2012 Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine Michel Niellon, Burgundy
Critics reviews
Burghound.com - Issue #55
About this WINE
Michel Niellon
Michel Niellon operates out of two absurdly small cellars in Chassagne, producing quite simply sublime wines. He has only 6 hectares of vines, which include small holdings in Chevalier and Bâtard-Montrachet. Old vines and low yields give these wines their intensity, along with Niellon`s supreme winemaking skills.
Supply is severely rationed due to the small size of the domaine and Niellon`s huge following in the United States. But, for those lucky enough to secure some bottles, the rewards are immense.
Chevalier-Montrachet
Chevalier-Montrachet is one of the most renowned Grand Cru vineyards in Burgundy. Located in the Côte de Beaune subregion, specifically in the villages of Puligny Montrachet and Chassagne Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet is famous for producing exceptional white wines. The terroir is characterized by its limestone-rich soils, which contribute to the minerality and complexity of the wines. The vineyard's exposure to the sun, slope, and altitude also play crucial roles in shaping the unique characteristics of the wines.
Only white wines are produced in Chevalier-Montrachet and are exclusively made from Chardonnay grapes. The wines are known for their richness, elegance, and complexity, often displaying a combination of citrus, orchard fruit, floral, and mineral notes.
Chevalier-Montrachet wines are known for their ability to age gracefully. The best vintages can evolve and improve in the bottle for several decades, developing additional complexity and nuance over time. Production is limited, however, due to the small size of the vineyards.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
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Description
This is ripe to the point where the fruit runs toward the exotic with its dried yellow fruit, pineapple and spiced white pear aromas. The textured, concentrated and serious medium full flavors exude a fine minerality on the impressively long and sappy finish. This is a nice blend of generosity and underlying tension and while this isn't exactly typical it is impressive in its fashion as this is a very big Chevalier that should be approachable young if desired.
Burghound.com - Issue #55
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