About this WINE
Sixth-generation Mario Fontana is among Barolo’s best-loved producers. His wines are undeniably the most Burgundian in our range; purity and finesse is as evident in his Dolcetto as his Barolo. Mario follows organic methods but doesn’t seek certification – this would limit his options if his vines needed attention. His philosophy is individual, without peer influence. Barolisti like Mario set a benchmark here; others pursue and imitate – though rarely achieve – his purity and elegance. Fontana’s greatest achievements are rooted in Castiglione Falletto: the wines express the complexity of the village’s terroir. Only made in the best years, their Castiglione Falletto Barolo is one of the region’s finest examples.
Mario decided to bottle his Barolo in August 2021, a little earlier than usual, to capture the wine’s fresh and easy style. He also decided to shorten maceration times. All the Castiglione Falletto fruit is in the Barolo Classico this year, so there is no Barolo di Castiglione Falletto for this vintage. Mario doesn’t consider this a reflection of what he has produced; he wanted to lend more power to the softer style of his Barolo Classico 2018, for which he needed the best wine from the crus that would usually comprise his top cuvée. As a vintage, he finds it immensely appealing – a welcome alternative to the more structured styles of ’17 and ’16.
Located due south of Alba and the River Tanaro, Barolo is Piedmont's most famous wine DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), renowned for producing Italy's finest red wines from 100 percent Nebbiolo.
Its red wines were originally sweet, but in 1840 the then extant Italian monarchy, the House of Savoy, ordered them to be altered to a dry style. This project was realised by French oenologist Louis Oudart, whose experience with Pinot Noir had convinced him of Nebbiolo's potential. The Barolo appellation was formalised in 1966 at around 1,700 hectares – only a tenth of the size of Burgundy, but almost three times as big as neighbouring Barbaresco.
Upgraded to DOCG status in 1980, Barolo comprises two distinct soil types: the first is a Tortonian sandy marl that produces a more feminine style of wine and can be found in the villages of Barolo, La Morra, Cherasco, Verduno, Novello, Roddi and parts of Castiglione Falletto. The second is the older Helvetian sandstone clay that bestows the wines with a more muscular style. This can be found in Monforte d'Alba, Serralunga d'Alba, Diano d'Alba, Grinzane Cavour and the other parts of Castiglione Falletto. Made today from the Nebbiolo clones Lampia, Michet and Rosé, Barolo has an exceptional terroir with almost every village perched on its own hill. The climate is continental, with an extended summer and autumn enabling the fickle Nebbiolo to achieve perfect ripeness.
Inspired by the success of modernists such as Elio Altare, there has been pressure in recent years to reduce the ageing requirements for Barolo; this has mostly been driven by new producers to the region, often with no Piedmontese viticultural heritage and armed with their roto-fermenters and barriques, intent on making a fruitier, more modern style of wine.
This modern style arguably appeals more to the important American market and its scribes, but the traditionalists continue to argue in favour of making Barolo in the classic way. They make the wine in a mix of epoxy-lined cement or stainless-steel cuves, followed by extended ageing in 25-hectoliter Slavonian botte (barrels) to gently soften and integrate the tannins. However, even amongst the traditionalists there has been a move, since the mid-1990s, towards using physiologically (rather than polyphenolically) riper fruit, aided by global warming. Both modernist and traditional schools can produce exceptional or disappointing wines.
Recommended traditionalist producers:
Giacomo Borgogno, Giacomo Conterno, Bruno Giacosa, Elio Grasso, Marcarini, Bartolo Mascarello and Giuseppe Mascarello.
Recommended nmdernist producers:
Azelia, Aldo Conterno, Luciano Sandrone, Paolo Scavino and Roberto Voerzio
Nebbiolo is the grape behind the Barolo and Barbaresco wines and is hardly ever seen outside the confines of Piedmont. It takes its name from "nebbia" which is Italian for fog, a frequent phenomenon in the region.
A notoriously pernickety grape, it requires sheltered south-facing sites and performs best on the well-drained calcareous marls to the north and south of Alba in the DOCG zones of Barbaresco and Barolo.
Langhe Nebbiolo is effectively the ‘second wine’ of Piedmont’s great Barolo & Barbarescos. This DOC is the only way Langhe producers can declassify their Barolo or Barbaresco fruit or wines to make an early-drinking style. Unlike Nebbiolo d’Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo can be cut with 15% other red indigenous varieties, such as Barbera or Dolcetto.
Nebbiolo flowers early and ripens late, so a long hang time, producing high levels of sugar, acidity and tannins; the challenge being to harvest the fruit with these three elements ripe and in balance. The best Barolos and Barbarescos are perfumed with aromas of tar, rose, mint, chocolate, liquorice and truffles. They age brilliantly and the very best need ten years to show at their best.
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It was his grandfather Saverio who reminded Mario of the merits of producing Barolo with one's own Nebbiolo fruit, rather than buying from those around. Mario took this lesson to heart, building on Saverio's legacy. He's gone a step further in 2011, introducing a battery of cement tanks in which to marry the wine – a blend of fruit from Castiglione Falletto and La Morra – prior to bottling. This has definitely given the 2011 Barolo a more relaxed, harmonious feel: dark strawberry-garnet, the nose charms with joyful summer fruit, of raspberry and strawberry, along with a hint of quinine and orange peel. It's very relaxed and civil, like Mario, yet with a more serious kernel of intensity, a tea-leaf and bergamot fragrance, a sense of purpose, of profoundness, sapid and long.
Sixth-generation Barolo producer Mario Fontana set out on his own in 1995, and since then has been refining his Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo wines with each year that passes. His Barolo is arguably the most Burgundian of our range, with delicacy and gentleness that comes from reasonable yields, traditional vinification, maturation in large Slavonian oak for 24 months and having one’s feet on the ground. He has just planted another hectare in the village of Sinio, taking the total to five hectares (the others being in Castiglione Falletto and La Morra, the latter belonging to his wife Luisa).
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