Tatenokawa, Phoenix, Junmai Daiginjo, Yamagata Prefecture, Sake, Japan (14%)
About this SPIRIT
Tatenokawa
Although this brewery was founded in 1832, it has its eyes firmly on the future. The current, sixth-generation president, Sato Junpei, leads a young team (all in their 30s) and strives to make the best sake in Japan.
When Sato took over the brewery in 2001, he was faced with a difficult decision; like many breweries, sales were slow with fridges full of unsold stock. Sato-san had to decide whether to end 170 years of sake-making history or to find a way to reinvigorate his brewery. He chose the latter, focusing on quality by drastically cutting the number of products to just one, and reducing production volumes as well.
Tatenokawa now makes only Junmai Daiginjo, the equivalent of a Premier Cru in the sake world. These sakes are made using highly polished rice, and have no spirit added during the production process. The result is pure and delicate sakes with subtle fruity and floral notes and a silk-like texture.
Based in Yamagata, Tatenokawa uses locally grown rice where possible, including the beautiful Dewasansan. The surrounding mountain ranges of Mt Chokkai, Gassan and Yudono provide a never-ending supply of excellent water, vital in the production of high-quality sake.
Japan
Japan's whisky and sake-making industries have garnered global recognition for their craftsmanship, attention to detail, and respect for tradition. Whisky making in Japan began in the early 20th century, influenced heavily by Scottish techniques. Over time, it has developed a distinctively Japanese style—marked by precision, elegance, and balance. It is often characterised by subtle complexity, with delicate flavours that range from light floral notes to rich, smoky undertones.
One of the most renowned names in Japanese whisky is the House of Suntory, which pioneered the industry. Founded in 1923, Suntory's Yamazaki Distillery was Japan's first malt whisky distillery. Over the years, Suntory has produced a range of award-winning whiskies, including the Yamazaki and Hakushu single malts and the Hibiki blended whisky, all celebrated for their refined taste profiles and craftsmanship.
On the other hand, Japan’s sake industry is deeply rooted in the country’s history, with production techniques refined over centuries. Sake, a traditional rice wine, is brewed using fermented rice, water, yeast, and koji mould. The varying climates and water sources across Japan’s many regions contribute to the unique characteristics of each sake, resulting in a wide array of styles—from crisp, dry sakes to rich, aromatic varieties.
Producers like Dewazakura and Tatenokawa are key names in the sake world, showcasing the diversity of Japan’s sake offerings. The industry’s commitment to quality and innovation has led to a growing global appreciation for Japanese sake, much like the country's whisky. Both spirits have become ambassadors for Japan’s rich heritage and meticulous craftsmanship, solidifying Japan’s place as a leader in fine beverages.
Rice
Alcoholic beverages made from rice, are based on the fermentation of rice starch which converts to natural sugars and alcohol. Unlike the production of beer which utilises mashing to convert starch to sugars, the rice beverage making relies on action of acids or enzymes like amylase.
Rice-based beverages typically have a higher alcohol content, 18%–25% abv, than still wine (9%–15%), and a higher alcohol content than the standard beers (usually 4%–6%).
Sake (a Japanese rice-based brewed alcohol) is misleadingly referred to as Rice Wine, although unlike wine, in which alcohol is produced by fermenting sugar that is naturally present in grapes, sake is produced by means of a brewing process more akin to beer.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
This sake is a collaboration between the Tatenokawa Brewery and Grammy-award winning French rock band, Phoenix. There is a nicely rounded texture here, with savoury umami notes making this a versatile sake ideal for pairing with a wide array of foods including roast meats. A portion of the brewery's profits from sales of this sake are donated to the Japanese Red Cross.
Rob Whitehead, Spirits Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (November 2024)
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