Heritiers du Comte Lafon
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Heritiers du Comte Lafon,
Ready, but will keep,
The 2018 crop was generous in the Mâconnais, but there was no negative effect on the quality of the wines – quite the opposite, in fact, in the case of the Mâcon-Villages from Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, which contains de-classified fruit from some of the region’s most celebrated vineyards. As ever, this wine’s calling card is zippy acidity and a citrus-fruit attack segueing into richer stone-fruit notes on the mid-palate. A proportion of the ’18 was aged for six months in large oak foudres, contributing extra complexity and texture. A luxurious apéritif, it also pairs brilliantly will all manner of dishes from tandoori chicken to salmon and asparagus quiche. Drink now to 2022.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
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In September 1999 the Lafon family of Meursault bought a domaine in the wine region of Maconnais at Milly Lamartine, renaming it Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon.
In May 2003 a further domaine of 6 hectares in the villages of Uchizy and Chardonnay was bought. Together the Mâcon domaine amounted to 14 hectares producing seven wines in all, four of them from single-vineyard sites. The most recent addition, from 2009, is a contract to farm the vineyards of the Château de Viré, with the appellation Viré-Clessé.
The whole operation, based at Milly, is now looked after by Caroline Gon under the supervision of Dominique Lafon. The vineyards were immediately converted to organic and now to biodynamic farming. The wines are vinified partly in stainless steel, partly in large wooden foudres (ovals) and partly in demi-muids - barrels of 600 litres, depending on the cuvée.
Jasper Morris MW is author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.