2016 Domaine Marie & Pierre Benetière, Cordeloux, Syrah, Vin de France

Domaine Benetiere

Condrieu’s fall from grace, commercial or otherwise, has only relatively recently been addressed and now, given its meagre dimension, vines are so hard to come by that all those wise enough to have clung onto them in the depressed times are now unlikely to forsake them. Young (with a parenthetical ‘ish’ added) growers such as Pierre Benetière, an alumnus of Domaine Georges Vernay, have been lucky to get any foot-hold at all. 

His 2.5 hectares are on good south-east facing sites, at an altitude of 250 metres or so...good sites, but not the very best. He manages somehow, paradoxically by being rigorously conventional, to coax great extract and finesse from his vines, the eldest of which have 20 years. Barrel fermentation and elevage, coupled with a full malolactic and occasional bentonite fining, can hardly be seen as controversial, or even especially inspired. And yet his Condrieus are amongst the best in the appellation. Must be something to do with his rather waspish sense of humour.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

Vin de France

Vin de France is a wine classification in France that was introduced in 2010 to replace the former Vin de Table category. It represents a more flexible and modern approach to French wine production, offering winemakers greater freedom in terms of grape sourcing, blending, and winemaking techniques.

Unlike wines with controlled appellations such as AOC Alsace or Vin de Pays, which are tied to specific regions within France, Vin de France wines can be sourced from grapes grown anywhere in the country. This gives winemakers the freedom to experiment with grapes from different regions, allowing for greater creativity and innovation.

Winemakers can blend grape varieties from different regions or even different countries to create unique flavour profiles. This flexibility enables the production of a wide range of wine styles, from traditional varietal wines to innovative blends.

While Vin de France wines offer greater flexibility in production, they still must adhere to certain labelling requirements. The label must include the designation "Vin de France," along with the producer's name and the volume of alcohol. Additional information such as grape variety, vintage, and specific geographical origin may also be included on the label.

Vin de France wines may not have the prestige or strict regulations of wines from controlled appellations. However, they can still offer excellent quality and value. Many producers use Vin de France as a platform for experimentation and innovation, resulting in a diverse range of wines that cater to various tastes and preferences.

Vin de France wines are often positioned as versatile, everyday wines that are accessible and easy to understand. They can offer a good balance between quality and affordability, making them popular choices for everyday consumption.

Syrah/Shiraz

A noble black grape variety grown particularly in the Northern Rhône where it produces the great red wines of Hermitage, Cote Rôtie and Cornas, and in Australia where it produces wines of startling depth and intensity. Reasonably low yields are a crucial factor for quality as is picking at optimum ripeness. Its heartland, Hermitage and Côte Rôtie, consists of 270 hectares of steeply terraced vineyards producing wines that brim with pepper, spices, tar and black treacle when young. After 5-10 years they become smooth and velvety with pronounced fruit characteristics of damsons, raspberries, blackcurrants and loganberries.

It is now grown extensively in the Southern Rhône where it is blended with Grenache and Mourvèdre to produce the great red wines of Châteauneuf du Pape and Gigondas amongst others. Its spiritual home in Australia is the Barossa Valley, where there are plantings dating as far back as 1860. Australian Shiraz tends to be sweeter than its Northern Rhône counterpart and the best examples are redolent of new leather, dark chocolate, liquorice, and prunes and display a blackcurrant lusciousness.

South African producers such as Eben Sadie are now producing world- class Shiraz wines that represent astonishing value for money.