Critics reviews
Antonio Galloni - Wine Advocate #203 - Oct 2012
About this WINE
Proprieta Sperino
Lessona
Lessona is a DOC viticultural zone in the Province of Biella in the Italian wine region Piedmont, located about 70 kilometres (43 mi) northeast of Turin. Like its most illustrious DOCG neighbours Barolo and Barbaresco, Lessona produces red wines from the region's signature Nebbiolo grape variety. Bonarda and Vespolina grapes have traditionally been used to mellow Nebbiolo's robust character with their fruitier characteristics. Its immediate neighbors are Carema to the west, Bramaterra to the east and Gattinara and Ghemme (both DOCGs).
Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo is the grape behind the Barolo and Barbaresco wines and is hardly ever seen outside the confines of Piedmont. It takes its name from "nebbia" which is Italian for fog, a frequent phenomenon in the region.
A notoriously pernickety grape, it requires sheltered south-facing sites and performs best on the well-drained calcareous marls to the north and south of Alba in the DOCG zones of Barbaresco and Barolo.
Langhe Nebbiolo is effectively the ‘second wine’ of Piedmont’s great Barolo & Barbarescos. This DOC is the only way Langhe producers can declassify their Barolo or Barbaresco fruit or wines to make an early-drinking style. Unlike Nebbiolo d’Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo can be cut with 15% other red indigenous varieties, such as Barbera or Dolcetto.
Nebbiolo flowers early and ripens late, so a long hang time, producing high levels of sugar, acidity and tannins; the challenge being to harvest the fruit with these three elements ripe and in balance. The best Barolos and Barbarescos are perfumed with aromas of tar, rose, mint, chocolate, liquorice and truffles. They age brilliantly and the very best need ten years to show at their best.
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Description
The 2008 Lessona is a serious, serious wine endowed with superb depth and textural richness. Today the tannins are a bit firm, and the wine is, of course, very young, but there is no denying the sheer finesse and pedigree of what is in the glass. Juicy dark cherries, plums, graphite, mint and sweet herbs flesh out beautifully as the 2008 continues to open up. This is a dazzling effort from the De Marchis and Proprieta Sperino. I can’t wait to see how the 2008 ages.
Antonio Galloni - Wine Advocate #203 - Oct 2012
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