Grillo

Grillo is the grape of Marsala, behind its fortified wine – and effectively of the entire western side of Sicily. A cross between Zibibbo (Moscato) and Catarrato, it thrives on the sedimentary sandy limestone (strewn with fossils) that characterise the western corner and indeed those of De Bartoli's Contrada Samperi, home to the De Bartoli family, near the town of Marsala itself. Here the De Bartoli fruit lap up the Sicilian sun, basking in its light, constantly ventilated by island breezes to give a medium-to-full dry wine with great, suave intensity of ripe cedro (an enlarged, lemon) and crustaceous notes, while remaining exquisitely elegant and moreish. Great with food, particularly squid ink pasta. Vinified in used 10 hectarelitre French fusti, using only wild yeasts, it's also capable of ageing well in bottle, as shown by the sapid 2001 I was fortunate to taste.
David Berry Green On the nose, Sicilian lemons entwine with honeysuckle and a hint of gunflint. Well balanced and charcterful, this works wonderfully well with food.
Alice Cave, London Shop

Better known for rescuing the traditional expression of Marsala (do try our fabulous one-off Berry Bros. & Rudd’s Vergine Marsala), De Bartoli also make first-class dry wines. Grillo has a ubiquity in the west of the island, but correctly handled, as here, it is both distinctive and impressive. 

A little oak gives a hazelnut nuance to the ripe lemon pith and oil aromas and the dry, subtle saltiness creates an assertive palate, whilst remaining light on its feet.  This is one of those wines that first appear neutral, yet finish full of character. Drink now but will keep for up to at least 2019. 
Mark Pardoe MW, Wine Buyer

This is the purest expression of Marsala, without the spirit fortification or addition of mistella (grape must), hence the absence of the Marsala badge. This is De Bartoli's signature wine: a fabulously vergine pure, 100% Grillo, unadulterated, medium sweet (20 grams of natural residual sugar), rancio wine, the product of a metodo perpetuo (solera) system, in which young wine is added to that already ageing in oak and chestnut barrels, with 5% of the production bottled every year. 'Vecchio Samperi' refers to the average 30-year-old wines in the perpetuo, while Samperi is the name of the contrada where De Bartoli is based, close to Marsala. Deliciously 'retro', pale in colour, perfumed with chestnut, leather, orange skin and bracing sea salt spray; the medium-bodied palate is delicate with refreshing, distinctly salty, lithe and invigorating. Perfect with mature cheeses or oven-baked fish such as turbot. 
David Berry Green

Marco De Bartoli has revived the quality of Marsala that harks back to the 18th century, to when the British made it famous (and were prepared to fight for it!) The vintage on Marsala refers to the year in which the (Grillo) wine was fortified, not vinified. This is benchmark plus Marsala, notably different from the generic Marsala on the market on account of it coming from De Bartoli estate-only fruit, hand-harvested on their Samperio property and vinified in large oak and chestnut barrels.

Part of the grape must being fortified with acquavite, leaving it naturally sweet (50 grams residual sugar), which is then added back into the wine. Focused and rich with walnut, leather, orange skin and even with notes of anchovies 'sotto olio'; very elegant, clipped and dapper - perfect with dolci or elaborate cheese and nut dishes.
David Berry Green