Joe Czerwinski - 31/10/2018
About this WINE
Paul Jaboulet Aîné are amongst the Rhône Valley’s most iconic producers. Hermitage ‘La Chapelle’ being their most famous wine – arguably the most famous of all Hermitage. Named after the small hermit's Chapel built in 1235 on the Hermitage hill, La Chapelle is often considered equal in complexity and age-worthiness to the Bordeaux First Growths. Founded in 1834 by Antoine Jaboulet (Paul was one of his sons), it was Paul’s son, Louis, and grandson, Gérard, who can be heralded among the great ambassadors for the both the region and the négociant. However, upon Gérard’s untimely death in 1997, the business began to struggle. Finally, they sold it to the Frey family in 2005, announcing a new era.
Under them, the Maison thrived once more. Jacques and Nicolas Frey are involved in the day-to-day running of the Maison Jaboulet, while Caroline Frey has been at the helm of the winemaking team since ’06. She immediately set to work converting the estate to sustainable farming. They were certified organic in ’16, and also farm biodynamically.
They own 120 hectares vines over the Northern Rhône and make use of bought grapes to complete their range, now covering 26 appellations. They continue to innovate, bringing new wines into the range and introducing new techniques, including concrete eggs to replace some use of wood.
Their ’20s have all the hallmarks of the vintage, showing power and concentration, alongside freshness and restraint. There is an elegance and purity to the wines that defines Caroline’s continued emphasis on terroir and fruit quality.
Cornas is a small appellation, just 150 hectares, located south of St Joseph. It’s on the west side of the river. The name “Cornas” comes from an old Celtic dialect term, meaning “burnt land”, so it’s no surprise that on the steep terraces here, facing south, temperatures are significantly higher than those in Hermitage, which is just 7km away.
The granite soils are home to the Syrah grape, producing reds that sit somewhere between those of Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie. These are strong and powerful wines, with nervy acidity and a robust, rustic charm to them. Their prominent tannins mean that they often demand time in the cellar to express their underlying elegance and complexity.
A noble black grape variety grown particularly in the Northern Rhône where it produces the great red wines of Hermitage, Cote Rôtie and Cornas, and in Australia where it produces wines of startling depth and intensity. Reasonably low yields are a crucial factor for quality as is picking at optimum ripeness. Its heartland, Hermitage and Côte Rôtie, consists of 270 hectares of steeply terraced vineyards producing wines that brim with pepper, spices, tar and black treacle when young. After 5-10 years they become smooth and velvety with pronounced fruit characteristics of damsons, raspberries, blackcurrants and loganberries.
It is now grown extensively in the Southern Rhône where it is blended with Grenache and Mourvèdre to produce the great red wines of Châteauneuf du Pape and Gigondas amongst others. Its spiritual home in Australia is the Barossa Valley, where there are plantings dating as far back as 1860. Australian Shiraz tends to be sweeter than its Northern Rhône counterpart and the best examples are redolent of new leather, dark chocolate, liquorice, and prunes and display a blackcurrant lusciousness.
South African producers such as Eben Sadie are now producing world- class Shiraz wines that represent astonishing value for money.