2005 Calvario, Finca Allende, Rioja, Spain
Critics reviews
Neal Martin - 31/08/2012
About this WINE
Finca Allende
Finca Allende, the estate created by Brother and sister team Mercedes and Miguel Angel de Gregorio, is located in the hill town of Briones in the Rioja Alta. 'Allende' can be roughly translated as 'further'; its philosophy is to go further and further towards creating the perfect Rioja. This has been done by marrying the old and the new, by embracing the traditional grape varieties but then treating them to new French oak. A further distinguishing characteristic, apart from their ripeness and structure, is that Allende's best wines are vineyard-based, with focus on the expression of Rioja's varied terroir.
Finca Allende's production comes from their own 22 hectares supplemented by contracts with certain other growers in Briones. The principal cuvée is 100% Tempranillo aged for thirteen months in predominantly French oak. The oldest vines (Tempranillo with some Graciano) are kept back to make Aurus.
The full potential of the estate is eloquently illustrated by Calvario, a single-vineyard wine from 65+ year-old Tempranillo vines with magnificent aromatics and lush fruit, that clearly underlines the family's qualitative aspirations.
Best of BBX: Rioja
Tempranillo/Tinto Fino
A high quality red wine grape that is grown all over Spain except in the hot South - it is known as Tinto Fino in Ribera del Duero, Cencibel in La Mancha and Valdepenas and Ull de Llebre in Catalonia. Its spiritual home is in Rioja and Navarra where it constitutes around 70% of most red blends.
Tempranillo-based wines tend to have a spicy, herbal, tobacco-like character accompanied by ripe strawberry and red cherry fruits. It produces fresh, vibrantly fruit driven "jovenes" meant for drinking young. However Tempranillo really comes into its own when oak aged, as with the top Riojas where its flavours seem to harmonise perfectly with both French and American oak, producing rich, powerful and concentrated wines which can be extraordinarily long-lived.
In Ribera del Duero it generally sees less oak - the exception being Vega Sicilia where it is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and then aged for an astonishing 7 years in oak and is unquestionably one of the world`s greatest wines.
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Description
Very serious, classic and classy Bordeaux-esque nose, this is all about poise, balance and structure on the palate, with the beautifully defined spicy fruit vying for attention with the fine tannins, creating a mouth-filling whole which is a real treat. A sublime wine, this is really something special. Lovely now, this will drink for two decades from the vintage.
(Chris Pollington, Cellar Plan Advisor) Miguel Angel Gregorio's particular vision of Calvary dates from 1945 and is a clay/chalk vineyard of no apparent distinction. With Tempranillo vines dating from this seemingly magical year (not just Peace in Europe but also the birth date of Artadi's El Pison vineyard) and an ambitious elevage that involves over 20 months in 100% new French oak, there is an apparent risk of over-indulgence. This does not appear to be the case when tasting the wine; the oak is already wonderfully integrated, the tannins very fine with layers of fruit, spice and minerals etched with lapidary care.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
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