2012 Champagne Pol Roger, Sir Winston Churchill, Brut
About this WINE
Pol Roger
Pol Roger is perhaps best known as Winston Churchill's favourite Champagne. The house remains family-owned and has a reputation for producing champagnes of finesse and elegance which age very well. Pol Roger Brut Rèserve Non-Vintage, made from equal parts of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, is consistently one of the very best on the market, largely due to the high proportion of aged reserve wines in the blend.
Pol Roger vintage wines, made from at least 60% Pinot Noir and up to 40% Chardonnay, are soft and fruit-driven in youth but, after ten years or so, develop great complexity and finesse. The Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, launched in 1984 and made from a secret blend, is a Champagne of exquisite finesse and balance and one that rivals the very best of the region.
Brut Champagne
Brut denotes a dry style of Champagne (less than 15 grams per litre). Most Champagne is non-vintage, produced from a blend from different years. The non-vintage blend is always based predominately on wines made from the current harvest, enriched with aged wines (their proportion and age varies by brand) from earlier harvests, which impart an additional level of complexity to the end wine. Champagnes from a single vintage are labelled with the year reference and with the description Millésimé.
Non-vintage Champagnes can improve with short-term ageing (typically two to three years), while vintages can develop over much longer periods (five to 30 years). The most exquisite and often top-priced expression of a house’s style is referred to as Prestige Cuvée. Famous examples include Louis Roederer's Cristal, Moët & Chandon's Dom Pérignon, and Pol Roger's Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill.
Recommended Producers : Krug, Billecart Salmon, Pol Roger, Bollinger, Salon, Gosset, Pierre Péters, Ruinart
Champagne blend
Which grapes are included in the blend, and their proportion, is one of the key factors determining the style of most Champagnes. Three grapes are used - Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.
26% of vineyards in Champagne are planted with Chardonnay and it performs best on the Côtes des Blancs and on the chalk slopes south of Epernay. It is relatively simple to grow, although it buds early and thus is susceptible to spring frosts. It produces lighter, fresher wines than those from Burgundy and gives finesse, fruit and elegance to the final blend. It is the sole grape in Blancs de Blancs, which are some of the richest long-lived Champagnes produced.
Pinot Noir accounts for nearly 40% of the plantings in Champagne and lies at the heart of most blends - it gives Champagne its body, structure, strength and grip. It is planted across Champagne and particularly so in the southern Aube district.
The final component is Pinot Meunier and this constitutes nearly 35% of the plantings. Its durability and resistance to spring frosts make the Marne Valley, a notorious frost pocket, its natural home. It ripens well in poor years and produces a soft, fruity style of wine that is ideal for blending with the more assertive flavours of Pinot Noir. Producers allege that Pinot Meunier lacks ageing potential, but this does not deter Krug from including around 15% of it in their final blends.
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Description
I was a huge fan of the 2008 Sir Winston but this is certainly equally as good. The 2012 maintains the classic Pol richness and vivacity whilst also perfectly showcasing the elegance and length of the vintage. Sir Winston is all about subtle balance, never overstated but always reassuringly forthright. The elegance of the vintage comes across in the wine’s more welcoming personality, 2008 is impressively tight whilst 2012 shows generous fruit in the mouth, an open and approachable feel yet still with tremendous power and depth behind.
Red fruit crunchiness aligns neatly with impressions of brioche, baked apple and honey. The finish is long and fine, offering an uplifting combination of quince and citrus, but the standout for this year’s offering has to be its precision. Winemaking has never been better at this address and the class and finesse of the 2012 demonstrates that in spades.
Drink 2023 - 2033
Peter Newton, Account Manager, Berry Bros. & Rudd
An absolute privilege to sample the latest Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill. There is incredible precision on the nose, showing delicate notes of waxed lemon, violets and a touch of toasted almond. The palate is simply divine; ripe and opulent white peach, apricots, apple tarte tatin, freshly baked bread encompassed in a vibrant mousse. There is an exceptional backbone of minerality too, giving this Champagne superb balance. I’d put this up with the 2008 in quality, it is truly exceptional.
Drink 2022 - 2035
Paul Keating, Account Manager, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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