2014 Volnay, Les Taillepieds, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille, Burgundy

2014 Volnay, Les Taillepieds, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille, Burgundy

Product: 20148016786
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2014 Volnay, Les Taillepieds, 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille, Burgundy

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Despite the hail, it was possible to do 100% whole-cluster fermentation after meticulous sorting. The colour is bright and fresh, while the nose offers some wild strawberry and floral notes. The stems make the finish a touch dry at the moment, but this will come together and soften. There is a brilliant quality of fruit at the finish.

Étienne de Montille began picking whites on the 10th of September and reds on the 13th of September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worse in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less), yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries and beautiful clusters, so they could most likely continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification. The details are given for each wine. They will be long-lived wines.

Berry Bros. & Rudd

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Critics reviews

Jasper Morris MW91/100

Medium deep red, with some green notes to the bouquet. Whole bunches. Develops more florally. There is real concentration here, an impressive intensity that will deliver something impressive in the long run, but only to those prepared to tolerate a measure of under-ripeness.

Jasper Morris MW, InsideBurgundy.com (September 2017)

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Jancis Robinson MW16.5/20

100% whole bunch.

Spicy nose. Some sweetness. Not the freshest 2014 from this address, funnily enough. It's just a bit smudgy. Pretty tight and tough on the end. Pinched. 

Drink 2024 - 2030

Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com (January 2016)

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Wine Advocate91-93/100

Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, the 2014 Volnay 1er Cru les Taillepieds from Domaine de Montille has quite a complex bouquet with sous bois scents permeating the mixture of red and blackberries, a touch of flintiness tucked underneath that turns green with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, coarse tannin and a strong bitter note. Possibly, there is some stem addition here that has not worked in the wine's favour. This showed well out of barrel, but I must be convinced as it ages in bottle. Having said that, didn't Hubert de Montille's wines always require a decade to show their best?

Drink 2019 - 2035

Neal Martin, Wine Advocate (October 2017)

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Stephen Tanzer90+/100

(100% vendange entier; 35% new oak)

Good medium red. Subdued aromas and flavours of raspberry, black cherry, earth and smoky minerality accented by hints of pepper and herbs from the stems. Broad, ripe and smooth but quite dry. It displays very good spicy energy, length and lift, but the substantial dusty tannins leave the finish a bit clenched today. This slightly edgy wine will need patience.

Drink 2020 - 2028

Stephen Tanzer, Vinous.com (March 2017)

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About this WINE

Domaine de Montille

Domaine de Montille

The De Montille family has long been a venerable one in Burgundy, though Domaine de Montille’s reputation was properly established in 1947: prominent Dijon lawyer Hubert de Montille inherited 2.5 hectares in Volnay, later adding further parcels in Volnay, Pommard and Puligny. Hubert’s style was famously austere: low alcohol, high tannin and sublime in maturity.

His son, Etienne, joined him from ’83 to ’89 before becoming the senior winemaker, taking sole charge from ’95. Etienne also managed Château de Puligny-Montrachet from ’01; he bought it, with investors, in ’12.

The two estates were separate until ’17, when the government decreed that any wine estate bearing an appellation name could no longer offer wine from outside that appellation.

The solution was to absorb the château estate into De Montille – the amalgamated portfolio is now one of the finest in the Côte d’Or.

Etienne converted the estate to organics in ‘95, and to biodynamics in 2005, making the house style more generous and open, focusing on the use of whole bunches for the reds.

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The finest and most elegant red wines of the Côte de Beaune are grown in Volnay, a village which might be twinned with Chambolle- Musigny in the Côte de Nuits, for the high active chalk content in the soil and comparatively low clay content.

Whereas in earlier times Volnay was made in a particularly light, early drinking style, these days there are many producers making wines which age extremely well. The best vineyards run either side of the RN73 trunk road.
  • 98 hectares of village Volnay
  • 115 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (35 in all). The finest include Les Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Caillerets (including Clos des 60 Ouvrées) and Santenots in Meursault.
  • Recommended producers:  LafargeLafonde Montille

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Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.

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