2010 Vosne-Romanée, Les Beaux Monts, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot, Burgundy
This is more elegant still with superb aromatic purity and depth that speaks of notably cool red and black pinot fruit, anise, clove and cinnamon hints. The complexity doesn’t stop with the nose either as the intensely mineral-driven flavors also possess outstanding depth, all wrapped in a tension-filled and explosive finish. It’s not yet clear whether this will be able to match the stunningly good ’09 but it will at least be a horse race as this is genuinely terrific but note that plenty of patience will be necessary. 2025+
(Allen Meadows - burghound.com - January 2012)
About this WINE
Domaine Jean Grivot
Jean Grivot took over from his father, Gaston, in 1955. He handed the domaine on to son Étienne – married to Marielle Bize from Savigny – in the early 1980s. When Etienne Grivot took over, the house style was for gentle, graceful wines, perhaps a little weak in lesser vintages.
Étienne has since found his own voice, making a range of increasingly fine wines. Since the mid-2000s, he has reduced yields and fine-tuned vineyard and cellar work. The next generation – Mathilde and Hubert – are increasingly influential, working under their father’s experienced and wise guidance.
A small appellation entirely the ‘wrong’ side of the RN74 but nonetheless capable of producing delicious early drinking red Burgundy (though sometimes ageworthy from Tollot Beaut) and occasional whites.
- 168 hectares of village Chorey-lès-Beaune.
- No premier or grand cru vineyards.
- Recommended Producers: Tollot Beaut, Château de Chorey (Germain)
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
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A lovely mid purple colour, this wine is very dense with a classy nose of redcurrant and some richer notes, but all held together by a lacy quality which keeps one sniffing for more. There is notable latent power, despite the immediate charm and elegance, and I have no doubt that this will be a great wine in the years to come.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director
This has been one of the most exciting cellars in the whole of Burgundy for the last few vintages, a fact which is beginning to be reflected in the pricing. The significant reduction in crop this year, which Etienne Grivot ascribes more to the extreme winter cold than poor flowering, is also a factor. Etienne has been working hard to refine the tannins in his wines, and has surely succeeded in 2010, by producing wines of great energy but with suave, sophisticated finishes. These are brilliant wines that unfortunately, are in short supply.
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