Samuel Billaud

In 2017 this is a blend of mostly Pargues and Cartes, plus a reduced percentage of Bas de Chapelot due to frost. The nose has lifted aromas of citrus fruit while the palate displays lemon-and-lime freshness, with a chalky and saline mineral feel. The lower proportion of Chapelot this year has yielded a more elegant wine. Drink 2019-2025.
Adam Bruntlett - Wine Buyer

The brilliantly talented Samuel Billaud was finding family politics hard going, so he founded his own wine label in Chablis separate from Domaine Billaud-Simon. However, with the sale of Domaine Billaud- Simon to Faiveley in 2014, Samuel has got back a proportion of the vineyards for himself. Whether from domaine sources or purchased grapes, Samuel Billaud’s wines demonstrate his exceptional talent.

After a hiatus in 2015, we are pleased to welcome this back to the range. Raised entirely in stainless steel to preserve the freshness of this south-facing vineyard, this is the most open of the Premiers Crus. The warmth of the exposition shines through with pleasant yellow fruit notes, while the steep, stony slope contributes a chalkiness to the finish. Very transparent. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The brilliantly talented Samuel Billaud was finding family politics hard going, so he founded his own wine label in Chablis separate from Domaine Billaud-Simon. However with the sale of Domaine Billaud- Simon to Faiveley in 2014, Samuel has got back a proportion of the vineyards for himself. Whether from domaine sources or purchased grapes, Samuel Billaud’s wines demonstrate his exceptional talent. Samuel feels that 2016 is very close in style to the outstanding 2014 vintage, and says that the concentrating effect of hail and frost early in the season, along with the cool ripening period has given a good balance of matière and acidity. This is a very promising set of wines which will gain in weight and complexity with élevage . Samuel is undoubtedly making some of the finest wines in Chablis.

From two parcels between 30 and 45 years old, 20 percent was raised in 450-litre oak barrels. It has a lovely, crystalline, lemon nose with a breezy seashell lift. The palate has greater sucrosity and riper peach fruit, along with an alluring creamy, leesy finish. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer


The brilliantly talented Samuel Billaud was finding family politics hard going, so he founded his own wine label in Chablis separate from Domaine Billaud-Simon. However with the sale of Domaine Billaud- Simon to Faiveley in 2014, Samuel has got back a proportion of the vineyards for himself. Whether from domaine sources or purchased grapes, Samuel Billaud’s wines demonstrate his exceptional talent. Samuel feels that 2016 is very close in style to the outstanding 2014 vintage, and says that the concentrating effect of hail and frost early in the season, along with the cool ripening period has given a good balance of matière and acidity. This is a very promising set of wines which will gain in weight and complexity with élevage . Samuel is undoubtedly making some of the finest wines in Chablis.

The 2015 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros has a splendid bouquet with a very subtle reductive note. There is real delineation and poise here, with walnut and smoke emerging with time and struck flint emerging later. The palate is well defined with a fine bead of acidity (although the acidity level is lower than in Blanchot). Touches of blackcurrant leaf and quince dovetail into a very energetic finish that lingers for over a minute. Superb.
Neal Martin - 31/08/2017

From 40-year-old vines in the Côte des Bougerots and vinified in two 450-litre barrels for ferment and the first year of élevage, then spends six months in tank before being bottled unfiltered. There is no new oak here; one barrel being one year old, the other three years old. The nose is fascinating, quite toasty with rich fruit and aromas of hazelnuts and smoke. The palate offers excellent concentration and splendid peach fruit. This feels surprisingly accessible, with a saline and iodine finish. Outstanding.

Fresh, pale yellow colour, there is a huge weight of shining white fruit with magical intensity, classical Chablis in a relatively rich register. Very lovely and impressively long, this has the makings of a classic with just a little touch of iodine in the finish.
Jasper Morris MW - Burgundy Wine Director

Samuel Billaud notes the very short window in 2013: the grapes were late to ripen but then it poured on Saturday 5th October which accelerated the rot. He began at the end of September and finished on 8th October. Overall yields were low but acceptable, with very concentrated wines which are as concentrated as, but a touch less saline than,2012. He feels the best successes in 2013 are on the right bank.

From 100 percent domaine fruit made up of two plots on either side of the valley, this is vinified and matured in older barrels. Fine, pure and pale in colour, this has the faintest touch of coconut yet is pure, fine and complex. A few lemongrass notes, and a strong sense of marine minerals – this is long and lovely.

Though the viticulture predates the return of his vineyards, Samuel got into his own vines just before the harvest and has thus been able to vinify a larger range than before. So when we visited he was much happier all round, especially with an excellent 2014 harvest in his cellar: healthy grapes and correct yields between 40hl/ha for Grand Cru and 55hl/ha for Chablis.

Fermented and raised for the first year in barrel, this is then transferred to tank for the second winter. The nose is rich and spicy, a touch marked by oak at present. The palate is less encumbered, with masses of concentration and energy leading to a crystalline finish. Terroir will emerge. Drink 2022-2032.

Samuel explains that except for the frost in late April, 2017 was not a very complicated vintage, with no excess rain or heat, and no disease pressure in the vineyards. Worst hit by the cold snap were the vineyards on the rive droite (right bank); the Grands Crus, Mont de Milieu, Montée de Tonnerre and some village Chablis. Stylistically Samuel is a big fan of the 2017s, praising them as dynamic, fresh and tight, but with a sunny, accessible edge. Samuel’s wines undoubtedly deserve to be considered some of Chablis’s best.

Samuel described the yield as “catastrophic” at just 15hl/ha. The wine itself is outstanding, with extraordinary concentration and richness, all the while remaining refined and elegant with a mineral core. The finish is grainy, with lingering notes of crushed oyster shell and iodine. Very fine indeed. Drink 2023-2035.

Samuel explains that except for the frost in late April, 2017 was not a very complicated vintage, with no excess rain or heat, and no disease pressure in the vineyards. Worst hit by the cold snap were the vineyards on the rive droite (right bank); the Grands Crus, Mont de Milieu, Montée de Tonnerre and some village Chablis. Stylistically Samuel is a big fan of the 2017s, praising them as dynamic, fresh and tight, but with a sunny, accessible edge. Samuel’s wines undoubtedly deserve to be considered some of Chablis’s best.

From the first whiffs of salty, smoky reduction, it’s clear that this is a serious wine. The saline theme continues on the palate, where it is joined by confit lemon and serious concentration. Yielding just 20hl/ha, the only disappointment is that there is relatively little of this wine. Drink 2021-2029

The majority of this cuvée is from old vines belonging to Samuel. This has a beautiful round style with an incisive Chablisien middle – white peaches, perhaps some yellow plum too; it is very harmonious and satisfying.

Though the viticulture predates the return of his vineyards, Samuel got into his own vines just before the harvest and has thus been able to vinify a larger range than before. So when we visited he was much happier all round, especially with an excellent 2014 harvest in his cellar: healthy grapes and correct yields between 40hl/ha for Grand Cru and 55hl/ha for Chablis.

This wine undergoes 20% barrel fermentation and ageing, adding a little texture and breadth without oaking the wine. This is generous, with a ripe and powerful nose which offers white fruit and spice. The palate opens with citrus and minerals, offering real power and a fine thread of acidity, with a touch of white pepper adding complexity. Drink 2021-2027.

This is a blend of two parcels; one facing east, one facing west. The former brings freshness, the latter maturity. It’s raised in two-year-old oak for a year, before moving to tank for the second winter. The nose offers oak spice and floral notes, while the palate is rich and exotic with a cashmere texture, generous peach and apricot fruit, and a powerful but elegant warmth. Drink 2022-2028.

From two parcels – one at the top of Chapelot and one in the triangle of Montée de Tonnerre, this is an intense and powerful wine which needs time to achieve its potential. The nose is complex, with smoke, spice and subtle fruit. The palate is tightly wound, with huge concentration and power bubbling under the surface. Despite this, it remains fine and reserved, with a cool character that defies the warm vintage. Drink 2022-2028.

Samuel’s Séchet is made from 70-year-old vines, an important factor in moderating the yield to a modest 45hl/ha. Raised exclusively in stainless steel, this is the quintessence of Chablis purity. It’s an intensely mineral and restrained wine with sizzling, precise focus and an iodine finish. Severe and strict within the context of the vintage, this is excellent. Drink 2021-2027.

The 2018 vintage sees a return to the classic blend of Bas de Chapelot, Pargues and Cartes, the latter being over 80 years old, and all three being very well-sited next to Premier Cru vineyards. The nose is classically Chablis, with citrus and oyster-shell notes, and a complexity that is a cut above most village Chablis. The palate is juicy with good generosity underpinned by a steely, mineral core and surprising structure. Drink now to 2026.

Fermented and raised for the first year in barrel, this is then transferred to tank for the second winter. The 60-year-old vines resisted the warm conditions of the vintage, providing plenty of mineral tension and elegance to what is a rich, dense and thickly textured wine. Drink 2022-2030.

From 50- to 60-year-old vines, this displays the lovely suave texture of Les Preuses, as yet very tightly knit, showing the concentration of the vintage but also the fresh, mineral underlying acidity. Drink 2020-2025.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Samuel has not only been able to take back his share of the family vineyards but he has also moved into some excellent premises which he has been refurbishing, in the heart of Chablis. It was good to find him in such a cheerful frame of mind. The long, slow vinification of his 2015s has done the wines a lot of good. We found a concentration of minerality and characteristic saline finishes.