Though the preceding two generations had not been involved in wine, they retained ownership of vineyards inherited from Edouard Jayer, uncle of Henri. In 2003 Edouard’s great-granddaughter, Cécile Tremblay decided to take back three hectares of vines on the expiry of the lease. More are due to follow in 2021 and Cécile has already purchased or rented further land. Since August 2008 she has rented premises in Gevrey-Chambertin, the former Caveau du Chapitre. The vineyards were not in great condition when Cécile took them over – too much fertiliser, herbicides preferred to ploughing, and so on, but they are steadily being licked into shape. The vines are now certified organic and Cécile pursues a number of biodynamic methods. Her list of wines will doubtless evolve further: in 2006 and 2007 premier cru Les Rouges went into the village Vosne Romanée, while most of the Nuits-St-Georges is premier cru Murgers, but the vines are young. From 2021 there will be much more Beaumonts and some Clos de Vougeot as well. Some stems are kept during vinification, which takes place in wooden vats for up to a month, with some punching down but very little pumping over. The solids are pressed at the end with a small vertical press whose virtues Cécile sings highly. The wines are then raised in barrel, with between one third and two thirds new, for 15 to 18 months without racking. The favoured cooper is Chassin, who works closely with Cécile, selecting specific types and toasts of wood to suit individual wines. Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.