Heritiers du Comte Lafon

The 2015 Mâcon-Prissé debuted in 2014 and Dominique Lafon told me that it was originally intended to be blended into the Mâcon Villages. It has a sharp, easygoing orange zest-scented bouquet that feels a little constricted at the moment. The palate is balanced with crisp acidity, moderate depth and a tang of orange rind on the short finish. I suspect that there will be better to come.
Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate (summer 2017)

From a cool, four-hectare parcel facing due east at 350 metres above sea level, this sits at the taut, mineral end of the spectrum of styles produced by the domaine. At present, it’s fairly discreet on the nose, with an appealing hint of reduction alongside aromas of lime and grapefruit. The palate is crisp and saline, and suggests this wine will reward cellaring for five years or more. Aged for eight months in an array of large (600L+) oak casks. 

Two-thirds raised in foudre with the remainder in large barrels, this is a standout cuvée in warmer vintages such as 2017. There is gorgeous stone-fruit on the nose and palate, along with sizzling energy and tension. The finish has a pleasant citrus bitterness and a touch of toast. Drink 2019-2022.

The hot and dry conditions of summer 2017 have yielded mixed blessings; the wines are deliciously ripe but the volumes have suffered a little due to drought stress. Picking began early (at the end of August), with the resulting wines being described by Caroline as of really high quality, with good balance and maturity. Dominique and Caroline take great care to pick each parcel (and indeed sub-parcel) at precisely the right time to ensure optimum ripeness.

This 2.6-hectare walled vineyard is situated in the village of Chardonnay, in northern Mâcon. It was the first vineyard to be picked to preserve elegance and freshness. It’s a wine which always displays ripe, sunny fruit thanks to its south-facing exposition, but which has excellent tension and freshness thanks to the limestone bedrock. This year it is suave and elegant with lemongrass notes. Drink 2018-2021.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

In September 1999 the Lafon family bought a domaine at Milly-Lamartine, renaming it Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon. In May 2003 a further six hectares in the villages of Uchizy and Chardonnay were added, followed by Viré-Clessé in 2009 and Prissé, PouillyFuissé and St Véran in 2014. The whole operation, based at Milly, is now looked after by Caroline Gon under the supervision of Dominique Lafon and totals 26 hectares. The vineyards are now biodynamic, and the wines are vinified partly in stainless steel, partly in large wooden foudres and partly in demimuids, depending on the cuvée. It hailed a little in St Véran. Harvest began on 15th September, finishing with the Mâcon-Bussières on 1st October, allowing Dominique and his cellar master, Caroline Gon, to pick each of their parcels at the perfect level of ripeness. Caroline explained that the acidity levels of the 2016s are not dissimilar to those of 2015, but that the lower alcohol means the wines feel fresher and more energetic.

The Maranches vineyard has a significant proportion of old Chardonnay Muscaté vines, a variety which provides a floral note to the fruit. This gives a perfume to the nose and a spicy, peachy feel to the palate, while the old vines resisted the drought stress and provide a balancing tension. Drink 2019-2022.

The hot and dry conditions of summer 2017 have yielded mixed blessings; the wines are deliciously ripe but the volumes have suffered a little due to drought stress. Picking began early (at the end of August), with the resulting wines being described by Caroline as of really high quality, with good balance and maturity. Dominique and Caroline take great care to pick each parcel (and indeed sub-parcel) at precisely the right time to ensure optimum ripeness.

The warmest part of this early-ripening vineyard was the second to be picked, to preserve freshness. The nose has a charming oyster-shell reduction reminiscent of Chablis, a mineral thread which runs through the wine. There is good fruit weight and a precise finish, very elegant. Drink 2019-2022.

The Maranches vineyard has a significant proportion of Chardonnay Muscaté, a variety which adds a floral note. This wine displays a seductive perfume of honeysuckle and apricot. It’s peachy and generous on the palate, yet with cleansing acidity on the finish. Drink 2018-2021.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

In September 1999 the Lafon family bought a domaine at Milly-Lamartine, renaming it Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon. In May 2003 a further six hectares in the villages of Uchizy and Chardonnay were added, followed by Viré-Clessé in 2009 and Prissé, PouillyFuissé and St Véran in 2014. The whole operation, based at Milly, is now looked after by Caroline Gon under the supervision of Dominique Lafon and totals 26 hectares. The vineyards are now biodynamic, and the wines are vinified partly in stainless steel, partly in large wooden foudres and partly in demimuids, depending on the cuvée. It hailed a little in St Véran. Harvest began on 15th September, finishing with the Mâcon-Bussières on 1st October, allowing Dominique and his cellar master, Caroline Gon, to pick each of their parcels at the perfect level of ripeness. Caroline explained that the acidity levels of the 2016s are not dissimilar to those of 2015, but that the lower alcohol means the wines feel fresher and more energetic.

Two-thirds of this is raised in demi-muids, one-third in a small foudre. This really shines in 2017, seemingly unaffected by the vintage and – as always – giving a tangy, nervy and mineral expression of the Mâconnais. With remarkable freshness and precision, it’s very long too. Drink 2020-2025.

The hot and dry conditions of summer 2017 have yielded mixed blessings; the wines are deliciously ripe but the volumes have suffered a little due to drought stress. Picking began early (at the end of August), with the resulting wines being described by Caroline as of really high quality, with good balance and maturity. Dominique and Caroline take great care to pick each parcel (and indeed sub-parcel) at precisely the right time to ensure optimum ripeness.

Raised in a mixture of foudres and demi-muids, this is quite a new cuvée for Lafon (the first vintage was 2014). This wine is a blend of two south-facing parcels and one north-facing plot. There is real ripeness to this wine, with notes of orange blossom on the nose, along with a touch of smoky bacon. The palate is rounded and exuberant, with orange peel flavours; the firm, mineral core keeps the ripeness in check. Drink 2019-2023.
Adam Bruntlett, Brugundy Buyer

In September 1999 the Lafon family bought a domaine at Milly-Lamartine, renaming it Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon. In May 2003 a further six hectares in the villages of Uchizy and Chardonnay were added, followed by Viré-Clessé in 2009 and Prissé, PouillyFuissé and St Véran in 2014. The whole operation, based at Milly, is now looked after by Caroline Gon under the supervision of Dominique Lafon and totals 26 hectares. The vineyards are now biodynamic, and the wines are vinified partly in stainless steel, partly in large wooden foudres and partly in demimuids, depending on the cuvée. It hailed a little in St Véran. Harvest began on 15th September, finishing with the Mâcon-Bussières on 1st October, allowing Dominique and his cellar master, Caroline Gon, to pick each of their parcels at the perfect level of ripeness. Caroline explained that the acidity levels of the 2016s are not dissimilar to those of 2015, but that the lower alcohol means the wines feel fresher and more energetic.

In 2017 this vineyard was harvested on seven different dates to ensure optimum ripeness. The nose has a touch of the exotic, but with more restraint than in the past. The palate has a salty freshness running through, with saline, iodine notes accompanying the powerful structure and a chewy finish with plenty of dry extract. Dominique thinks it’s the best Viré he has made. Drink 2020-2026.

The hot and dry conditions of summer 2017 have yielded mixed blessings; the wines are deliciously ripe but the volumes have suffered a little due to drought stress. Picking began early (at the end of August), with the resulting wines being described by Caroline as of really high quality, with good balance and maturity. Dominique and Caroline take great care to pick each parcel (and indeed sub-parcel) at precisely the right time to ensure optimum ripeness.

This wine includes a new parcel which came as part of a deal with the Bret Brothers to jointly manage another estate. These old vines at higher altitude give the wine more freshness and complexity. The nose is opulent and expressive with white flowers. The palate has some rich orange fruit, but there is plenty of tension which keeps things balanced. Drink 2020-2025.

The hot and dry conditions of summer 2017 have yielded mixed blessings; the wines are deliciously ripe but the volumes have suffered a little due to drought stress. Picking began early (at the end of August), with the resulting wines being described by Caroline as of really high quality, with good balance and maturity. Dominique and Caroline take great care to pick each parcel (and indeed sub-parcel) at precisely the right time to ensure optimum ripeness.

Coming from 60-year-old-plus vines, this was harvested not overly late in order to avoid the ultraripe, honeyed style of Viré-Clessé. Indeed, the nose is bright and balanced. On the palate there is yellow fruit – a huge volume of it – yet with a crisp, crunchy finish.

The 2014 wines were all bottled just before the 2015 harvest using Diam10 corks, and the crus – such as Viré-Clessé – have a slightly different label (effectively the same as those for the other Mâconnais wines but with the colours inverted). Dominique thinks that 2014 is not only an excellent vintage, but also remarkably consistent for every part of the Mâconnais. The entire range is a joy this year.

Caroline Gon (winemaker at the domaine) is delighted with her second vintage of St Véran. As she points out, the Montchanin vineyard faces due south and its wines can be prone to corpulence, so timely harvesting is essential: the pickers descended on August 28th in 2015. At present, this shows more than a little reduction, but there are lashings of ripe white fruit beneath. On the palate, a streak of acidity provides the tension to match its gorgeous, rich texture. Enjoy now and over the next five years.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer