Carricante

This white is 100 percent Carricante and fermented with wild yeast. There is a sense of focus from the outset, with aromas of citrus pith and pink grapefruit layered with saline notes. The palate has precision and tension, with mountain herbs mingling with energetic peach and citrus fruit. It’s long and defined on the finish. Drink now to 2019.

As Alberto moves to communicate the exact provenance of his wines and territory, this quivering 100% Carricante white wine in vintage 2012 comes from the Contrada of Arcuria, close to the village of Passopisciaro. Fermented in new cement, followed affinamento (elevage) in 10 hectarelitre Bottaro botte and some tonneaux, this soaring Etna Bianco supports the (my) belief that the Carricante grape is in its element here, where it’s picked in mid October high up on the volcanic slopes (while Catarratto is more at home in the Val di Mezara province to the west). Pale in colour, tight, fresh, pure, with crunchy minerality and a waif-like wild fennel leaf scent, this medium-full bodied dry wine was bottled in Sept ember 2013 and should continue to develop well over the next decade. Very exciting.
David Berry Green