2013 Hundred Acre, Kayli Morgan Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, USA
Lisa Perrotti-Brown - 07/12/2018
About this WINE
Hundred Acre Winery
Flamboyant, visionary, genius, arrogant, volatile and contrarian – all adjectives used to describe Jayson Woodbridge, owner and winemaker of Hundred Acre Vineyard, who in his quest for making exceptional Napa Cabs has not been afraid of ruffling a few feathers along the way. The 9 acre Kayli Morgan vineyard, situated at the base of Howell Mountain, is planted exclusively to Cabernet Sauvignon and has been the foundation of Hundred Acre’s wines since their debut in 2000. Woodbridge is fastidious in both vineyard and winery, with the wines harvested grape by grape rather than bunch by bunch before further hand sorting to eliminate anything that is not deemed perfect. Aged in new French oak or varying sizes, with the 500l puncheon being the preferred vessel for the long ageing regimes employed, typically 2.5 to 3 years. These are cult wines on a par with the likes of Harlan and Screaming Eagle, so don’t come cheap but are superb.
North Coast's Napa Valley is California's most famous viticultural area (AVA), claiming some of the most expensive agricultural land in the world and producing wines of cult status.
Its 16,000 ha of vines lie over a strip (40 miles long-5 miles wide) of diverse soils (clay, gravely, volcanic), with its northernmost end on the side of Mountain Helena and its foot in San Francisco Bay. The valley is framed by two mountains ranges Vaca (to the north) and Mayacamas (to the south), yet the main climatic influence is the cool wind and fog that is sucked in from San Pablo Bay during the afternoon, allowing grapes to ripen slowly and evenly.
The area enjoys a variety of unique microclimates, as temperatures can vary dramatically as much as 15 degrees, from the north to the south end of the valley. These differences have led to the creation of several sub-AVAs (14 in total) including:
Atlas Peak, Chiles Valley District, Diamond Mountain District, Howell Mountain, Los Carneros, Mt. Veeder, Oakville, Rutherford, St. Helena, Spring Mountain District, Stags Leap District, Yountville, Wild Horse Valley and Oak Knoll District. The Calistoga AVA is still pending approval.
Both the Napa Valley designation and the sub-AVA name must appear on the wine label simultaneously, with the exception of wines from the Carneros AVA, which is shared between the Napa Valley and the Sonoma County.
Cabernet Sauvignon is the undisputed king of Napa grapes, occupying over 45% of the vineyard acreage, followed by (predominantly) Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Riesling, Zinfandel, Merlot, Cab. Franc and to a lesser extent Petite Sirah, Sangiovese, Barbera, Dolcetto.
Frog's Leap, Dominus, David Ramey, Viader, Stag's Leap Cellars, Paras Vineyards, Heitz.
Cabernet Sauvignon lends itself particularly well in blends with Merlot. This is actually the archetypal Bordeaux blend, though in different proportions in the sub-regions and sometimes topped up with Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot.
In the Médoc and Graves the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend can range from 95% (Mouton-Rothschild) to as low as 40%. It is particularly suited to the dry, warm, free- draining, gravel-rich soils and is responsible for the redolent cassis characteristics as well as the depth of colour, tannic structure and pronounced acidity of Médoc wines. However 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wines can be slightly hollow-tasting in the middle palate and Merlot with its generous, fleshy fruit flavours acts as a perfect foil by filling in this cavity.
In St-Emilion and Pomerol, the blends are Merlot dominated as Cabernet Sauvignon can struggle to ripen there - when it is included, it adds structure and body to the wine. Sassicaia is the most famous Bordeaux blend in Italy and has spawned many imitations, whereby the blend is now firmly established in the New World and particularly in California and Australia.
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Medium garnet colored, the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Kayli Morgan Vineyard gives up notes of warm blackcurrants, black cherries, sassafras, earth, smoked meats and tilled soil with wafts of garrigue. Full-bodied, super concentrated and wonderfully powerful, it has a rock-solid frame and grainy texture, finishing very long and boldly spiced.
Lisa Perrotti-Brown - 07/12/2018
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