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2010 Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Richmone, Ultra, Domaine Perrot-Minot
Scores and Reviews
Christophe Perrot-Minot took over from his father Henri in 1993. Part of the estate stems from the acquisition of Domaine Pernin-Rossin in 2000 while the remainder comes down from maternal grandfather Merme, which explains the similarity of holdings to Domaine Taupenot-Merme over the road. In addition to the domaine wines listed below, various other vineyards, most notably the various grands crus of Gevrey-Chambertin, are made from purchased grapes under the same label but without the word ‘domaine’.
The winemaking begins with exceptionally vigorous sorting of the grapes, first in the vineyard and then on two tables de tri. The grapes are destemmed before one week of cool pre-maceration, followed by fermentation with pumping over preferred to punching down, especially for the more fine-boned appellations such as Chambolle-Musigny. Maturation takes place over 12 to 14 months without racking, in barrels from the Tronçais and Allier forests supplied by tonnellerie Rémond, with 25 per cent new wood for village wines, 40 per cent for premiers crus and 50 per cent for the grands crus.
Two of the premiers crus, Chambolle-Musigny Combe d’Orveau and Nuits-St-Georges La Richemone come in regular vieilles vignes and ‘ultra’ versions from exceptionally ancient vines.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
Originally known as Nuits, or even Nuits-sous-Beaune, the town was happy to add the name of its finest vineyard, Les St Georges, in the 19th century. There are no Grands Crus, but many fine Premier Cru vineyards, the mayor of the time – Henri Gouges – preferring not to single out any vineyard for the highest status.The wines of Nuits-St Georges vary according to their exact provenance. Those of the hamlet of Prémeaux, considered to be part of Nuits-St Georges for viticultural purposes, are often on the lighter side.
The richest and most sought-after are those just south of Nuits-St Georges such as Les Vaucrains, Les Cailles and Les St Georges itself. The third sector, including Les Murgers, Les Damodes and Les Boudots are at the Vosne-Romanée end of the village, and demonstrate some of the extra finesse associated with Vosne.
Several domaines (Gouges, Rion, Arlot) now produce a white Nuits-St Georges from Pinot Blanc or Chardonnay.
- 175 hectares of village Nuits-St Georges
- 143 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (20 in all). Best vineyards include Les St Georges, and Clos des Argillières and Clos de la Maréchale in Prémeaux
- Recommended producers: Gouges, Rion, Liger Belair, Potel
- Recommended restaurant : La Cabotte (small but stylish)