2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Réserve des Célestins, Henri Bonneau, Rhône

Lastly, the 2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve des Célestins will be bottled probably sometime next year, but you can never be too sure. It’s a classic 2011 that’s put-on weight since I tasted it last year and offers terrific notes of lavender, garrigue, kirsch, fruit cake and pepper. Full-bodied, opulent and incredibly sexy on the palate, with a similar, yet even more open, style than the 12, it’s a wine that’s going to drink nicely right out of the gate yet also evolve beautifully. This iconic estate is no doubt in a transitional phase following the loss of Henri Bonneau in 2016. The young Marcel Bonneau is now at the helm and is receiving help from both Daniel Combin on the business side and Régis Charmasson in the vineyards and cave. The 2016 will be Marcel’s first vintage on his own, and the barrel samples are certainly promising.

Deep ruby. Potent aromas of cassis, blueberry, fruitcake, violet and smoky minerals. Impressively deep, seamless and broad, offering black and blue fruit flavors accented by espresso, cola, star anise and cracked pepper. For all its power and richness this wild wine comes across as almost feminine, showing impressive lift and focus thanks to bright, juicy acidity. The deep, sappy blackcurrant and blueberry flavors come back strong on the long, spicy finish.