About this WINE
Domaine des Forges
Third generation Claude and his son, Stéphane Branchereau at Domaine des Forges, aim to make sweet Chenin Blancs that are rich, pure and quivering with energy. This they manage not only because of their enormous talent but also thanks to steep, schistous slopes, fastidious vineyard work, harvesting by tri, low yields (rarely above 25 hectolitres per hectare) and vinifying the wines parcel by parcel.
Such is the concentration and freshness of fruit obtained in their wines, that they cope easily with up to 50% new oak, albeit in large 450 litre barrels. 'Quelle réussite!', as they would say.
Chenin Blanc
Chenin Blanc is an important white grape variety planted in the Anjou-Saumur and Touraine regions of the Loire Valley and the most widely planted varietal grape in South Africa.
In the Loire it produces high quality dry wines in Savenniéres, and luscious sweet, dessert wines in Coteaux du Layon, Bonnezeaux and Quarts de Chaume. In Vouvray and Montlouis it can be dry, medium dry, or sweet, and still or sparkling. Whether dry or sweet, the best Loire Chenin Blancs possess marvellously concentrated rich, honeyed fruit together with refreshingly vibrant acidity. It is Chenin Blanc's high acidity that enable the wines to age so well.
In South Africa Chenin Blanc is easier to grow and is prized for its versatility. It is used as a cheap blending option with Chardonnay, Colombard, and Muscat but also bottled unblended. The best producers keep their yields low and produce impressive mouthfilling wines.
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Description
We're seeing many more finer examples of Anjou Blanc (dry) than in the past as the new generation of producers err away from blending Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc with the Chenin Blanc (which is legal if self-defeating) and focus on bottling 100% Chenin. Stephane Branchereau is one such producer who's called time on the old practices...which is perhaps why he's named this wine 'L'Audace' on account of his derring-do!
We're thrilled as it treats us to this part tonneau fermented, part malo, straw gold beauty, with its crystal clear, distinctive bright cider apple notes, a calling card of Chenin Blanc - here very sensitively made. I love the roll of fruit, of apple core flavours, of pips even, reflecting its true, organic fruit and purity. Dry to taste, this is a fabulous expression of Loire Chenin Blanc, with nothing added nor taken away. Drinking now and great with leek quiche!
David Berry Green
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