minerality/liquid rock in its pineapple, tangerine, flower oil, mint and caramelized citrus-driven bouquet. Full-bodied and beautiful on the palate, with more tension and focus than the Cuvee de L’Orée or le Meal, it has perfectly balanced richness, structure and freshness, with no hard edges and a blockbuster finish. It won't be accessible for another 3-4 years and will most likely be immortal in the cellar.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

The barrel tasting chez Ogier is by turns entertaining and rewarding; Stéphane describes his Syrah from Côte Baudin, for example, as a ‘fake blonde’, the wine is far more floral than the vineyard a little further up the hill, Layat, which also features in the blend. The stalwarts of Besset, Fongeant, Champon and Viallière are joined this year by a new holding in Montmain. The wine is appropriately complex, floral, ‘aérien’ and with supple, sweet fruit and precise, very fine tannins. Drink 2017 to 2024.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.