Medium-bodied, racy and almost borderline tart on the palate, it holds it together and is a beautifully fresh, crisp southern Rhône white that will benefit from a year in the cellar and have a decade of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate - Issue#221 Oct 2015
About this WINE
Chateau la Nerthe
Château la Nerthe is a stunning, 500-year-old property that has become a ‘one to watch’ over the past few years. Working organically since 1998, its range of 57 parcels on various soil types and expositions produces a seamless and complete expression of Châteauneuf-du-Pape – marked by a wonderful complexity. The noticeable care taken in both the vineyard and cellar has, over the past few years, resulted in seriously impressive wines. This property is, in every way, a worthy rival to the likes of Château de Beaucastel.
Winemaker Rémi Jean is as inspiring as the terroir itself – his understanding of the multiple plots on this complex property and meticulous attention to detail is impressive. In 2020, he comments that, despite the ‘easier’ vintage, La Nerthe’s viticultural team was especially vigilant, carefully surveying plot by plot to anticipate certain interventions.
The remarkable terroir at Château la Nerthe allows this estate to produce beautiful wines, year-in, year-out. The mix of rocky, clay and sandy soils with the natural springs at the property imbue the wines with a wonderful freshness and minerality. Rémi talks about how Grenache gives his red blends “magic”, Mourvèdre brings complexity and Syrah the structure. The very special top white cuvée, Clos de Beauvenir, comes from a single, walled plot: an old castle garden right in front of the historic château.
The most celebrated village of the Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the birthplace of the now indispensable French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée system – imperfect though it may be. Compared to the Northern Rhône, the vineyards here are relatively flat and often feature the iconic galet pebbles – the precise benefits of which are a source of much debate. Minimum alcohol levels required by the AOC are the highest in France, but at 12.5% it is well below the natural generosity of Grenache, which only achieves its full aromatic potential when it is fully ripe and laden with the resultant high sugars. Syrah and Mourvèdre contribute the other defining elements in the blend, adding pepper, savoury spice and structure to the decadent Grenache. There are a further 10 permitted red grape varieties which can be used to adjust the “seasoning”. Of the five white varieties permitted, it is Grenache Noir’s sibling – predictably perhaps – Grenache Blanc, which dominates, though Roussanne shows a great deal of promise when handled well, notably at Château de Beaucastel.
White Rhône Blend
In the north, the white wines of Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, St-Joseph, and St-Péray are produced from blends of Marsanne and Roussanne. Generally Marsanne is the dominant partner and it lends colour, body and weight to the blend, as well as richly scented fruit. Roussanne, a notoriously low yielder and pernickety to grow, produces intensely aromatic wines which contribute bouquet, delicacy and finesse to the blend.
Until about 15 years ago there was very little interest in southern Rhône whites as it was widely believed that the combination of dull non aromatic grapes and the baking summer heat meant quality wine production was nigh impossible. Since then the quality has improved markedly through the introduction of cool fermentation techniques and increased plantings of northern Rhône white grapes.
The base of many blends is still Grenache Blanc, a widely planted variety producing fresh wines with apple-like fruits, often with hints of aniseed. Ugni Blanc is still found in many blends, as is Clairette though their general lack of character and definition has led to a reduction in plantings. The future for southern Rhône whites appears to lie with Roussanne, Marsanne, and, increasingly, Viognier.