2020 LG Valbuxán, Tinto, Telmo Rodríguez, Valdeorras, Spain
Critics reviews
The second vintage of the red from Valdeorras is the 2020 Lg. Valbuxan (Lugar de Valbuxan, a place from O Bolo). It comes through as austere and serious, a little closed but unmistakably Valdeorras with that combination of wild berries, flowers and herbs. The wine has contained ripeness at 13% alcohol, with restraint and balance. It was produced with a blend of grapes—Mencía, Merenzao, Sousón (a little more this year; it's a grape with very good acidity, the only one fermented separately), Garnacha, Godello and Brancellao—from different vineyards in different zones of the banks of the Bibei River. It's medium-bodied with fine-gained tannins and has a gentle mouthfeel. It's an improvement over the previous vintage. After the wine spent 15 months in 1,500- and 2,000-liter oak foudres, 9,165 bottles were filled in June 2022.
Drink 2023 - 2027
Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate (November 2023)
A juicy and savory red with plum, berry and cherry aromas and flavors. Some earth undertones. Medium body. Medium round tannins. Shows some flint and slate character. Some gunpowder.
Drink now
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com (October 2023)
About this WINE
Telmo Rodriguez
Telmo Rodriguez is one of the great Spanish winemakers. He travelled and learnt for many years before returning home to Rioja. In addition, he supervises négociant projects throughout Spain. One of his most acclaimed projects is in Ribera del Duero.
The charismatic Telmo has something of the prodigal about him, having now returned to his Riojan homestead to energise the great house of Remelluri. One should not overlook, however, his other properties, which explore some of the lesser-known areas of Spain and in each case seek to make superlative and characterful wines. Ribera del Duero is far from a lesser-known area, so it is to Telmo’s great credit, but to no-one’s surprise, that the wines he makes at Matallana are amongst the very best here too.
Valdeorras
Godello is the flagship grape of Valdeorras, and it thrives in the region's conditions. Wines made from Godello are often aromatic, elegant, and expressive. They can display a range of flavours, including citrus fruits, stone fruits, floral notes, and a touch of minerality. Godello wines from Valdeorras are typically crisp, refreshing, and well-balanced.
Apart from Godello, Valdeorras produces red wines, predominantly from the Mencía grape variety. These red wines can exhibit bright red fruit flavours, floral and herbal notes, and a vibrant acidity that adds freshness to the wines.
The winemakers of Valdeorras take pride in their commitment to quality and their focus on sustainable viticulture. Many vineyards in the region are cultivated using organic or biodynamic practices, reflecting a growing trend toward environmentally friendly winemaking.
In addition to Godello and Mencía, Valdeorras can produce wines using grape varieties such as Doña Blanca, Palomino, and Merenzao (also known as Bastardo). However, Godello remains the region's star and has helped Valdeorras gain recognition in Spain and internationally.
Mencía
Mencía is the primary grape of the Bierzo region and its undisputed star, covering nearly two-thirds of the vineyards. This red grape variety is grown almost exclusively in north-western part of Spain (especially in the DOs of Galicia, Valdeorras, Monterrei, and Ribeira Sacra). Mencía ripens early, by mid-September, and is well suited to the maritime climate of Bierzo where autumn rains are quite common.
Mencía has only recently come into spotlight as a quality, potential-laden grape variety. When properly made, it offers fascinating wines across a contrasting spectrum of styles; on the one end are fruity and forward wines with supple tannins and succulent fruit. On the other end are more concentrated, powerful styles with an exotic earthiness, smooth tannins and an enviable reflection of the minerally-rich Bierzo terroir.
Mencía is capable of making excellent wine on its own, with no need to sacrifice its unique character in blends with Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot that are commonplace elsewhere in Spain.
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Description
The second vintage of the red from Valdeorras is the 2020 Lg. Valbuxan (Lugar de Valbuxan, a place from O Bolo). It comes through as austere and serious, a little closed but unmistakably Valdeorras with that combination of wild berries, flowers and herbs. The wine has contained ripeness at 13% alcohol, with restraint and balance. It was produced with a blend of grapes—Mencía, Merenzao, Sousón (a little more this year; it's a grape with very good acidity, the only one fermented separately), Garnacha, Godello and Brancellao—from different vineyards in different zones of the banks of the Bibei River. It's medium-bodied with fine-gained tannins and has a gentle mouthfeel. It's an improvement over the previous vintage. After the wine spent 15 months in 1,500- and 2,000-liter oak foudres, 9,165 bottles were filled in June 2022.
Drink 2023 - 2027
Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate (November 2023)
wine at a glance
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