2020 Chinon, Clos de la Dioterie, Charles Joguet, Loire
Critics reviews
Clos de la Dioterie is a northeast-facing vineyard on the left bank of the Vienne River that's on limestone clay. This is one of the last parcels to be harvested. The 2020 barrel sample offers a delightful texture - exuding a fine, chalky grain. It is almost creamy-rich in style, and yet this being Loire Cabernet Franc, it retains its elegance and shape. This is a ripe, black-fruited style with plentiful oak and long length. A fragrance of tea leaf, smoke and spice lingers long on the sinewy, focused finish, undoubtedly thanks to the limestone sub-soil.
A leading light in Chinon, the now-organic estate was founded in 1957 by Charles Joguet, a Chinon native sculptor and painter with an atelier in Montmartre. Joguet returned to found his domaine at a time when vines were part of a mixed farming approach – putting all your eggs in one basket was not the done thing. But the Burgundy wine lover was an artist, and artistic types tend to get away with taking an alternative approach, which soon became the norm.
The Genet family have owned the estate since 1997 and had partnered with Joguet for a decade before the takeover. With 30 hectares of vines, of which 28ha are Cabernet Franc and 2ha are Chenin, the estate makes a wide range of Chinons, but fine wine lovers will best know it for its cuvées Clos du Chêne Vert and Clos de la Dioterie.
Drink 2022 - 2030
Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous.com (August 2022)
About this WINE
Charles Joguet
Philosopher, poet, sculptor, and vigneron Charles Joguet is a living legend in the Loire. In 1957, Charles became a winemaker at the family Domaine – showcasing his considerable talents, he quickly became the modern pioneer of Chinon by producing some of the finest wines in the appellation, fitting that the wry smile of Chinon's most famous son, François Rabelais, should adorn his bottles.
Based on the left bank of the River Vienne in Sazily, Joguet was the first vigneron in the region to produce single vineyard cuvées. Since 2006, the Domaine has been headed up by Charles's daughter, Anne-Charlott Genet, with winemaker Kevin Fontaine. Organically farmed, the estate extends over 30 hectares planted with Cabernet Franc and 2 hectares Chenin Blanc. The top cuvée is the Clos de la Dioterie, which is the product of 80-year-old Cabernet Franc vines and displays an intensity and concentration of fruit unrivaled in the region.
Chinon
Chinon is an important appellation for the Cabernet Franc grape, located within the Touraine wine region just to the west of Tours. At approximately 2,500 hectares, it represents a slightly larger zone than its neighbour Bourgueil. Part of the appellation, closest to its other voisin St Nicolas de Bourgueil, possesses light, sandy gravel soils to give an easy drinking style, while the remainder is blessed with a tuffeau subsoil from which the wines draw a finer structure and longevity. Neither style approaches the fullness of Bourgueil however.
Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc is widely planted in Bordeaux and is the most important black grape grown in the Loire. In the Médoc it may constitute up to 15% of a typical vineyard - it is always blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and is used to add bouquet and complexity to the wines. It is more widely used in St.Emilion where it adapts well to the cooler and moister clay soils - Cheval Blanc is the most famous Cabernet Franc wine in the world, with the final blend consisting of up to 65% of the grape.
Cabernet Franc thrives in the Loire where the cooler growing conditions serve to accentuate the grape's herbaceous, grassy, lead pencil aromas. The best wines come from the tuffeaux limestone slopes of Chinon and Bourgeil where growers such as Jacky Blot produce intense well-structured wines that possess excellent cellaring potential.
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Description
Clos de la Dioterie is a northeast-facing vineyard on the left bank of the Vienne River that's on limestone clay. This is one of the last parcels to be harvested. The 2020 barrel sample offers a delightful texture - exuding a fine, chalky grain. It is almost creamy-rich in style, and yet this being Loire Cabernet Franc, it retains its elegance and shape. This is a ripe, black-fruited style with plentiful oak and long length. A fragrance of tea leaf, smoke and spice lingers long on the sinewy, focused finish, undoubtedly thanks to the limestone sub-soil.
A leading light in Chinon, the now-organic estate was founded in 1957 by Charles Joguet, a Chinon native sculptor and painter with an atelier in Montmartre. Joguet returned to found his domaine at a time when vines were part of a mixed farming approach – putting all your eggs in one basket was not the done thing. But the Burgundy wine lover was an artist, and artistic types tend to get away with taking an alternative approach, which soon became the norm.
The Genet family have owned the estate since 1997 and had partnered with Joguet for a decade before the takeover. With 30 hectares of vines, of which 28ha are Cabernet Franc and 2ha are Chenin, the estate makes a wide range of Chinons, but fine wine lovers will best know it for its cuvées Clos du Chêne Vert and Clos de la Dioterie.
Drink 2022 - 2030
Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous.com (August 2022)
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