Au Bon Climat

The late Jim Clendenen founded Au Bon Climat (ABC) in 1982. He became famous for making pioneering wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay on California’s Central Coast. He passed away in 2021 and is remembered as one of the most charismatic and influential people of his vinous generation.

Jim’s passion for wine was born from a trip to Burgundy in the mid-1970s when he studied Law at UC Santa Barbara. During subsequent visits, his enthusiasm for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grew, and he became convinced that the Californian hills were capable of something special with these two noble varieties.

Au Bon Climat translates as “a well-exposed vineyard”, a name that suits the vineyards’ coastal position, with its benevolent Pacific fog and cooling breeze. Making the most of these conditions, ABC buy clones from Burgundy. This contributes to creating wines that emulate Europe’s restraint and finesse but with a magic touch of New World flair.

The vineyards ABC source their grapes from read as a ‘who’s who’ of Central Coast vineyards. Bien Nacido and Jim’s “Le Bon Climat” are the most significant contributors. The influence of the Pacific can be felt standing in the canyon of Bien Nacido, where the warm days and cool nights characterise this superb terroir. Le Bon Climat, in contrast, consists of mainly hilltop vineyards which were certified organic in 2003.

Central Coast AVA

The Central Coast of California is one of the state’s most dynamic and diverse wine regions, spanning from the southern part of the San Francisco Bay Area to Santa Barbara County. With over 100,000 acres of vineyards, the region encompasses notable areas like Monterey County and Paso Robles, each with unique characteristics.

Its proximity to the Pacific Ocean significantly influences its climate, with cool coastal breezes and fog moderating temperatures. This allows for slower ripening, preserving acidity and producing well-balanced wines. The diversity of microclimates, from the cool coastal zones of Santa Lucia Highlands to the warmer inland areas of Paso Robles, supports a wide array of grape varieties.

The region is celebrated for both cool- and warm-climate grape varieties. Cool-climate grapes like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir thrive in Santa Barbara and Santa Lucia Highlands. Chardonnay here ranges from crisp green apple to lush tropical fruit flavours, while Pinot Noir is known for its elegant red berry, earth, and spice notes. Warmer regions like Paso Robles excel with bold reds, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Zinfandel. These wines are often full-bodied, showcasing dark fruit, spice, and oak influences, with Rhône-style blends being a particular highlight.

Several subregions stand out for their unique contributions to Central Coast winemaking. With its transverse valleys that funnel cool ocean air inland, Santa Barbara County is renowned for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, particularly in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. Paso Robles, a warmer inland area, is famous for its robust reds and diverse Rhône blends, supported by its 11 sub-AVAs. Monterey County benefits from strong coastal influences, producing excellent cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, while the rugged Santa Cruz Mountains yield high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

The Central Coast is also a hub for winemaking innovation. Many producers experiment with small-batch production, non-traditional blends, and sustainable practices, including organic and biodynamic farming. This approach aligns with the growing consumer demand for environmentally conscious wine production. The region’s laid-back culture further enhances its appeal, offering visitors a welcoming and authentic connection to the land and the winemaking process.

Prominent wineries in the region include Tensley Wines, known for its commitment to sustainability, and Au Bon Climat in Santa Barbara, specialising in Burgundian-style Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.