Carricante

The wine formerly known as Quota 600 now carries the name of its territory on the slopes of Europe’s most active volcano. The 100-percent Carricante wine is fabulous with bright, creamy, citrus fruit on the nose, slightly reminiscent of high-quality Chablis. The minerality of the volcanic soils comes through on the palate. Very much of its place, this is beautifully put together with those citrus notes showing themselves again. Great, crisp acidity and balance, this will drink from release, but will age and develop wonderfully, if you have the patience.

Since 2005, Sicilian Alberto Aiello Graci — aided by his sister Elena and mother Maria Adelaide — has been making refined and true Etna Rosso and Etna Bianco wines from 19 hectares of fruit grown on the still-trembling Mount Etna. More precisely, his black Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, and white Catarratto and Carricante grapes are grown on two prime sites: Contrada Barbabecchi in the village of Solicchiata and Contrada Arcuria in Passopisciaro. The wines are traditionally made without temperature control, employing large oak and, where possible, wild yeast to bring out the full expression of the land.

Made in tiny quantities, this 100 percent Carricante – Etna’s crowning white grape – is vinified in cement and wooden botte of 1,000 litres, is stunningly scented with sapid rosemary and verbena notes. Taut, tense, yet with a sumptuous citrus flesh too.
Drink 2024-2032.

This white is 100 percent Carricante and fermented with wild yeast. There is a sense of focus from the outset, with aromas of citrus pith and pink grapefruit layered with saline notes. The palate has precision and tension, with mountain herbs mingling with energetic peach and citrus fruit. It’s long and defined on the finish. Drink now to 2019.

As Alberto moves to communicate the exact provenance of his wines and territory, this quivering 100% Carricante white wine in vintage 2012 comes from the Contrada of Arcuria, close to the village of Passopisciaro. Fermented in new cement, followed affinamento (elevage) in 10 hectarelitre Bottaro botte and some tonneaux, this soaring Etna Bianco supports the (my) belief that the Carricante grape is in its element here, where it’s picked in mid October high up on the volcanic slopes (while Catarratto is more at home in the Val di Mezara province to the west). Pale in colour, tight, fresh, pure, with crunchy minerality and a waif-like wild fennel leaf scent, this medium-full bodied dry wine was bottled in Sept ember 2013 and should continue to develop well over the next decade. Very exciting.
David Berry Green