2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Les Apôtres, Domaine Raymond Usseglio & Fils, Rhone
Critics reviews
In certain vintages, Stephan Usseglio makes a special cuvée, made with all whole clusters in terracotta amphorae. The 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Apotres is about 30% Grenache, with the rest a mix of the 12 other permitted grape varieties. This is heady and perfumed, with notes of stone fruit, peppery spice, red raspberries and potpourri. Full-bodied and creamy-textured, it finishes long and a bit warm, but it's compelling stuff.
In 2021, Usseglio said, "We were lucky to not get frosted—only five out of 25 hectares were affected." Of course, he and his pickers had to dodge the same raindrops as everyone else during harvest, but his 2021s have turned out really well. In 2022, he said, "We had a good winter, then it was very dry, with small berries. With the coolish nights, the vines didn't stop—we already had finesse at the end of August. The ferments went fast, malolactic was quick [and] the wines are accessible early, like 2007."
If the wines really turn out like 2007, the 2022 vintage could be one for the ages—and not just at this domaine.
Drink 2024 - 2040
Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (September 2023)
A diverse blend that includes just about every variety, the 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape Les Apôtres has plenty of juicy darker fruits, peppery herbs, sappy flowers, and earthy nuances to go with a pure, medium to full-bodied, fine, elegant style on the palate. As with everything here, it's impeccably made and well worth seeking out.
Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com (October 2023)
About this WINE
Domaine Raymond Usseglio
This third-generation family domaine, of Italian origin, is today run by Raymond’s son, Stéphane Usseglio. The estate counts 24-hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, all of which have been managed biodynamically since 2011. Their vineyards are divided equally between the galet-strewn parcels around Orange, the sandy soils of Courthézon and the alluvial, clay soils of the Crau plateau and the village of Bédarrides. Stéphane continues to innovate, using small, new oak barrels alongside the traditional foudres, as well as experimenting with concrete and terracotta amphorae of varying shapes and sizes. These winemaking techniques enhance the characteristics of each grape variety, carefully highlighting the particularities of each.
Stéphane’s 2021 wines are a great success, albeit 20-25% down in volume against their average yield. The wines show their trademark power and structure; but as we’ve seen with other producers, they also have lower levels of alcohol and higher acidity than the last two vintages. While this freshness makes them more approachable in youth than in some years, their structure will ensure they are nonetheless worthy of cellar ageing. They are wines to return to throughout their ageing process.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
The most celebrated village of the Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the birthplace of the now indispensable French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée system – imperfect though it may be. Compared to the Northern Rhône, the vineyards here are relatively flat and often feature the iconic galet pebbles – the precise benefits of which are a source of much debate. Minimum alcohol levels required by the AOC are the highest in France, but at 12.5% it is well below the natural generosity of Grenache, which only achieves its full aromatic potential when it is fully ripe and laden with the resultant high sugars. Syrah and Mourvèdre contribute the other defining elements in the blend, adding pepper, savoury spice and structure to the decadent Grenache. There are a further 10 permitted red grape varieties which can be used to adjust the “seasoning”. Of the five white varieties permitted, it is Grenache Noir’s sibling – predictably perhaps – Grenache Blanc, which dominates, though Roussanne shows a great deal of promise when handled well, notably at Château de Beaucastel.
Southern Rhône Blend
The vast majority of wines from the Southern Rhône are blends. There are 5 main black varieties, although others are used and the most famous wine of the region, Châteauneuf du Pape, can be made from as many as 13 different varieties. Grenache is the most important grape in the southern Rhône - it contributes alcohol, warmth and gentle juicy fruit and is an ideal base wine in the blend. Plantings of Syrah in the southern Rhône have risen dramatically in the last decade and it is an increasingly important component in blends. It rarely attains the heights that it does in the North but adds colour, backbone, tannins and soft ripe fruit to the blend.
The much-maligned Carignan has been on the retreat recently but is still included in many blends - the best old vines can add colour, body and spicy fruits. Cinsault is also backtracking but, if yields are restricted, can produce moderately well-coloured wines adding pleasant-light fruit to red and rosé blends. Finally, Mourvèdre, a grape from Bandol on the Mediterranean coast, has recently become an increasingly significant component of Southern Rhône blends - it often struggles to ripen fully but can add acidity, ripe spicy berry fruits and hints of tobacco to blends.
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Description
Previously made only in 2017 and 2019, this aims to showcase all 13 permitted varieties. Grenache dominates but is still only 30% here. Aged in two terracotta amphorae, only 4,500 bottles are made. Berries are laboriously de-stemmed by hand. This is concentrated but light, with flavours of raspberries and stone fruits. The tannins are fine and linger across the finish with spice and garrigue.
Drink 2024 - 2038
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