2019 Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie, Burgundy
Critics reviews
A little fuller in colour and a little heavy on the nose, perhaps showing oxidation. Yes, definitely. The result is a dried-out palate. Plenty of fruit concentration before then, and indeed the final taste suggests there could be a way back.
Japer Morris MW, Inside Burgundy (May 2023)
Noble pale primrose, lifted and very fine. There are some attractive lime blossom notes so they evidently did not let this get too ripe. The crystal clear-cut aromatics ensures that the 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet starts well and it delivers further in the mouth with this lime note following all the way through. Very classy.
95-97/100 - Japer Morris MW, Inside Burgundy (November 2020)
The 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is noticeably deeper in color than its peers. The nose shows evidence of some over-maturity—honeysuckle and stewed peaches—and is missing a little delineation. The palate is unctuous on the entry and very concentrated, with layered honeyed fruit and lower acidity than its peers. It is, however, pure and caressing on the finish. This is a Chevalier-Montrachet that aims for broad appeal, but others possess a little more elan. Maybe picked a day too late? Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.
Drink 2027 - 2050
Neal Martin, Vinous (May 2023)
From two small plots totaling 0.15ha and producing three casks in 2019. The parcels are just now finishing their organic conversion and have produced this terrific wine, with notes of citrus peel, salty mineral and smoke on the nose. On the palate, the wine has firm acidity balanced by plenty of extract for a hugely powerful effect.
Drink 2024 - 2039
Charles Curtis MW, Decanter (October 2020)
About this WINE
Domaine de la Vougeraie
Domaine de la Vougeraie is part of our Spotlight on sustainability series. You can view the full range here.
Domaine de la Vougeraie, based in Premeaux just south of Nuits St Georges, was created in 1999 when Jean-Claude Boisset of the Boisset group decided to group together all the vineyard holdings of his various negociant companies acquired over the years. The name comes from the significant holdings – and indeed Jean-Claude Boisset’s home – in the village of Vougeot. The winery is located however in the old Claudine Deschamps (Madame Jean-Claude Boisset) cellars in Prémeaux. The domaine was put together from the various vineyard holdings which had accrued through the Boisset acquisitions of Burgundian houses over the years. Pascal Marchand was put in charge in 1999, with Bernard Zito in the vineyards, which were farmed biodynamically. Pascal produced powerful wines, fairly heavily extracted in his early vintages but clearly was subsequently moving to a softer approach by 2004.
With nearly 40 hectares of vineyard and over 30 different appellations, including six grand crus (Musigny, Bonnes Mares, Clos Vougeot, Charmes Chambertin, Mazoyères, Corton Clos du Roi and Corton Charlemagne), this is one of Burgundy’s leading domaines.
No expense has been spared in production terms. The premier and grand cru vineyards are all farmed biodynamically with carefully limited yields. The cellar has been equipped with a battery of new or renovated wooden fermentation vats, a state of the art sorting table and a new model of the old fashioned vertical press which is thought to be the best option for red wines. The wines were made by Pascal Marchand of Comte Armand in Pommard, from 1999 to 2005 and subsequently by Pierre Vincent who has maintained the more delicate approach. The grapes are sorted on one of the longest tables de tri I have seen, before being given a cool pre-maceration. During fermentation Pierre punches down only once a day, much less than Pascal used to. The temperature is maintained at 26º-28ºC/79-81ºF after fermentation to polymerise the tannins and fix the colour. The Musigny is destemmed by hand. Starting in 2008 he has begun to experiment with some whole bunch fermentation, though only for a proportion of a given cuvée.
Chevalier-Montrachet
Chevalier-Montrachet is one of the most renowned Grand Cru vineyards in Burgundy. Located in the Côte de Beaune subregion, specifically in the villages of Puligny Montrachet and Chassagne Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet is famous for producing exceptional white wines. The terroir is characterized by its limestone-rich soils, which contribute to the minerality and complexity of the wines. The vineyard's exposure to the sun, slope, and altitude also play crucial roles in shaping the unique characteristics of the wines.
Only white wines are produced in Chevalier-Montrachet and are exclusively made from Chardonnay grapes. The wines are known for their richness, elegance, and complexity, often displaying a combination of citrus, orchard fruit, floral, and mineral notes.
Chevalier-Montrachet wines are known for their ability to age gracefully. The best vintages can evolve and improve in the bottle for several decades, developing additional complexity and nuance over time. Production is limited, however, due to the small size of the vineyards.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
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Description
A little fuller in colour and a little heavy on the nose, perhaps showing oxidation. Yes, definitely. The result is a dried-out palate. Plenty of fruit concentration before then, and indeed the final taste suggests there could be a way back.
Japer Morris MW, Inside Burgundy (May 2023)
Noble pale primrose, lifted and very fine. There are some attractive lime blossom notes so they evidently did not let this get too ripe. The crystal clear-cut aromatics ensures that the 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet starts well and it delivers further in the mouth with this lime note following all the way through. Very classy.
95-97/100 - Japer Morris MW, Inside Burgundy (November 2020)
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