About this WINE
Domaine du Gros'Nore
The wines of Provence have been somewhat neglected at BBR, so it is with great pleasure that in 2012 we have started to work some of the very top Domaines, one being Gros’Noré, whose winemaking style is affording a comprehensive and fascinating perspective of that most modish of black grapes, Mourvèdre.
Domaine Gros’Noré is close to the sea, located in the village of La Cadière D’Azur, its clay-limestone soils etched into a natural amphitheatre which provides a unique microclimate where the Mediterranean air-currents do gentle battle with the latent Mistral and forge the most pleasing maritime conditions.
Add to this the clarity of the light and the Cezanne colours, and, in the character of winemaker Alain Pascal, a gentleman who has walked straight out of a Pagnol novella, and the scene is set perfectly. Vincent Avril at Clos Des Papes (who aspires to have more Mourvèdre in his blend) likes to personify the grape variety thus; ‘it must have its feet near to the sea and its head close to the sun’. In Bandol, it is clearly in its element.
Alain has rebuilt his father’s old winery by hand. His father was, how shall we put this, of a not modest stature and the name of the property is a specific, affectionate reference to his girth. The winemaking is natural, taking advantage of ‘marine humidity’ and plenty of sunshine, and the grapes are not always de-stemmed. There are no added yeasts and fining and filtration are avoided.
If this is a traditional wine style Bandol, then this tradition must be up-held. The word ‘rustic’ is not inevitably pejorative when used by the French to describe their wines. It most certainly is not in this case. This is a marvellous property, with a huge following in France, and one which we are delighted to introduce to the UK market.
Simon Field MW, BBR Wine Buyer
Other Varieties
There are over 200 different grape varieties used in modern wine making (from a total of over 1000). Most lesser known blends and varieties are traditional to specific parts of the world.
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Description
Alain Pascal is especially pleased with his 2013, a late and potentially tricky vintage. Mourvèdre is, paradoxically, both temperamental and versatile, and in a year such as this, when nature’s temper indulged its need for both water and sunshine, it has performed well, making up 50% of the blend. The balance is shared between Cinsault and Grenache, the former favoured in terms of volume. The average age of the vines is 30 years; they enjoy a steep and rather beautiful aspect of the Mediterranean and bask in plenty of the balmy vent du sud.
The luminous onion-skin colour belies a wine of typical depth and gras, with soft red berry fruit and Provencal herbs to the fore. The finish is warm, and welcoming, evocative of its privileged provenance.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
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