2012 Pommard, Clos des Epeneaux, 1er Cru, Comte Armand, Burgundy

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux from Domaine Comte Armand has more red rather than black fruit on the nose with plenty of wild blackberry and raspberry aromas coming through, though there is some new oak still to be resolved. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chewy tannin, good acidity but again, the oak still conspicuous and more expressive than the terroir at the moment. Then again, with knowledge of the producer, I know how this wine sheds its tannins and benefits from several years in bottle. This is one of those Burgundy wines that could go either way, but given the grower, will give it the benefit of the doubt because of those aromatics.

Densely layered, powerful wine; tightly wound flavours. The texture is balanced by concentrated dark berry and earthy flavours.

Drink 2018 - 2026.

In most vintages, there are three distinct cuvees that make up the final blend for the flagship Pommard Clos des Epeneaux, but in 2012 there are just two. The first cuvee, from the top of the vineyard, is intensely tannic and structured. Floral notes lead to dark red cherries and crushed rocks in a wine that is all about crystalline purity and delineation. The second cuvee, from the bottom of the hill, presents more depth and volume. A representation of the final blend is striking. Sadly, the entire production will be bottled only in magnums, of which there will be just 4,000 to go around, versus the normal production of about 22,000 bottles. Readers who can find the 2012 should not hesitate, as it is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage.

Drink 2022 - 2042