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2013 Pommard, Les Croix Noires, 1er Cru, Domaine Louis Boillot
Louis Boillot has come to Chambolle, where his partner Ghislaine Barthod is based, from Gevrey-Chambertin, though as his range of wines indicates, he is descended from the Volnay family of Boillots. Louis uses his vast wine experience and knowledge to secure parcels of the finest quality for his négociant business, Maison Louis Boillot. Combined with this local knowledge and his talented winemaking skills, he strives to produce some of the best wines of Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny.
He was formerly associated with his brother and father at Domaine Lucien Boillot, but set up on his own from the 2003 vintage. The wines made now in Chambolle are significantly more interesting than those produced previously in Gevrey.
The vines are ploughed then run according to lutte raisonnée. The grapes are sorted in the vineyard, 100% destalked, given a cool pre-fermentation maceration, fermented then sent to barrel once the juice is cool again. 20-30% new wood is used across the whole range, with an élévage of 16-18 months before bottling without fining or filtration.
The domaine may suffer from the lack of geographical cohesion of the vineyard holdings, especially in contrast to Ghislaine Barthod’s concentration on Chambolle-Musigny. Their son Clément Boillot-Barthod is going to inherit quite a substantial combination one day.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
The most powerful red wines of the Côte de Beaune emanate from Pommard, where complex soils with a high proportion of iron-rich clay produce deep-coloured, relatively tannic wines. A Pommard that is ready to drink in its first few years is probably not going to be a great example of the appellation.Two vineyards stand out: the lower part of Les Rugiens, which has been mooted for promotion to Grand Cru status, and the five-hectare, walled Clos des Epéneaux, monopoly of Comte Armand.
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