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Graham's 90, Very Old Tawny Port
W & J Graham was originally a Glasgow-based textiles firm, founded by two brothers William and John Graham, which became port shippers in the early 1800s. The family already had extensive business interests in Scotland and India but they decided to channel their considerable resources and energy towards the pursuit of the Port industry.
Later that century, a young Scot called Andrew James Symington emigrated to work for Graham's, but, losing interest in textiles, he became a successful port shipper and his descendants today now own Graham's, which is the jewel in the crown of the Symington Group.
The Symington family’s ancestry in the Port trade spans a period of over 350 years, through 13 generations with 5 members of the family currently actively involved in Graham’s day to day management.
Throughout the 19th century Grahams rapidly grew and went from strength to strength and in 1980 they became one of the first Port companies to invest in Upper Douro vineyards with the acquisition of Quinta dos Malvedos. Since then Quinta dos Malvedos has been recognized as one of the Douro Valleys finest ‘river quintas’.
The Port wines from Quinta dos Malvedos form the backbone of Graham’s renowned Vintage Port in declared years. The vineyard produces Ports with floral characteristics, opulent blackberry fruit aromas backed by well balanced tannins.
Graham's Vintage Ports are the epitome of richness and concentration, and this is reflected right through their range of wines from ruby to vintage classics. They are Port wines with innate quality and potential for long-term ageing.
There are around 40 different grape varieties permitted in the production of Port - however the vast majority of Ports are produced from a blend of 5 grapes - Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesca, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz, and Tinto Cão.
Touriga Nacional produces small, dark-skinned grapes that produce opaque black wines of great extract and high tannins - it gives grip, body, and structure to the blend.
Touriga Franca has a thinner skin and consequently produces wines lighter in colour and tannins than Touriga Nacional. It contributes fruit, aroma, suppleness and roundness.
Tinta Roriz is the Portuguese name for Tempranillo and its high sugar content and low acidity contribute colour and fruit.
Tinta Barroca which is normally grown at highish altitudes and on north-facing slopes, is prized for producing wines of delicacy, finesse and with smooth, velvety fruit. It brings elegance and sweet, ripe fruit to the final blend.
Finally Tinto Cão produces fine and complex wines, though it is probably the least important of the 5 grapes as its painfully small yields have reduced plantings to almost insignificant levels.
Tawny Ports are aged in casks rather than large tanks or bottles like their Ruby counterparts. This gives them a lighter (in both body and colour) and silkier style. There are two major types of Tawny: a blend of several recent vintages with no specific statement of age – known as basic Tawny Port – and older-aged Tawnies, marked as 10, 20, 30 or 40 years old.
Basic Tawny is aged in small casks for two to eight years, during which time the wines take on a tawny colour (hence the name) and a smooth, sweet, dried-fruit character. Tawny Port can also be made by blending red and white Ports together, although the finest examples are not made in this way. Lightly-chilled Tawny makes an excellent apéritif but works equally well with chocolate desserts or cheese. It is ready to drink as soon as it is released, does not throw a sediment, and does not improve with bottle age.
Aged Tawny is the best-known and finest style of Tawny Port, often in par with the other venerable style, Vintage Port. It can be labelled as 10, 20, 30 or more than 40 years old. This age statement refers to the average age of the wines in the blend, although it is not an exact science. Older Tawny Ports are added for extra subtlety and complexity, while younger Tawnies bring freshness. Vintage-dated Tawny is also produced and is known as Colheita. It is relatively rare but often offers exceptional quality and value.
Aged Tawnies are aged for many years in wooden casks where they take on an increasingly tawny colour, a coffee, nutty, dried-fruit complexity and a silky character as the tannins soften. The oldest Tawnies are mellower, complex, delicate and less sweet in style. Once bottled, Aged Tawnies are perfect to drink and do not require decanting as they do not throw a sediment or improve with bottle age.
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