2006 Alsace

The quality of this much sought after dry Riesling stems from Trimbach’s 1.67ha walled ‘clos’ within Hunawihr’s Grand Cru Rosacker, which, arguably more significantly still, shares the same soil as (Zind-Humbrecht’s) Clos Windsbuhl and those of Puligny-Montracht: the mushelcalk, an inactive calcium limestone. The result is a wet stone purity which permeates throughout the wine, giving it a fabulously racy quality, despite the trickier 2006 season, whose torrid final months have provided a tropical, slightly mushroom character to the wine. Drinking 2013 – 2026.
David Berry Green, Alsace Buyer

The Trimbach family is one of France’s greatest winemaking dynasties, having made wine in Alsace for almost four centuries (since 1626) based in the picturesque town of Ribeauvillé. If Domaine Zind-Humbrecht produces wines of extravagant power at one end of the spectrum of excellence within Alsace wine making, then Trimbach definitely stands at the other extreme – “Restraint” is their watchword.

The Trimbach style is summed-up perfectly by Hubert Trimbach: “Concentrated not heavy; fruity, not sweet; bracing rather than fat; polite rather than voluptuous. Trimbach wines are reserved, steely, elegant, even aristocratic; never obvious or flashy. We are Protestants. Our wines have the Protestant style – vigour, firmness, a beautiful acidity, lovely freshness. Purity and cleanness, that’s Trimbach.” For those weary of the residual sugar found in so many of the contemporary Alsace wines, Trimbach’s are a refuge.

As the family moves into its 13th generation, with Pierre’s daughter Anne now working in the business (and Jean’s son Julian studying vine science at Dijon), Maison Trimbach remains a byword for fine dry Alsace Riesling. Famously controversial for opting out of the Grand Cru classification back in 1975, on account of the overly generous y Their brands of (Riesling) Cuvee Frederic Emile, (Pinot Gris) Reserve Personelle and (Gewurztraminer) Cuvee des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre remain central to the range, made from both their own and bought in fruit; they remain a clear step up in quality and finesse from the fruitier ‘Reserve’ lines. Clos Ste.Hune is the estate’s finest Riesling, from a 1.67ha ‘clos’ within Grand Cru Rosacker; the provenance readily communicated but still absent from the label. So as winemaker Pierre Trimbach signs off his 34th vintage in charge, this is still very much an estate to watch. These wines are considered the benchmark for quality, consistency and style. The essence of Trimbach, with the obvious exception of the luscious Vendage Tardive and SGN wines, is the traditional dry style in which the wines are made.

As with other wines originating from the single Clos Windsbuhl vineyard (one that famously missed out on 'Grand Cru' status due to not being submitted!), one's struck by the cool minerally energy, a wine that speaks more of the soil than the fruit per se. The 10 month long ferment tailed off leaving an off-dry style with 49 grams of residual, yet the palate is fantastically focused, charged with bristling electricity, leaving an oh! so cleansing pear purity. Needs time, till 2014 to see its best. Great with creamy veal or white meat platters.
(David Berry Green )