Critics reviews
Olly Smith - Mail on Sunday - 07-Dec-2013
About this WINE
Pulenta Estate
Pulenta Estate is owned and run by brothers, Hugo and Eduardo Pulenta. The estate is situated in Alto Agrelo in Mendoza, Argentina's main wine producing region. This excellent site makes wines of real class and distinction.
The 135 hectares are planted with Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, these varieties are used as both single varieties and blended to make wines such as the excellent Gran Corte.
Pulenta enjoys excellent climate conditions and a fantastic panoramic aspect from up to 980 metres above sea level. Irrigation comes from melted water from the Andes Mountains, and the whole process is de facto organic! The Pulenta family make excellent Malbec, increasingly recognised as Argentina's signature grape variety, enhancing its natural exuberant fruitiness with discipline and structure. The Estate Chardonnay benefiting from a completely manual harvest and barrel fermentation in French wood.
The brothers' philosophy is expressed thus: "Making a great wine is an act of generosity, considering always the one who will taste it. Our mission is to produce limited series of great wines, proudly made in Argentina."
Mendoza
With its western borderline dominated by the Andes and its 146,000 hectares of vineyards representing 70% of the country’s wine production, Mendoza is Argentina’s biggest and most important wine-growing province.
Mendoza’s vineyards are a haven to Old World varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo, Bonarda, Sangiovese, Barbera, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc. The province’s signature grape is Malbec.
Mendoza still produces large amounts of inexpensive wine for domestic consumption, as well as grape concentrate, but the sub-region of Luján de Cuyo stands out with some lovely velvety Malbecs, while the cool, gravelly Maipú is best for Cabernet Sauvignon.
The most exciting area in Mendoza for fine whites, however, is the Uco Valley, that has the highest vineyards, up to 1,200 metres above sea level. Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Chenin, Pinot Grigio and Torrontés fare particularly well in its cool climate. Its sub-region of Tupungato produces Argentina’s best Chardonnay.
Cabernet Sauvignon Blend
Cabernet Sauvignon lends itself particularly well in blends with Merlot. This is actually the archetypal Bordeaux blend, though in different proportions in the sub-regions and sometimes topped up with Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot.
In the Médoc and Graves the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend can range from 95% (Mouton-Rothschild) to as low as 40%. It is particularly suited to the dry, warm, free- draining, gravel-rich soils and is responsible for the redolent cassis characteristics as well as the depth of colour, tannic structure and pronounced acidity of Médoc wines. However 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wines can be slightly hollow-tasting in the middle palate and Merlot with its generous, fleshy fruit flavours acts as a perfect foil by filling in this cavity.
In St-Emilion and Pomerol, the blends are Merlot dominated as Cabernet Sauvignon can struggle to ripen there - when it is included, it adds structure and body to the wine. Sassicaia is the most famous Bordeaux blend in Italy and has spawned many imitations, whereby the blend is now firmly established in the New World and particularly in California and Australia.
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Description
The Holy Grail of vinous sophistication is undoubtedly the Bordeaux blend. The Gran Corte employs all but Cabernet Franc from the Bordelais canon and the result is stunning. The precise blend is 37% Malbec, 27% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc, aged for a year in 100% new French oak..
With a deep plum-red colour, a richly expressive nose which marries spice and cherry, and a structured and sophisticated palate, with black cherry, mocha and blackcurrant coming through, this is a great success. Of Cru Classé quality, but with an additional touch of Latin warmth, this is a great wine to accompany guinea fowl or venison.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
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