Monica Larner - 29/06/2018
About this WINE
The Schwarz family have owned La Màgia since the mid-1970s. Originally from Alto Adige, they were among the first producers of Brunello di Montalcino to estate-bottle their wines. Second-generation Fabian runs this organic estate, having started here in 2005. He has redefined the estate’s character and continues to realise the potential of its terroir. The quality of the raw material is paramount to Fabian’s philosophy; he chooses to focus on vine health first. The estate’s crowning glory is the old Sangiovese vineyard planted by Fabian’s father in 1974 and exclusively registered as Brunello. The best vines surround an ancient cherry tree, vinified separately in his cru, Ciliegio. The farm sits high above the Abbey of Sant’Animo – a UNESCO World Heritage site – and faces Mount Amiata. Its 400- to 450-metre elevation and exposure to mountain winds create a unique, cooler microclimate, adding freshness and energy to the wines.
In the winery, fermentations are natural and long. When it comes to maturation, La Màgia is experimental rather than traditional (or, indeed, modernist). Fabian experiments with coopers and barrel sizes; a combination of barrique, tonneau, amphora and traditional botti grande fill his barricaia. Each plot has its own personality and receives its own treatment. His low-intervention approach yields wines that are elegant, terroir-driven and individual. Once, pilgrims rested at the fattoria; now, this hallowed ground holds a different kind of magic.
Brunello di Montalcino
Along with Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino is Tuscany's most famous DOCG and the region's boldest expression of Sangiovese. Located 30 miles south of Siena with the hilltop town of Montalcino as its epicentre, its 2,000 hectares of vines are naturally delimited by the Orcia, Asso and Ombrone valleys. Brunello is the local name for the Sangiovese Grosso clone from which Brunello di Montalcino should be made in purezza (ie 100 percent).
The Brunello di Montalcino DOCG has a whale-like shape: at its head, at 661 metres above sea level on ancient, stony galestro soils facing east and southeast lies the town of Montalcino, where the DOC was founded. As you follow the spine south towards the tail, the vineyards lose altitude – those around Colle Sant'Angelo are at 250 metres – while the soils become richer with iron and clay. Further east, in the shadow of the 1,734 metre Mont'Amiata lies the village of Castelnuovo dell'Abate where the vineyards are strewn with a rich mix of galestro, granitic, volcanic, clay and schist soil types.
Historically, the zone is one of Tuscany's youngest. First praised in 1550 by Leandro Alberti for the quality of its wines, it was Tenuta Il Greppo who bottled the inaugural Brunello di Montalcino in 1888. By 1929, the region had 925 hectares of vines and 1,243 hectares of mixed crops, while in 1932 it was decreed that only those wines made and bottled within the commune could be labelled as Brunello di Montalcino. Since then, the number of producers has risen from 11 in 1960 to 230 in 2006, while over the same period the vineyards have expanded from 1,000 hectares to 12,000. The region earned its DOC in 1966, and was upgraded to DOCG in 1980.
Brunello di Montalcino cannot be released for sale until five years after the harvest, or six years in the case of Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. During this time the wines should be aged for at least two years in oak, followed by at least four months in bottle (six months for Riservas); maximum yields are 55 hl/ha.
Rosso di Montalcino is declassified Brunello di Montalcino, released for sale 18 months after the harvest.
It is a high yielding, late ripening grape that performs best on well-drained calcareous soils on south-facing hillsides. For years it was blighted by poor clonal selection and massive overcropping - however since the 1980s the quality of Sangiovese-based wines has rocketed upwards and they are now some of the most sought after in the world.
It produces wines with pronounced tannins and acidity, though not always with great depth of colour, and its character can vary from farmyard/leather nuances through to essence of red cherries and plums. In the 1960s the advent of Super Tuscans saw bottlings of 100% Sangiovese wines, as well as the introduction of Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon blends, the most famous being Tignanello.