About this SPIRIT
Hine
Thomas Hine was originally from Dorset and came out to Cognac, aged only 19, in 1791. He joined a local Cognac firm, married the owner`s daughter and became a partner in the firm. Later on, the house took his name to become Thomas Hine & Co.
Hine's acknowledged expertise lies in the field of Grande Champagne vintage Cognacs— particularly single-cask Cognacs. Hine has an impressive collection of vintages, from the beginning of the last century, kept in locked cellars at the Quai de L’Orangerie. Hine also initiated the concept of making such rarities commercially available throughout the world.
Another Hine speciality is their concentration on the maturing of so-called “early-landed” Cognacs. This custom dates to the 19th century, when they first shipped selected vintage Grande Champagne Cognacs in cask to Bristol, in England. Nowadays, Hine still ships some of its single vintage Cognacs to the UK (and is one of a very rare few estates who continue this tradition) after they have spent several months ageing in new oak barrels in Jarnac.
Cool, dark cellars house barely a hundred barrels of early-landed Cognac (a barrel is the equivalent volume to around 350 bottles). Here, the ageing conditions are quite different from those in Jarnac as the temperature is low and the high humidity level rarely drops below 95%. These factors ensure that Hine's early-landed Cognacs are particularly light and fruity with very delicate oaky notes, and delightful aromas of fresh flowers and the characteristic orange peel.
In Jarnac, the River Charente is close to the Chai des Millésimes — and this is the only point in common with the cellar conditions in Bristol: the humidity level is completely different, varying between 70 and 90%. The cellar is just two metres below the level of the Charente and subject to temperature fluctuations which can vary between 6.5°C in winter and 20.5°C during the summer. The ageing conditions in the Chai des Millésimes in Jarnac lend the Cognacs greater complexity and structure; with a richer bouquet, more pronounced oaky notes and the much prized “rancio”, so characteristic of old Cognacs.
For the last 20 years, Cellar Master Eric Forget has been the custodian to these casks, and his encyclopaedic knowledge ensure he can always select the best Cognac to become a coveted single cask. Each cask is personally tested by him during an annual inventory check and particularly good vintages are set aside for private clients. He also spends a great deal of time looking to the future and protecting the environment for future generations. In Eric’s words, “we must change everything”. A recent project includes looking for a grape besides Ugni Blanc to make Cognac from – one that is more well-suited to the rising temperatures.
Rigorous grape selection, low yields, high quality control during winemaking, traditional distillation, extended ageing in seasoned oak barrels and an evaporation rate of 2 to 3% each year, result in small quantities of the finest Cognac. In the 1990s, Hine released only a few thousand bottles of 1914, 1938, 1948, 1952, 1953, 1957, 1960, 1961, 1975 vintages (1957, 1960 and 1975 were particularly exceptional), whilst in the early 2000’s vintage Cognacs from 1978, 1981, 1982, 1983, were released.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
Hine’s benchmark XO is every bit as suave and generous as the Cognac House’s cellar master, Eric Forget. Complex and rewarding, with sweet fruit, perfumed spice and ethereal rancio, this is Cognac for the knowledgeable and neophyte alike. I feel lucky to have enjoyed many glasses over many evenings, with one of the most memorable being surrounded by friends in the Bonneuil vineyards of Hine. This is truly one of the iconic Cognac bottlings.
Rob Whitehead, Spirits Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (October 2023)
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