Grillo

Better known for rescuing the traditional expression of Marsala (do try our fabulous one-off Berry Bros. & Rudd’s Vergine Marsala), De Bartoli also make first-class dry wines. Grillo has a ubiquity in the west of the island, but correctly handled, as here, it is both distinctive and impressive. 

A little oak gives a hazelnut nuance to the ripe lemon pith and oil aromas and the dry, subtle saltiness creates an assertive palate, whilst remaining light on its feet.  This is one of those wines that first appear neutral, yet finish full of character. Drink now but will keep for up to at least 2019. 
Mark Pardoe MW, Wine Buyer

Grillo is the grape of Marsala, behind its fortified wine – and effectively of the entire western side of Sicily. A cross between Zibibbo (Moscato) and Catarrato, it thrives on the sedimentary sandy limestone (strewn with fossils) that characterise the western corner and indeed those of De Bartoli's Contrada Samperi, home to the De Bartoli family, near the town of Marsala itself. Here the De Bartoli fruit lap up the Sicilian sun, basking in its light, constantly ventilated by island breezes to give a medium-to-full dry wine with great, suave intensity of ripe cedro (an enlarged, lemon) and crustaceous notes, while remaining exquisitely elegant and moreish. Great with food, particularly squid ink pasta. Vinified in used 10 hectarelitre French fusti, using only wild yeasts, it's also capable of ageing well in bottle, as shown by the sapid 2001 I was fortunate to taste.
David Berry Green On the nose, Sicilian lemons entwine with honeysuckle and a hint of gunflint. Well balanced and charcterful, this works wonderfully well with food.
Alice Cave, London Shop