1979 Alsace

From the Bédarrides commune in the south-east of the appellation, Croix de Bois is a monovarietal Grenache, and one which is seemingly careless of some of the problems which beset that varietal in 2013. Reserved at the moment than the wine has plenty of matière, spice and poised tannin, ensuring that its evolution will be fascinating to follow.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill.


In the same ballpark, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois has a softer, more upfront and textured feel then the Barbe Rac, which always seems to me to be slightly more serious and focused. Giving up loads of jammy blackberry and assorted darker fruits, licorice, and wild herbs, this full-bodied, ripe and layered effort makes the most of the vintage. It will drink nicely on release and dish out plenty of pleasure through 2023.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

Le Méal is in a slight dip on the hill and has a little more limestone in its profile, although granite still dominates as it always does in Hermitage. Damien ferments this in concrete tank, which allows what he describes as a ‘better thermic inertia’, whatever that may mean. It seems to have worked, however, as the wine, even in youth, is feminine and silky, its power latent, panther-like and poised.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here.



Lastly, the 2013 Hermitage le Meal is the darkest colored of the Hermitage releases and exhibits smoking notes of tar and melted asphalt, crushed rock, leather and smoked dark fruits. It's a big, full-bodied, chewy effort that stays fresh, balanced and pure. It's another beautiful wine from this estate that will have 20-25 years of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

From the north of the Côte Blonde, just above the town of Ampuis and not far from the famous Guigal Single Vineyards, this is 100 percent Syrah, confirming that Michel does not really believe in blended wines, not in the north of the valley at least. From soils made up of mica schist, loess and iron oxide, this is a beautifully crafted wine, with feline Syrah elegance and a silky veil of tannin.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill
 

Looking at Michel's 2013 Cote Rotie la Mordoree, it has a peppery, floral, lavender and black-raspberry-driven bouquet to go with medium to full-bodied richness on the palate. Ripe, nicely concentrated and balanced, with juicy acidity, it has a classic style and will benefit from short-term cellaring. It should have two decades of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

Beneath the famous chapel, but still part of the solid granite Bessards commune, the Pavillon is so-named in reference to the ruins of an old stone house. The wine is dense, sinewy and long, with distinctive black cherry fruit, liquorice and cigar box evidenced. Twenty percent new oak is worn with nonchalance, but adds subtle texture to the ensemble.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill. Moving to the 2013 Ermitage le Pavillon, it has terrific depth, density and concentration to go with layers of crème de cassis, Asian spice, toasted bread, licorice and the essence of granite-induced minerality. While this vintage produced more fresh, firm wines, this has a generosity and sexiness that defines the stereotype. Nevertheless, I suspect short-term cellaring will be required for it to be approachable, and it will have a long life.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

No ‘Confiance’ was made in 2013, to the benefit of the Prestige, which has perfumed aromatics and a very fine texture. The hills behind the village have provided the fruit, which is ripe and dominated by notes of tapenade, spice and hints of black cherry. A conspicuous success in what was not generally a conspicuously successful vintage in Rasteau. Drink 2016 to 2019.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

The irrepressible André Roméro was lessthan- entirely complimentary about the 2013 vintage when we visited in November of that year. Twelve months later, his opinion has been moderated a little-more by empirical observation than by commercial imperative, one is inclined to infer. Be that as it may, the disequilibrium and dilution which he feared have not materialised; indeed quite the reverse in some instances, as the blends take on the more robust characteristics of varietals which are sometimes referred to-not without reason-as ‘cépages améliorateurs’.

There is a school of thought which, quite reasonably, worries that there are so many cuvées being made by Michel in Hermitage that this famous name may be in some way compromised. This is both to under-estimate the overall quality of the Chapoutier holdings on the hill and also to misunderstand the fact that this, alone, is the blended Hermitage cuvée, and therefore still has its own very special place in the Chapoutier canon. The 2013 proves this rather eloquently; ripe, seductive raspberry flavours with classic notes of gibier and sousbois, very firm but ripe tannins and a strong finish.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Michel Chapoutier is now the president of Inter-Rhône, which, we suggest, is very good news for Inter-Rhône, such is his energy and appetite for lively debate. The enormous new winery next to the motorway has his name written on the side in such large letters that it is probably visible from the moon, let alone the fast lane of the A7. Beyond the vanity, the classic cars, the helicopters and the bluff exterior, there is an engaging personality, a very capable businessman and, most importantly by far, a superb winemaker.

Domaine Saint Préfert is a Châteauneuf-du-Pape A-lister. Isabel Ferrando’s vines are mainly located in the southern sector; her modus operandus is fairly traditional. Her outlook and temperament, however, fall into the more modern camp, as manifested by the multiplicity of differing cuvées – all, thankfully, pleasingly different from each other. Made only in magnum, yet in minute quantities, this particular wine is the appellation’s most eloquent celebration of the Clairette grape, hitherto somewhat underappreciated but historically significant.

Sourced from old vines in an enclave of Les Serres and barrel-fermented, the wine is full-bodied and rich, with almond, brioche and verbena notes which recall a Marsanne, or maybe its rather more urbane cousin.
Tasted as a barrel sample, Ferrando’s 2013 Châteaueuf du Pape Cuvee Speciale Vieilles Vignes (Clairette) is stunning. Made from old-vine Clairette vines in the Les Serres lieu-dit that wasn’t harvested until October 12, it’s similar in style to the classic cuvee, yet has additional toast, brioche and honeysuckle to go with medium to full-bodied richness, fabulous purity of fruit and terrific length through the finish. Bottled only in magnum, drink this blockbuster white anytime over the coming decade.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

More closed than its junior siblings in youth, L’Ermite will come round over time with a Montrachet-like self-assurance. The sine qua non of Marsanne, or, quite possibly, of all white wines, this is an outstanding wine, and more than justifies Michel’s often outspoken but seldom unsuccessful quest for perfection.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill Completing a trifecta of perfect whites, the 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite Blanc is another sensational effort that offers incredible minerality/liquid rock in its pineapple, tangerine, flower oil, mint and caramelized citrus-driven bouquet. Full-bodied and beautiful on the palate, with more tension and focus than the Cuvee de L’Orée or le Meal, it has perfectly balanced richness, structure and freshness, with no hard edges and a blockbuster finish. It won't be accessible for another 3-4 years and will most likely be immortal in the cellar.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

From vines located in the parcel of Les Murets, this is a ripe expression of 100 percent Marsanne, its nutty texture backed by a youthful, almost tropical ebullience, its seductive aromatics dominated by blonde tobacco, fennel and sour honey. The puppy fat will fall away with time allowing even greater complexity to confirm initial qualitative suspicions.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill. Leading off three single-vintage whites from Hermitage, the stunning 2013 Ermitage Cuvee de L’Orée has an off-the-hook bouquet that includes just about everything you could think of when considering Hermitage Blanc. White peach, white flowers, almond paste, quince and wet rock are just some of the nuances, and it packs a serious punch on the palate, with full-bodied richness, a flamboyant, expansive texture and riveting focus and purity. Give it a year or so and drink it over the following 2-3 decades.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

As you climb towards the chapel the soil gets thinner and thinner until all that is left is pure granite; and purity is certainly a key descriptor for L’Ermite in 2013. Parsimonious yields and minimal intervention are responsible for this, the definitive statement of Syrah, a wine that effortlessly combines charm and austerity, simplicity and encyclopaedic complexity, reticence and expansive poetry.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill. The 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite is another wine that’s a candidate for the wine of the vintage, if not the best wine produced in all of France in 2013. As normal, it has an insane level of minerality, and frankly, I know of no better description of “liquid rock” than the mineral-like sensation induced by tasting this cuvee. Graphite, charcoal, licorice and sweet crème de cassis also all emerge from the glass. This gorgeous 2013 has full-bodied richness, terrific purity, ripe tannin structure and serious intensity. Give it 4-5 years and drink bottles over the following 2-3 decades.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

The Landonne vines are venerable, some dating back to the 1920s and all made up of Syrah only. Ageing is for 24 months and is shared between demi-muids (550-litre barrels) and older Burgundian pièces, a small percentage of which are new. René detects less of the ‘oxide de fer’ character this year, which translates in the glass into a rich, spicy wine, with complex red fruit nuances and immense power on the finish: archetypal l Landonne in other words.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Gnomic and somewhat whimsical at times, René has been playing his own tune for 43 vintages and shows little sign of abdicating. The Dauphin, Pierre, is now firmly and patiently ensconced. All the grapes were destemmed in 2013 and the harvest was not completed until October 13th; quality is good however, very good indeed.
A big step up over the Ampodium, the 2013 Cote Rotie la Landonne is a muscular, mineral and iron-laced 2013 that has lots of black and blue fruits, crushed rock, pepper and ground herb-like qualities all emerging from the glass. Shockingly good on the palate, it has full-bodied richness, lots of mid-palate depth and a plenty of structure. It will need a decade of cellaring, but be worth it.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

Domaine Montirius is one of the stars of the Gigondas appellation, and deservedly so, judged by the care afforded to its wines by Christine and Eric Saurel. They represent the fifth generation to work this 57-hectare domaine. Low-yielding old vines on optimal soil provide the perfect raw materials, and a careful three-week maceration allows the full expression of the terroir. Their patient methodology is rewarded with superb expressions of terroir.

Domaine Montirius is one of the stars of the appellation, and deservedly so, judged by the care afforded to its wines by Christine and Eric Saurel. They represent the fifth generation to work this 57-hectare domaine. Low-yielding old vines on optimal soil provide the perfect raw materials, and a careful three-week maceration allows the full expression of the terroir. Their patient methodology is rewarded with superb expressions of terroir.
Similarly styled, the 2013 Gigondas Confidentiel has high quality aromas and flavors of black raspberry, cassis and leafy herbs, medium to full-bodied richness and a rounded, supple, sweetly fruited style that’s already hard to resist. I love the purity here, and it has fine tannin that frame the finish, all suggesting it will evolve gracefully. Made from 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre, it should drink nicely through 2023.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 (Part 2) Jan 2015

On tasting this last November one felt that it was sulking. M Sorrel agreed, with a gentle shrug, and advised that this was not necessarily a bad sign. Sure enough, the next encounter, in February, was a much happier affair. Beneath the still somewhat inscrutable exterior there is a fruit profile which recalls damson, plum and myrtle with whispers of cinnamon and black pepper. The majority of the vines are located just behind the railway station at Tain, therefore on the lower slope.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman.


A solid step up over the Crozes Hermitage, the 2013 Hermitage is a classic, classy effort that exhibits quality notes of pepper, iron, wet rock and sweet dark fruits. It has medium-bodied richness, bright acidity and firm tannin, all suggesting short-term cellaring.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

The Bessenon vineyard is located next to an eponymous stream, which flows through the southern commune of Tupin-Semons. With soil based on gneiss and granite, the wine contains 10 percent of Viognier, and is, stylistically, from the more elegant and floral end of the spectrum. The 2013 will have been aged in barrique for 18 months on release and boasts the elegant violet aromatics that one has come to love from this appellation.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Dynamic and energetic, Yves sometimes gives the impression of trying too hard: there is so much activity and so many wines, why can’t the message be clearer? Well, my message is clear and it underlines the overall quality of the range, proved once again by a recent (late 2014) Decanter tasting which put M Cuilleron's Côte Rôtie on its own at the very top of the tree. Pragmatism over the hot topic of destemming and a general inclination to harvest late are cited as two cornerstones of the Cuilleron philosophy. Yves praises the equilibrium of his 2013 whites, and is pleased with both the colour and the tannic structure of his reds.

Muenchberg Grand Cru Riesling remains André’s flagship wine: a perfect match of vine and site. Only 3km from the winery, with a shading forest above and a cooling stream at its feet, the vineyard’s volcanic and pink sandstone imbue Riesling with minerality and flesh respectively. Still a baby, everything under wraps, held ever so tightly, yet the latent power, poise and angelic shape of this wine is discernible. Defined by a dry, salty backdrop that André searches for, as evidence of deep-rooted minerality (and encouraged by biodynamic viticulture).
David Berry Green

The barrel tasting chez Ogier is by turns entertaining and rewarding; Stéphane describes his Syrah from Côte Baudin, for example, as a ‘fake blonde’, the wine is far more floral than the vineyard a little further up the hill, Layat, which also features in the blend. The stalwarts of Besset, Fongeant, Champon and Viallière are joined this year by a new holding in Montmain. The wine is appropriately complex, floral, ‘aérien’ and with supple, sweet fruit and precise, very fine tannins. Drink 2017 to 2024.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.

Arguably the most iconic dry Riesling on the planet, Trimbach’s Clos St Hune is a 1.67-hectare vineyard that produces approximately just 8,000 bottles a year. It is traditionally aged for five years in the cellar after bottling, before release, and in great vintages, it is capable of drinking beautifully for another half century.

The 2011 is a classically styled vintage of this great Riesling. Not as exuberant as some warmer vintages, presently the wine is relatively taut with beautiful minerality. It still has the slightly glossy, polished palate-weight of this iconic wine. I expect it to open out in the next couple of years and drink for 20 more.