2017 Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Burgundy
About this WINE
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze in Burgundy is managed by Philippe Drouhin, who took over from his father Bernard after working with him for many years. The domaine exploits 11 hectares of vines in some of the most prestigious vineyards of the Côte d'Or. The philosophy of the domaine is to allow the vine and terroir to express themselves and to respect traditions whilst adapting to modern techniques.
Philippe Drouhin is currently at the head of this significant estate which has been quietly turning out good to very good wines for a little while now. He has been joined by his son Nicolas to ensure continuity. They represent the 5th and 6th generations of the domaine originally founded by Jean-Baptiste Laroze in 1850.
The premier crus Au Closeau and Craipillot were vinified together until 2004. The Chambolle Musigny is a blend of premier cru Les Baudes with a whisker of villages Verroilles. This is in fact a rare Gevrey producer who succeeds with wines from Chambolle, most triumphantly with his excellent bottling of Bonnes Mares.
The grands crus are entirely in new wood, the premiers crus 50:50 and the village wines are matured in one year old barrels.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
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