Heritiers du Comte Lafon

Dominique Lafon, of the famous Domaine des Comtes Lafon in Meursault, set up his Mâconnais domaine with the intention of producing wines at a more affordable level without sacrificing quality, and this particular MâconVillages is the domaine’s calling card. Blended from vineyards in Viré-Clessé, Bussières and Uchizy, and raised in a mix of tank and large wooden foudre, this is a wine of freshness and energy. Dominique’s stated aim for this cuvée is for it to be so drinkable that a second glass is simply irresistible – and it undoubtedly is.

From a relatively cool, east-facing vineyard at 300 metres’ altitude, this is delightfully pure and mineral; its aromas leaning more towards ripe citrus (grapefruit) than stone fruit. The long, saline finish confirms its pedigree.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer

Rain fell here in late August just when it was most needed. A fine pale lemon colour, it has an attractively fresh nose with complexity behind and white fruit. There is some generous weight in the middle and then a lemon-scented freshness returns. Drink 2017-2020.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Dominique Lafon and his cellar master, Caroline Gon, took a great deal of trouble in 2015 to get their picking dates exactly right. They started on 28th August and picked their Mâconnais wines across a 13-day period, as each sector ripened, with the result that they have avoided high sugar levels and have kept the desired element of freshness in their wines.

Crystal-clear pale colour, the Clos de Four starts discreetly, then there is a wealth of fruit and flavour, with a classy backbone and not too much flesh. There is an exceptionally long finish to this athletic wine. Drink 2018-2021.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Dominique Lafon and his cellar master, Caroline Gon, took a great deal of trouble in 2015 to get their picking dates exactly right. They started on 28th August and picked their Mâconnais wines across a 13-day period, as each sector ripened, with the result that they have avoided high sugar levels and have kept the desired element of freshness in their wines.

From a cool, four-hectare parcel facing due east at 350 metres above sea level, this sits at the taut, mineral end of the spectrum of styles produced by the domaine. At present, it’s fairly discreet on the nose, with an appealing hint of reduction alongside aromas of lime and grapefruit. The palate is crisp and saline, and suggests this wine will reward cellaring for five years or more. Aged for eight months in an array of large (600L+) oak casks. 

Caroline Gon (winemaker at the domaine) is delighted with her second vintage of St Véran. As she points out, the Montchanin vineyard faces due south and its wines can be prone to corpulence, so timely harvesting is essential: the pickers descended on August 28th in 2015. At present, this shows more than a little reduction, but there are lashings of ripe white fruit beneath. On the palate, a streak of acidity provides the tension to match its gorgeous, rich texture. Enjoy now and over the next five years.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer

The Maranches vineyard has a significant proportion of Chardonnay Muscaté, a variety which adds a floral note. This wine displays a seductive perfume of honeysuckle and apricot. It’s peachy and generous on the palate, yet with cleansing acidity on the finish. Drink 2018-2021.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

In September 1999 the Lafon family bought a domaine at Milly-Lamartine, renaming it Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon. In May 2003 a further six hectares in the villages of Uchizy and Chardonnay were added, followed by Viré-Clessé in 2009 and Prissé, PouillyFuissé and St Véran in 2014. The whole operation, based at Milly, is now looked after by Caroline Gon under the supervision of Dominique Lafon and totals 26 hectares. The vineyards are now biodynamic, and the wines are vinified partly in stainless steel, partly in large wooden foudres and partly in demimuids, depending on the cuvée. It hailed a little in St Véran. Harvest began on 15th September, finishing with the Mâcon-Bussières on 1st October, allowing Dominique and his cellar master, Caroline Gon, to pick each of their parcels at the perfect level of ripeness. Caroline explained that the acidity levels of the 2016s are not dissimilar to those of 2015, but that the lower alcohol means the wines feel fresher and more energetic.

This 2.6-hectare walled vineyard is situated in the village of Chardonnay, in northern Mâcon. It was the first vineyard to be picked to preserve elegance and freshness. It’s a wine which always displays ripe, sunny fruit thanks to its south-facing exposition, but which has excellent tension and freshness thanks to the limestone bedrock. This year it is suave and elegant with lemongrass notes. Drink 2018-2021.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

In September 1999 the Lafon family bought a domaine at Milly-Lamartine, renaming it Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon. In May 2003 a further six hectares in the villages of Uchizy and Chardonnay were added, followed by Viré-Clessé in 2009 and Prissé, PouillyFuissé and St Véran in 2014. The whole operation, based at Milly, is now looked after by Caroline Gon under the supervision of Dominique Lafon and totals 26 hectares. The vineyards are now biodynamic, and the wines are vinified partly in stainless steel, partly in large wooden foudres and partly in demimuids, depending on the cuvée. It hailed a little in St Véran. Harvest began on 15th September, finishing with the Mâcon-Bussières on 1st October, allowing Dominique and his cellar master, Caroline Gon, to pick each of their parcels at the perfect level of ripeness. Caroline explained that the acidity levels of the 2016s are not dissimilar to those of 2015, but that the lower alcohol means the wines feel fresher and more energetic.

A fantastic parcel of old vines on the mid-slope in Milly- Lamartine, this is one of the plots that persuaded Dominique to begin his Mâconnais project. The nose displays a touch of noble reduction. The aromas and flavours are altogether more grown-up, with smoke, a chewy texture and promising youthful bitterness on the finish. Great potential. Drink 2019-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

In September 1999 the Lafon family bought a domaine at Milly-Lamartine, renaming it Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon. In May 2003 a further six hectares in the villages of Uchizy and Chardonnay were added, followed by Viré-Clessé in 2009 and Prissé, PouillyFuissé and St Véran in 2014. The whole operation, based at Milly, is now looked after by Caroline Gon under the supervision of Dominique Lafon and totals 26 hectares. The vineyards are now biodynamic, and the wines are vinified partly in stainless steel, partly in large wooden foudres and partly in demimuids, depending on the cuvée. It hailed a little in St Véran. Harvest began on 15th September, finishing with the Mâcon-Bussières on 1st October, allowing Dominique and his cellar master, Caroline Gon, to pick each of their parcels at the perfect level of ripeness. Caroline explained that the acidity levels of the 2016s are not dissimilar to those of 2015, but that the lower alcohol means the wines feel fresher and more energetic.

Raised in a mixture of foudres and demi-muids, this is quite a new cuvée for Lafon (the first vintage was 2014). This wine is a blend of two south-facing parcels and one north-facing plot. There is real ripeness to this wine, with notes of orange blossom on the nose, along with a touch of smoky bacon. The palate is rounded and exuberant, with orange peel flavours; the firm, mineral core keeps the ripeness in check. Drink 2019-2023.
Adam Bruntlett, Brugundy Buyer

In September 1999 the Lafon family bought a domaine at Milly-Lamartine, renaming it Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon. In May 2003 a further six hectares in the villages of Uchizy and Chardonnay were added, followed by Viré-Clessé in 2009 and Prissé, PouillyFuissé and St Véran in 2014. The whole operation, based at Milly, is now looked after by Caroline Gon under the supervision of Dominique Lafon and totals 26 hectares. The vineyards are now biodynamic, and the wines are vinified partly in stainless steel, partly in large wooden foudres and partly in demimuids, depending on the cuvée. It hailed a little in St Véran. Harvest began on 15th September, finishing with the Mâcon-Bussières on 1st October, allowing Dominique and his cellar master, Caroline Gon, to pick each of their parcels at the perfect level of ripeness. Caroline explained that the acidity levels of the 2016s are not dissimilar to those of 2015, but that the lower alcohol means the wines feel fresher and more energetic.

Coming from 60-year-old-plus vines, this was harvested not overly late in order to avoid the ultraripe, honeyed style of Viré-Clessé. Indeed, the nose is bright and balanced. On the palate there is yellow fruit – a huge volume of it – yet with a crisp, crunchy finish.

The 2014 wines were all bottled just before the 2015 harvest using Diam10 corks, and the crus – such as Viré-Clessé – have a slightly different label (effectively the same as those for the other Mâconnais wines but with the colours inverted). Dominique thinks that 2014 is not only an excellent vintage, but also remarkably consistent for every part of the Mâconnais. The entire range is a joy this year.

The warm summer has brought out a lovely Muscat-y character in this wine. It is juicy, peachy, heady, generous and gorgeous, yet with an excellent lime-like intensity at the back. Drink 2017-2020.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Dominique Lafon and his cellar master, Caroline Gon, took a great deal of trouble in 2015 to get their picking dates exactly right. They started on 28th August and picked their Mâconnais wines across a 13-day period, as each sector ripened, with the result that they have avoided high sugar levels and have kept the desired element of freshness in their wines.

Much the tightest bouquet of all the wines in the range, it is very rigorous with great concentration, superb fruit in the background and a really steely intensity. Very long. This counts as very high class wine. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

It was a rush to get everything in on time in the Mâcon vineyards but the team managed it. All the wines now show a light touch of deliberate reduction on first opening, part of the fresh, anti-oxidative regime.

The flagship vineyard has a really delightful bouquet in 2011, with wild flowers and delicious vanilla notes. White peaches dominate the palate, with a perfect balancing acidity and excellent length showing through on the finish. The wine demonstrates perfectly what Dominique Lafon is trying to achieve with his white Burgundy.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director Dominique Lafon’s Mâcon project has been performing to a very high standard during the last several vintages. The wines show all the qualities you would expect from a master winemaker, yet there is no sense at all that he is trying to Côte d’Or wines here. Each cuvée stands out with its own personal characteristics, be it the grace of Clos de la Crochette, the weight of Viré-Clessé or the mineral tension of Clos du Four.

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