Nc'nean Botanical Spirit, Argyll, Scotland (40%)

Because they use deliciously characterful new-make spirit from their single malt whisky stills – as opposed to the legally mandated neutral spirit – Nc’Nean cannot refer to this little beauty as a gin. The spirit is brightly herbal on the nose, with subtle spice and sweet cereal notes. Tonic water seems to bring the citrussy grapefruit elements to the fore. The palate is chewy and toothsome, the herbal aspects becoming greener and more savoury. The finish returns to luscious barley and the cleanliness so indicative of expert distillation. I drink this as a long drink with uncomplicated tonic and ever so slightly too much ice.

Rob Whitehead, Spirits buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (March 2021)