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Palomino, named after Fernan Yanez Palomonio, one of King Alfonso X`s knights, is the primary grape variety for Sherry styles (Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado, Oloroso, Palo Cortado) production.
It is a high yielding variety that is widely planted in Spain producing mostly insipid thin, dull wines lacking in fruit and acidity. However it thrives on the predominantly chalk based soils of Cadiz where it produces large bunches of golden yellow grapes, which ripen in early September. The resulting must is transparent in colour and somewhat neutral in flavour, but the subsequent wine can develop a coating of flor before maturing in the solera system and produce a whole range of intense and aromatic sherries. It is also grown in South Africa, California, and Australia where it is fortified to make sherry-style wines.
Sherry is probably the most under-valued fine wine in the world (very fortunate, as I average a bottle a week – or thereabouts), with levels of complexity and persistence that would command a ten-fold increase in price were they sourced from Bordeaux or Burgundy.
Berry Bros. & Rudd Dry Oloroso has a nose suggestive of something sweet, with its notes of walnuts and dried fruit, so the lack of sweetness on the palate is initially something of a shock. As the layers of flavour unfold in your mouth, this is clearly a very different wine from a more commercial sweetened cream Sherry. In addition to the nuts and raisined-depth, there is a haunting toffee-sweetness on the palate of this dry wine. The finish persists for an age. When to drink this gem: before dinner with some salted almonds or olives works, as does afterwards, with some walnuts. Oloroso is also surprisingly good with robust meat dishes. The oxidative aging on this wine means that, unlike Fino or Manzanilla – which should be consumed within a day or so of opening – this wine will continue to give pleasure for up to a week after first being broached. Martin Hudson MW
Bottle 12 x 75cl41cs
Family-owned and much decorated, Bodegas Emilio Lustau have been making superlative sherries since 1896. This Amontillado, especially blended for us and classically aged in Jerez de la Frontera, expertly captures vestigial freshness from the flor yeast, which has been allowed to die, in return adding colour, texture and complex malty hazelnut flavours to an unnervingly complex ensemble.Simon Field MW – Buyer
Bottle 6 x 75cl85cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl19cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl11cs
H/Litre 6 x 50cl9cs
H/Litre 6 x 50cl11cs
H/Litre 6 x 50cl6cs
H/Litre 6 x 50cl2cs