2021 Chinon Rouge, Vieilles Vignes, Philippe Alliet, Loire
Critics reviews
From 70- and 90-year-old vineyards.
A bit whiffy and ghoulish. Needs air. The acidity is fresh but there is a humid dankness that seems to sit on the wine and weigh it down. A stubborn wine. Time? Decanting? Difficult to work out in a big walk-around tasting.
Drink 2024 - 2025
Tamlyn Currin, JancisRobinson.com (November 2023)
About this WINE
Domaine Philippe Alliet
Domaine Philippe Alliet is one to reference for making 100% Cabernet Franc wines. The Domaine is situated in Cravant-les-Côteaux, home to arguably some of the best Cabernet Franc in the world. Founded in 1985, the Domaine is now run by Philippe's son, Pierre, who is revolutionising the Cabernet Franc scene in the Loire, focusing on low yields and meticulous vineyard management.
The oak regime has gone down from 100% new 225l barrels to a mere 20% new wood 500l barrels paired with much longer ageing of up to 20 months. This has drastically changed the style of the range and allows the wines to be approachable young whilst having great potential to age.
The Domaine produces one of the most exciting Chinon ranges in the Loire, spanning from their entry-level Chinon to their top-of-the-range Coteau de Noiré cuvee, located on steep coteaux and perceived as THE best plot in Chinon. Pierre emphasises the importance of sustainable and environmentally friendly viticulture practices, so he organically farms the 19 hectares of the Domaine.
Chinon
Chinon is an important appellation for the Cabernet Franc grape, located within the Touraine wine region just to the west of Tours. At approximately 2,500 hectares, it represents a slightly larger zone than its neighbour Bourgueil. Part of the appellation, closest to its other voisin St Nicolas de Bourgueil, possesses light, sandy gravel soils to give an easy drinking style, while the remainder is blessed with a tuffeau subsoil from which the wines draw a finer structure and longevity. Neither style approaches the fullness of Bourgueil however.
Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc is widely planted in Bordeaux and is the most important black grape grown in the Loire. In the Médoc it may constitute up to 15% of a typical vineyard - it is always blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and is used to add bouquet and complexity to the wines. It is more widely used in St.Emilion where it adapts well to the cooler and moister clay soils - Cheval Blanc is the most famous Cabernet Franc wine in the world, with the final blend consisting of up to 65% of the grape.
Cabernet Franc thrives in the Loire where the cooler growing conditions serve to accentuate the grape's herbaceous, grassy, lead pencil aromas. The best wines come from the tuffeaux limestone slopes of Chinon and Bourgeil where growers such as Jacky Blot produce intense well-structured wines that possess excellent cellaring potential.
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Description
As you might expect, this old vine (60 years+) cuvée is a big step up on the regular Chinon. There's another level of intensity to the dark fruit, but it's not all sweetness. There is a lovely savoury graphite note, some dry undergrowth and even some delicate violets. It's an appetising and complete nose that keeps drawing you back in.
On the palate, the fruit shows a redder hue and is resolutely fresh with mouthwatering acidity and a creamy texture. What we love about this is that it's a light wine but not light-weight. The old vines lend concentration and real length to the finish. It's a remarkably sophisticated Cabernet Franc for an incredible price.
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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