The 2012 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé is a wild, exotic wine. Kirsch, white pepper, flowers, mint and cranberry, lend a gorgeous air of exoticism. As always, the Rosé is light in body, gracious and all finesse. The blend is 68% Pinot Noir and 32% Chardonnay.
This is the first release made with a blend of a Blanc de Noirs base, with the ‘still red’ portion (18%) coming from a saignée. Time in the glass brings out the breadth and natural texture of the year. This is a gorgeous Rosé from Philipponat.
Disgorged: March 2022
Drink 2022 - 2030
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (November 2022)
In the past, I've been almost tempted to categorise this as white champagne, not pink. Still, this blend of white wine and rosé de saignée (no maceration – they don't want tannin) is slightly darker than usual, so very pale pink instead of somewhat pinkish white.
68% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay. All base wine was fermented in oak. No malo. Dosage 4.5 g/l. The first vintage of this cuvée was 1999, and it's made every three years or so. 2009 was the last one. Fewer than 3,000 bottles made.
Very dense and deep-flavoured, yet this tastes seriously fresh – a combination of the intensity of the terroir and the high natural acidity unmitigated by malolactic conversion.
Drink 2022 - 2034
Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com (November 2022)
About this WINE
Champagne Philipponnat is based in Mareuil sur Aÿ Roman in along the banks of the River Marne. Philipponnat makes a wide range of wines but the house’s fame rests squarely on the monumental Clos des Goisses, a Pinot-dominated Champagne that emerges from a 5.5 hectare vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay.
Brut denotes a dry style of Champagne (less than 15 grams per litre). Most Champagne is non-vintage, produced from a blend from different years. The non-vintage blend is always based predominately on wines made from the current harvest, enriched with aged wines (their proportion and age varies by brand) from earlier harvests, which impart an additional level of complexity to the end wine. Champagnes from a single vintage are labelled with the year reference and with the description Millésimé.
Non-vintage Champagnes can improve with short-term ageing (typically two to three years), while vintages can develop over much longer periods (five to 30 years). The most exquisite and often top-priced expression of a house’s style is referred to as Prestige Cuvée. Famous examples include Louis Roederer's Cristal, Moët & Chandon's Dom Pérignon, and Pol Roger's Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill.
Which grapes are included in the blend, and their proportion, is one of the key factors determining the style of most Champagnes. Three grapes are used - Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.
26% of vineyards in Champagne are planted with Chardonnay and it performs best on the Côtes des Blancs and on the chalk slopes south of Epernay. It is relatively simple to grow, although it buds early and thus is susceptible to spring frosts. It produces lighter, fresher wines than those from Burgundy and gives finesse, fruit and elegance to the final blend. It is the sole grape in Blancs de Blancs, which are some of the richest long-lived Champagnes produced.
Pinot Noir accounts for nearly 40% of the plantings in Champagne and lies at the heart of most blends - it gives Champagne its body, structure, strength and grip. It is planted across Champagne and particularly so in the southern Aube district.
The final component is Pinot Meunier and this constitutes nearly 35% of the plantings. Its durability and resistance to spring frosts make the Marne Valley, a notorious frost pocket, its natural home. It ripens well in poor years and produces a soft, fruity style of wine that is ideal for blending with the more assertive flavours of Pinot Noir. Producers allege that Pinot Meunier lacks ageing potential, but this does not deter Krug from including around 15% of it in their final blends.