2016 Vosne-Romanée, Les Beaux Monts, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot, Burgundy
Neal Martin - 29/12/2017
About this WINE
Domaine Jean Grivot
Jean Grivot took over from his father, Gaston, in 1955. He handed the domaine on to son Étienne – married to Marielle Bize from Savigny – in the early 1980s. When Etienne Grivot took over, the house style was for gentle, graceful wines, perhaps a little weak in lesser vintages.
Étienne has since found his own voice, making a range of increasingly fine wines. Since the mid-2000s, he has reduced yields and fine-tuned vineyard and cellar work. The next generation – Mathilde and Hubert – are increasingly influential, working under their father’s experienced and wise guidance.
A small appellation entirely the ‘wrong’ side of the RN74 but nonetheless capable of producing delicious early drinking red Burgundy (though sometimes ageworthy from Tollot Beaut) and occasional whites.
- 168 hectares of village Chorey-lès-Beaune.
- No premier or grand cru vineyards.
- Recommended Producers: Tollot Beaut, Château de Chorey (Germain)
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
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This is just so elegant, cool and classy; an Audrey Hepburn of a wine. A portion of the vineyard has some old vines, up to 80 years old, that yield a strain of particularly small berries, although these are not handled separately. It’s intense, not rich; with complex warm spices and even a line of graphite. Drink 2023-2035.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
Jean Grivot, whose name continues to appear on the labels, took over from his father Gaston in 1955 and handed the estate on to his son Étienne in the early 1980s. Étienne, married to Marielle Bize from Savigny, has been through a number of incarnations as winemaker here. When he took over, his father’s style was for gentle, graceful wines which perhaps were a little weak in the lesser vintages. Étienne wanted to produce something more concentrated and started working with the controversial oenologist Guy Accad from 1987 to 1992. Since then Étienne has found his own voice and made a range of increasingly fine wines. The drive to reduce yields and fine-tune his work in the vineyards and cellar since the mid-2000s continues to enhance quality. The next generation, Mathilde and Hubert, are now working with their parents. The generational pendulum shifts a bit further here, with Mathilde and Hubert further to the fore this year, and Étienne says he was around more as an advisor. Mathilde reported that some of the early bunches were ready by the end of August, with small berries and thick skins. They waited and got the ideal amount of rain in September which allowed their harvest to homogenise, and they began on 27th September. Mathilde also gave a blow- by-blow analysis of every vineyard’s frost damage. There is no Chambolle d’Orveau this year.
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