2015 Chambolle-Musigny, Dujac Fils & Père, Burgundy
Neal Martin - 28/12/2016
About this WINE
Dujac Fils et Pere
Starting with the 2000 vintage, Jeremy Seysses set up a negociant business with his father Jacques in order to make attractive and well-priced wine from their own village Morey-St. Denis, supplemented by a wine each from Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny. The involvement of Jeremy at the Domaine has encouraged a gentle evolution in style, though the core Dujac principles of elegance and intensity remain firmly in place. The wines retain their characteristic smokiness in youth which develops into an ethereal leafy quality with age. An excellent source for good value Burgundy.
Chambolle produces the most elegant wines in the Côte de Nuits, having more active chalk and less clay in the soil than the other villages. The wines may be a little lighter in colour and less tannic than Gevrey-Chambertin but they have a sublime concentration of fruit. Village Chambolle-Musigny usually provides excellent value.
Le Musigny is one of the top half-dozen vineyards in Burgundy, producing wines of extraordinary intensity and yet with a magical velvety character. Les Amoureuses is immediately appealing, a wonderfully sensual wine which deserves Grand Cru status. Bonnes Mares tends to have a firmer structure and ages very well
- 94 hectares of village Chambolle-Musigny.
- 61 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (24 in all). The finest vineyards include Les Amoureuses, Les Charmes, Les Fuées, Les Baudes and Sentiers.
- 24 hectares of Grand Cru vineyard - Bonnes Mares and Le Musigny.
- Recommended producers: de Vogüé, Mugnier, Roumier, Barthod.
- Recommended restaurant: Le Chambolle
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
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The Chambolle bottling offers the most structure of the three this year, with robust, ripe red fruit on the nose and then a touch of tannin on the palate behind. Give this one a little more time. Drink 2021-2026.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
This mini négociant business has been a great source of high quality, inexpensive wine over the last few years, though Jeremy Seysses notes that it is getting harder and harder to source grapes of the right standard, at a price which still makes sense. We applaud their efforts to date and these 2015s, picked between 7th and 11th September, will once again provide delicious drinking before the domaine wines come round.
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