2012 Champagne Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses, Juste, Rosé, Extra Brut
Critics reviews
Disgorged: March 2022
The 2012 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé is a wild, exotic wine. Kirsch, white pepper, flowers, mint and cranberry, lend a gorgeous air of exoticism. As always, the Rosé is light in body, gracious and all finesse. The blend is 68% Pinot Noir and 32% Chardonnay. This is the first release made with a blend of a Blanc de Noirs base, with the ‘still red’ portion (18%) coming from a saignée. Time in the glass brings out the breadth and natural texture of the year. This is a gorgeous Rosé from Philipponat.
Drink 2022 - 2030
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (November 2022)
In the past, I've been almost tempted to categorise this as white champagne, not pink. Still, this blend of white wine and rosé de saignée (no maceration – they don't want tannin) is slightly darker than usual, so very pale pink instead of somewhat pinkish white. 68% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay. All base wine was fermented in oak. No malo. Dosage 4.5 g/l. The first vintage of this cuvée was 1999, and it's made every three years or so. 2009 was the last one. Fewer than 3,000 bottles made.
Very dense and deep-flavoured, yet this tastes seriously fresh – a combination of the intensity of the terroir and the high natural acidity unmitigated by malolactic conversion.
Drink 2022 - 2034
Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com (November 2022)
About this WINE
Champagne Philipponnat
Champagne Philipponnat is based in Mareuil sur Aÿ Roman in along the banks of the River Marne. Philipponnat makes a wide range of wines but the house’s fame rests squarely on the monumental Clos des Goisses, a Pinot-dominated Champagne that emerges from a 5.5 hectare vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay.
Rosé Champagne
Rosé wines are produced by leaving the juice of red grapes to macerate on their skins for a brief time to extract pigments (natural colourings). However, Rosé Champagne is notable in that it is produced by the addition of a small percentage of red wine – usually Pinot Noir from the village of Bouzy – during blending.
Recommended Producers : Billecart Salmon (Elizabeth Salmon Rose), Ruinart
Champagne blend
Which grapes are included in the blend, and their proportion, is one of the key factors determining the style of most Champagnes. Three grapes are used - Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.
26% of vineyards in Champagne are planted with Chardonnay and it performs best on the Côtes des Blancs and on the chalk slopes south of Epernay. It is relatively simple to grow, although it buds early and thus is susceptible to spring frosts. It produces lighter, fresher wines than those from Burgundy and gives finesse, fruit and elegance to the final blend. It is the sole grape in Blancs de Blancs, which are some of the richest long-lived Champagnes produced.
Pinot Noir accounts for nearly 40% of the plantings in Champagne and lies at the heart of most blends - it gives Champagne its body, structure, strength and grip. It is planted across Champagne and particularly so in the southern Aube district.
The final component is Pinot Meunier and this constitutes nearly 35% of the plantings. Its durability and resistance to spring frosts make the Marne Valley, a notorious frost pocket, its natural home. It ripens well in poor years and produces a soft, fruity style of wine that is ideal for blending with the more assertive flavours of Pinot Noir. Producers allege that Pinot Meunier lacks ageing potential, but this does not deter Krug from including around 15% of it in their final blends.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
Disgorged: March 2022
The 2012 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé is a wild, exotic wine. Kirsch, white pepper, flowers, mint and cranberry, lend a gorgeous air of exoticism. As always, the Rosé is light in body, gracious and all finesse. The blend is 68% Pinot Noir and 32% Chardonnay. This is the first release made with a blend of a Blanc de Noirs base, with the ‘still red’ portion (18%) coming from a saignée. Time in the glass brings out the breadth and natural texture of the year. This is a gorgeous Rosé from Philipponat.
Drink 2022 - 2030
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (November 2022)
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