Critics reviews
Although highly ranked as a ‘première cuvée’ in Dr Jules Lavalle’s influential 19th century book, Histoire et Statistique de la Vigne et des Grands Vins de la Côte d’Or, Renée Cosson, owner for 40 years from the late 1930s, did not seek grand cru status, to avoid the associated increase in taxes. Although surrounded by grand cru appellations in Morey-St-Denis, Cosson’s neglect of the estate up until 1977 did not help its reputation. Following massive investment in order to modernise and replant the estate, the Saier brothers’ application for grand cru status was approved in April 1981.
Clos des Lambrays is the steepest of the Morey grand crus, the slope clearly looking over Clos de Tart. The Clos is made up of three main vineyard areas, each with its own distinct terroir. The first, 1ha of heavier clay and large loam soil at the bottom called Meix Rentier. The second, Les Larrets, is 5.72ha, and in the mid-slope heart of the vineyard, which Lavalle had ranked ‘première cuvée’ since it has the best exposure to the sun. Finally there is Les Bouchots, 1.99ha, at the top, which brings ‘elegance’ to the wine.
Among vineyards in the area, Clos des Lambrays contains the highest percentage of rocky, red soil, rich in iron oxide, in the upper part of the vineyard, which could explain the more elegant, cooler blue fruit and mineral-driven expression, compared with the bigger, dark-fruit driven nature of Clos de Tart. That Brouin enjoys picking earlier than all his neig
About this SPIRIT
Domaine des Lambrays
Domaine des Lambrays was established in 1363 yet it was only in 1981 that this climat was finally promoted to Grand Cru. The estate was purchased in 1996 by the Freune family and since then dramatic changes have taken place, leading to an upsurge in quality. At 8.8 hectares, this is the largest Grand Cru parcel in Burgundy under one proprietor.
As well as the grand cru itself, the Domaine also owns vines in premier cru and village vineyards in Morey, and since 1993, two premier cru vineyards in Puligny Montrachet, les Folatières and Clos du Cailleret, purchased from Domaine Chartron.
Winemaker Jacques Devauges has been in charge since 1979. The vineyards are run on more or less organic lines, with no chemical anti-rot sprays, and ploughing of the soil by horse. In the cellar, he likes to use the majority of the stems, favours punching down over pumping over, and prefers to restrain the amount of new oak – around 50% for the grand cru. The produce of young vines is downgraded to Morey St Denis 1er cru where it joins the fruit of tiny holdings of La Riotte and Le Village. The village Morey comes from La Riotte, Clos Solon, Les Larreys and especially La Bidaude which lies just above the Clos des Lambrays.
Domaine des Lambrays produces wines which possess balance, power and finesse and which fully live up to their Grand Cru status.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.
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Description
The Fine de Bourgogne Brandy is made of wines from Clos des Lambrays (1986 and 1987). The production is the same as with Cognac. This Brandy matured during 7 years in a oak barrel and received thereby its natural colour. The bottling takes place without any filtration and reduction of the alcohol level which is 49%.
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