1979 Alsace

The decomposed granite slopes of Les Mazards, rather alarmingly known locally as ‘gore’, are the source of this famous cuvée. Twenty-five percent of stems are added to the vat for a cuvaison of four weeks, then 24 months in cask, 20 percent of which are new. There is no Vieilles Fontaines this year, so all the grapes have gone into the Vieilles Vignes, which repays the compliment and is suitably magisterial and complex. Fresh and yet imperiously powerful, this wine will be one for the long, longer and longest terms.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Albéric Mazoyer, the charismatic sidekick to Alain Voge, is positive about 2013: there was no hail in Cornas and the late growing cycle was actually beneficial in this, the warmest of the northern enclaves, concentrating flavour but eschewing excess of any kind. The results are as spectacular as the volumes are scant.

From the north of the Côte Blonde, just above the town of Ampuis and not far from the famous Guigal Single Vineyards, this is 100 percent Syrah, confirming that Michel does not really believe in blended wines, not in the north of the valley at least. From soils made up of mica schist, loess and iron oxide, this is a beautifully crafted wine, with feline Syrah elegance and a silky veil of tannin.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill
 

Looking at Michel's 2013 Cote Rotie la Mordoree, it has a peppery, floral, lavender and black-raspberry-driven bouquet to go with medium to full-bodied richness on the palate. Ripe, nicely concentrated and balanced, with juicy acidity, it has a classic style and will benefit from short-term cellaring. It should have two decades of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

One of the top whites in the appellation, Guigal’s 2013 Saint Joseph Lieu Dit Saint Joseph Blanc comes from the pure granite soils of the namesake vineyard of the appellation and is a blend of 93% Marsanne and 7% Roussanne. It was aged in slightly less new oak in 2013 (prior vintages saw 100% new) with the goal to make it more approachable on release. Now aged 12 months in two-thirds new and one-third 2-year-old barrels, it sports a medium-gold color to go with sensational notes of crème brulee, caramelized peach, toast and almond paste, with additional minerality emerging on the palate. Full-bodied, rich and textured, it's a serious Saint Joseph Blanc that will stand toe-to-toe with some top white Hermitage. Drink it over the coming decade or more.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014 The St Joseph lieu-dit within the greater appellation is located directly behind the ancient château of Tournon, its steeply terraced vines providing a scenic backdrop for this old Ardèche monument. The blend is weighted 95 percent Marsanne to five percent Roussanne and aged for a year in new barrels. The wine has classic Marsanne descriptors of flowers, smoke and roasted almond, happily transferred to the palate which is generously textured, finely structured and agreeably long.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

The Guigal dynasty continues to lead the way in the valley-north and south-with some lines made in huge volumes, others pitifully scarce; some at entry price points, some frighteningly expensive. Quality seems to underwrite the entire range, however, much to the credit of all concerned, and these two white wines illustrate this point brilliantly.

Domaine Saint Préfert is a Châteauneuf-du-Pape A-lister. Isabel Ferrando’s vines are mainly located in the southern sector; her modus operandus is fairly traditional. Her outlook and temperament, however, fall into the more modern camp, as manifested by the multiplicity of differing cuvées – all, thankfully, pleasingly different from each other. Made only in magnum, yet in minute quantities, this particular wine is the appellation’s most eloquent celebration of the Clairette grape, hitherto somewhat underappreciated but historically significant.

Sourced from old vines in an enclave of Les Serres and barrel-fermented, the wine is full-bodied and rich, with almond, brioche and verbena notes which recall a Marsanne, or maybe its rather more urbane cousin.
Tasted as a barrel sample, Ferrando’s 2013 Châteaueuf du Pape Cuvee Speciale Vieilles Vignes (Clairette) is stunning. Made from old-vine Clairette vines in the Les Serres lieu-dit that wasn’t harvested until October 12, it’s similar in style to the classic cuvee, yet has additional toast, brioche and honeysuckle to go with medium to full-bodied richness, fabulous purity of fruit and terrific length through the finish. Bottled only in magnum, drink this blockbuster white anytime over the coming decade.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

From vines located in the parcel of Les Murets, this is a ripe expression of 100 percent Marsanne, its nutty texture backed by a youthful, almost tropical ebullience, its seductive aromatics dominated by blonde tobacco, fennel and sour honey. The puppy fat will fall away with time allowing even greater complexity to confirm initial qualitative suspicions.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill. Leading off three single-vintage whites from Hermitage, the stunning 2013 Ermitage Cuvee de L’Orée has an off-the-hook bouquet that includes just about everything you could think of when considering Hermitage Blanc. White peach, white flowers, almond paste, quince and wet rock are just some of the nuances, and it packs a serious punch on the palate, with full-bodied richness, a flamboyant, expansive texture and riveting focus and purity. Give it a year or so and drink it over the following 2-3 decades.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

Beneath the famous chapel, but still part of the solid granite Bessards commune, the Pavillon is so-named in reference to the ruins of an old stone house. The wine is dense, sinewy and long, with distinctive black cherry fruit, liquorice and cigar box evidenced. Twenty percent new oak is worn with nonchalance, but adds subtle texture to the ensemble.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill. Moving to the 2013 Ermitage le Pavillon, it has terrific depth, density and concentration to go with layers of crème de cassis, Asian spice, toasted bread, licorice and the essence of granite-induced minerality. While this vintage produced more fresh, firm wines, this has a generosity and sexiness that defines the stereotype. Nevertheless, I suspect short-term cellaring will be required for it to be approachable, and it will have a long life.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

As you climb towards the chapel the soil gets thinner and thinner until all that is left is pure granite; and purity is certainly a key descriptor for L’Ermite in 2013. Parsimonious yields and minimal intervention are responsible for this, the definitive statement of Syrah, a wine that effortlessly combines charm and austerity, simplicity and encyclopaedic complexity, reticence and expansive poetry.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill. The 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite is another wine that’s a candidate for the wine of the vintage, if not the best wine produced in all of France in 2013. As normal, it has an insane level of minerality, and frankly, I know of no better description of “liquid rock” than the mineral-like sensation induced by tasting this cuvee. Graphite, charcoal, licorice and sweet crème de cassis also all emerge from the glass. This gorgeous 2013 has full-bodied richness, terrific purity, ripe tannin structure and serious intensity. Give it 4-5 years and drink bottles over the following 2-3 decades.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

A big step up over the Ampodium, the 2013 Cote Rotie la Landonne is a muscular, mineral and iron-laced 2013 that has lots of black and blue fruits, crushed rock, pepper and ground herb-like qualities all emerging from the glass. Shockingly good on the palate, it has full-bodied richness, lots of mid-palate depth and a plenty of structure. It will need a decade of cellaring, but be worth it.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014 The Landonne vines are venerable, some dating back to the 1920s and all made up of Syrah only. Ageing is for 24 months and is shared between demi-muids (550-litre barrels) and older Burgundian pièces, a small percentage of which are new. René detects less of the ‘oxide de fer’ character this year, which translates in the glass into a rich, spicy wine, with complex red fruit nuances and immense power on the finish: archetypal l Landonne in other words.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Gnomic and somewhat whimsical at times, René has been playing his own tune for 43 vintages and shows little sign of abdicating. The Dauphin, Pierre, is now firmly and patiently ensconced. All the grapes were destemmed in 2013 and the harvest was not completed until October 13th; quality is good however, very good indeed.

The limestone from the Méal vineyard informs the style this year; that is to say it is feminine, charming, linear and long. It’s a shame that the availability is so short, however, as only eight barrels were made. None of the fruit was destemmed, a fact which is hard to believe sometimes, such is the silky texture of this very fine wine. There is something in the region of eight percent Marsanne in this wine, it seems.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman.

This famous single vineyard fared well in 2013, with less hail experienced than further along the Mercurol plain. Concentration, ripe black fruit and a hint of rigour underwrite typicity and ageing potential with great skill. Drink 2016 to 2020.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

When he is not piloting himself and Jean- Michel Gerin to their joint venture in Priorat, the amiable Laurent Combier works hard, and with great success, to develop the international profile of Crozes-Hermitage. Experimentation in the winery, where vinification may take place in a variety of vessels, including concrete eggs, allied to a keen sense of the under-appreciated differences in terroir in the appellation, have ensured that his wines maintain their primacy. They are always ripe, fruity and balanced, as achieved in 2013 despite the hail and resulting low yields.

We especially liked L’Amarybelle this year; the organic rigour of the tending of its vines echoed in the glass with a rare purity and no lack of charm. Dark fruits and soft spices are buttressed by finely etched tannins and crisp acidity. Hints of eucalypt and mint at the back of the palate enhance the wine yet further.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Dynamic and energetic, Yves sometimes gives the impression of trying too hard: there is so much activity and so many wines, why can’t the message be clearer? Well, my message is clear and it underlines the overall quality of the range, proved once again by a recent (late 2014) Decanter tasting which put M Cuilleron's Côte Rôtie on its own at the very top of the tree. Pragmatism over the hot topic of destemming and a general inclination to harvest late are cited as two cornerstones of the Cuilleron philosophy. Yves praises the equilibrium of his 2013 whites, and is pleased with both the colour and the tannic structure of his reds.

The Bessenon vineyard is located next to an eponymous stream, which flows through the southern commune of Tupin-Semons. With soil based on gneiss and granite, the wine contains 10 percent of Viognier, and is, stylistically, from the more elegant and floral end of the spectrum. The 2013 will have been aged in barrique for 18 months on release and boasts the elegant violet aromatics that one has come to love from this appellation.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Dynamic and energetic, Yves sometimes gives the impression of trying too hard: there is so much activity and so many wines, why can’t the message be clearer? Well, my message is clear and it underlines the overall quality of the range, proved once again by a recent (late 2014) Decanter tasting which put M Cuilleron's Côte Rôtie on its own at the very top of the tree. Pragmatism over the hot topic of destemming and a general inclination to harvest late are cited as two cornerstones of the Cuilleron philosophy. Yves praises the equilibrium of his 2013 whites, and is pleased with both the colour and the tannic structure of his reds.

Child of two parcels (Beaumes and Le Méal) Le Reverdy is a 50-50 blend of Roussanne and Marsanne, fermented and aged in barrels, some larger than others, mostly two or three years old. The nose recalls nectarine, beeswax and hints of cinnamon. The palate is equally complex, with Marsanne’s textured calling card presaging a lengthy, fascinating evolution.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here.

Completing a trifecta of perfect whites, the 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite Blanc is another sensational effort that offers incredible minerality/liquid rock in its pineapple, tangerine, flower oil, mint and caramelized citrus-driven bouquet. Full-bodied and beautiful on the palate, with more tension and focus than the Cuvee de L’Orée or le Meal, it has perfectly balanced richness, structure and freshness, with no hard edges and a blockbuster finish. It won't be accessible for another 3-4 years and will most likely be immortal in the cellar.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014 More closed than its junior siblings in youth, L’Ermite will come round over time with a Montrachet-like self-assurance. The sine qua non of Marsanne, or, quite possibly, of all white wines, this is an outstanding wine, and more than justifies Michel’s often outspoken but seldom unsuccessful quest for perfection.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill

Even better, the sensational 2013 Condrieu les Vieilles Vignes de Jacques Vernay (not to be confused with George Vernay) comes from the granite soils of the La Combe lieu-dit, which is in the southern part of the appellation. Riper, richer and even more concentrated than the Combe de Malleval, it has awesome white peach, honeyed tangerine, white flowers and crushed rock to go with a seamless, elegant, full-bodied and mouth-filling profile on the palate. One of the vintage's greatest successes, it will drink well for 3-4 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014 One of the greatest of all Condrieus, its full name, appropriately enough, deferential to a member of the extended Vernay family, this wine is sourced from vines that were planted in 1948. Aged partly in 350-litre barrels and partly in larger 16-hectolitre foudres, the 2013 is rich yet energetic, spicy yet focused, with hints of exotic orange-like fruit tempered by a finish which recalls smoke and peat; a pleasing recollection of course.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.

Stéphane is confident that Seyssuel will eventually get its own Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, although not, it seems, before having to pass through a stage as a humble Côtes du Rhône. No matter; he has done more than anyone to raise the profile of these rediscovered ancient vines. Their soils resemble Côte Blonde and their aspect approximates that of Hermitage. The happy coincidence of these features has fathered a wine of aromatic harmony and great latent power.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.

The barrel tasting chez Ogier is by turns entertaining and rewarding; Stéphane describes his Syrah from Côte Baudin, for example, as a ‘fake blonde’, the wine is far more floral than the vineyard a little further up the hill, Layat, which also features in the blend. The stalwarts of Besset, Fongeant, Champon and Viallière are joined this year by a new holding in Montmain. The wine is appropriately complex, floral, ‘aérien’ and with supple, sweet fruit and precise, very fine tannins. Drink 2017 to 2024.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.

Decomposed schist, known locally as ‘arzelle’, hosts the tiny Rostaing holdings on the Côte Blonde. Ageing provides in Demi-muid a perfect, subtle foil for the unparalleled elegance of this wine; pure piercing Syrah dark-fruit descriptors lead to a dense yet composed palate, a pleasing paradox of potential.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Gnomic and somewhat whimsical at times, René has been playing his own tune for 43 vintages and shows little sign of abdicating. The Dauphin, Pierre, is now firmly and patiently ensconced. All the grapes were destemmed in 2013 and the harvest was not completed until October 13th; quality is good however, very good indeed.
Reductive and hard to read aromatically, the 2013 Cote Rotie Cote Blonde nevertheless has more stuffing, concentration and depth on the palate than the la Landonne. As normal, it keeps things slightly closer to the vest aromatically in its youth, yet the quality shows on the palate. Again, the ripeness, texture, voluptuousness and tannin quality that Rene was able to achieve in 2013 is superior to just about every other estate. I've no doubt this will show beautifully from bottle and be a mid-90s or better scoring effort.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

Arguably the most iconic dry Riesling on the planet, Trimbach’s Clos St Hune is a 1.67-hectare vineyard that produces approximately just 8,000 bottles a year. It is traditionally aged for five years in the cellar after bottling, before release, and in great vintages, it is capable of drinking beautifully for another half century.

The 2011 is a classically styled vintage of this great Riesling. Not as exuberant as some warmer vintages, presently the wine is relatively taut with beautiful minerality. It still has the slightly glossy, polished palate-weight of this iconic wine. I expect it to open out in the next couple of years and drink for 20 more.

The vines for this wine are located mainly in the lieux-dits of Chaillot and Les Reynards. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then matured in cask for 18 months. Stylish and feminine, the wine has a high-toned dark fruit and plush, expensive tannins; the perfume is memorable as with all great wines from this oft misunderstood appellation.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Albéric Mazoyer, the charismatic sidekick to Alain Voge, is positive about 2013: there was no hail in Cornas and the late growing cycle was actually beneficial in this, the warmest of the northern enclaves, concentrating flavour but eschewing excess of any kind. The results are as spectacular as the volumes are scant.