Heritiers du Comte Lafon

From a cool, four-hectare parcel facing due east at 350 metres above sea level, this sits at the taut, mineral end of the spectrum of styles produced by the domaine. At present, it’s fairly discreet on the nose, with an appealing hint of reduction alongside aromas of lime and grapefruit. The palate is crisp and saline, and suggests this wine will reward cellaring for five years or more. Aged for eight months in an array of large (600L+) oak casks. 

The Maranches vineyard has a significant proportion of Chardonnay Muscaté, a variety which adds a floral note. This wine displays a seductive perfume of honeysuckle and apricot. It’s peachy and generous on the palate, yet with cleansing acidity on the finish. Drink 2018-2021.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

In September 1999 the Lafon family bought a domaine at Milly-Lamartine, renaming it Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon. In May 2003 a further six hectares in the villages of Uchizy and Chardonnay were added, followed by Viré-Clessé in 2009 and Prissé, PouillyFuissé and St Véran in 2014. The whole operation, based at Milly, is now looked after by Caroline Gon under the supervision of Dominique Lafon and totals 26 hectares. The vineyards are now biodynamic, and the wines are vinified partly in stainless steel, partly in large wooden foudres and partly in demimuids, depending on the cuvée. It hailed a little in St Véran. Harvest began on 15th September, finishing with the Mâcon-Bussières on 1st October, allowing Dominique and his cellar master, Caroline Gon, to pick each of their parcels at the perfect level of ripeness. Caroline explained that the acidity levels of the 2016s are not dissimilar to those of 2015, but that the lower alcohol means the wines feel fresher and more energetic.

This 2.6-hectare walled vineyard is situated in the village of Chardonnay, in northern Mâcon. It was the first vineyard to be picked to preserve elegance and freshness. It’s a wine which always displays ripe, sunny fruit thanks to its south-facing exposition, but which has excellent tension and freshness thanks to the limestone bedrock. This year it is suave and elegant with lemongrass notes. Drink 2018-2021.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

In September 1999 the Lafon family bought a domaine at Milly-Lamartine, renaming it Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon. In May 2003 a further six hectares in the villages of Uchizy and Chardonnay were added, followed by Viré-Clessé in 2009 and Prissé, PouillyFuissé and St Véran in 2014. The whole operation, based at Milly, is now looked after by Caroline Gon under the supervision of Dominique Lafon and totals 26 hectares. The vineyards are now biodynamic, and the wines are vinified partly in stainless steel, partly in large wooden foudres and partly in demimuids, depending on the cuvée. It hailed a little in St Véran. Harvest began on 15th September, finishing with the Mâcon-Bussières on 1st October, allowing Dominique and his cellar master, Caroline Gon, to pick each of their parcels at the perfect level of ripeness. Caroline explained that the acidity levels of the 2016s are not dissimilar to those of 2015, but that the lower alcohol means the wines feel fresher and more energetic.

Raised in a mixture of foudres and demi-muids, this is quite a new cuvée for Lafon (the first vintage was 2014). This wine is a blend of two south-facing parcels and one north-facing plot. There is real ripeness to this wine, with notes of orange blossom on the nose, along with a touch of smoky bacon. The palate is rounded and exuberant, with orange peel flavours; the firm, mineral core keeps the ripeness in check. Drink 2019-2023.
Adam Bruntlett, Brugundy Buyer

In September 1999 the Lafon family bought a domaine at Milly-Lamartine, renaming it Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon. In May 2003 a further six hectares in the villages of Uchizy and Chardonnay were added, followed by Viré-Clessé in 2009 and Prissé, PouillyFuissé and St Véran in 2014. The whole operation, based at Milly, is now looked after by Caroline Gon under the supervision of Dominique Lafon and totals 26 hectares. The vineyards are now biodynamic, and the wines are vinified partly in stainless steel, partly in large wooden foudres and partly in demimuids, depending on the cuvée. It hailed a little in St Véran. Harvest began on 15th September, finishing with the Mâcon-Bussières on 1st October, allowing Dominique and his cellar master, Caroline Gon, to pick each of their parcels at the perfect level of ripeness. Caroline explained that the acidity levels of the 2016s are not dissimilar to those of 2015, but that the lower alcohol means the wines feel fresher and more energetic.

The flagship vineyard has a really delightful bouquet in 2011, with wild flowers and delicious vanilla notes. White peaches dominate the palate, with a perfect balancing acidity and excellent length showing through on the finish. The wine demonstrates perfectly what Dominique Lafon is trying to achieve with his white Burgundy.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director Dominique Lafon’s Mâcon project has been performing to a very high standard during the last several vintages. The wines show all the qualities you would expect from a master winemaker, yet there is no sense at all that he is trying to Côte d’Or wines here. Each cuvée stands out with its own personal characteristics, be it the grace of Clos de la Crochette, the weight of Viré-Clessé or the mineral tension of Clos du Four.

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