2017 Meursault, En la Barre, Domaine Antoine Jobard, Burgundy

2017 Meursault, En la Barre, Domaine Antoine Jobard, Burgundy

Product: 20171232888
Prices start from £287.00 per case Buying options
2017 Meursault, En la Barre, Domaine Antoine Jobard, Burgundy

Description

A lovely rich, open and spicy wine. Given the house style, this is one of the more accessible in the range but, even with these descriptors, it is by no means overblown. It just feels healthy and plush. Drink 2022-2028.

Antoine feels that 2017 is a little less rich than 2015, but also fresher. He likes wines with body, so the freshness is a bonus, adding another dimension. He will bottle in December and January; he feels that after a warm summer, two winters in barrel is too long and earlier bottling is necessary to capture the fruit. He now wonders whether he should have bottled his 2015s sooner. Harvest began on 31st August – even for his Blagny, which used to be one of the last to ripen, indicative of the warming conditions in the region.

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6 x 75cl bottle
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About this WINE

Francois et Antoine Jobard

Francois et Antoine Jobard

François Jobard is as quiet as they come. He has been making top rate Meursault for 50 years in a very understated way, starting work with his father in 1957. However tastings at the domaine have become a little more voluble, since 2002 when son Antoine joined François, the label mentioning both names. This quiet and unassuming grower has nearly 5 hectares of vines in Meursault and produces a minuscule 2,000 cases a year. From 2007 the design has changed and the name has evolved to Domaine Antoine Jobard. But Clint Eastwood look-alike François has still been in evidence when I go to taste at the domaine.

The winemaking is traditional here - Jobard abhors the excessive use of new oak and extended lees stirring which he feels merely serve to flatter the wines when young, yet add little to their long-term ageing potential. If you like Meursaults that are big, broad and oaky, and are as yellow as French headlights, then this may not be the domaine for you. However, if you like Meursaults that are taut, mineral, complex and refined, then François Jobard is your man. Like their maker, his wines reflect an unhurried restraint, competence, dedication and precision, giving them complex and elegant characteristics.

His wines are not flamboyant but are graceful and steely and display astonishing mineral intensity and finesse. François Jobard wines taste superb in the barrel but then need years in bottle before they show their qualities. They are aged in barrel for two years and then bottled with a reasonably heavy dose of sulphur to ensure their longevity at the expense of youthful charm. Probably the key to this style though is the decision not to settle the solids out of the juice before it goes to barrel for fermentation. Antoine does not intend to make significant changes, except to the label, though there will surely be some fine tuning. Already the wines are bottled just a few months earlier, to avoid a second summer in barrel.
 
Their small plot of Blagny rouge which always made a rather austere wine has been pulled out and replanted with chardonnay so the domaine is now entirely white.

Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.

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Meursault

Meursault

There are more top producers in Meursault than in any other commune of the Côte d’Or. Certainly it is the most famous and popular of the great white appellations. Its wines are typically rich and savoury with nutty, honeyed hints and buttery, vanilla spice from the oak.

Even though it is considerably larger than its southerly neighbours Chassagne and Puligny, Meursault contains no Grands Crus. Its three best Premiers Crus, however – Les Perrières, Les Genevrières and Les Charmes – produce some of the region’s greatest whites: they are full, round and powerful, and age very well. Les Perrières in particular can produce wines of Grand Cru quality, a fact that is often reflected in its price. Meursault has also been one of the driving forces of biodynamic viticulture in the region, as pioneered by Lafon and Leflaive.

Many of the vineyards below Premier Cru, known as ‘village’ wines, are also well worth looking at. The growers vinify their different vineyard holdings separately, which rarely happens in Puligny or Chassagne. Such wines can be labelled with the ‘lieu-dit’ vineyard alongside (although in smaller type to) the Meursault name.

Premier Cru Meursault should be enjoyed from five to 15 years of age, although top examples can last even longer. Village wines, meanwhile, are normally at their best from three to 10 years.

Very occasionally, red Meursault is produced with some fine, firm results. The best red Pinot Noir terroir, Les Santenots, is afforded the courtesy title of Volnay Santenots, even though it is actually in Meursault.

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Chardonnay

Chardonnay

Chardonnay is the "Big Daddy" of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world. It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.

Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.

It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.

Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.

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Reviews

Customer reviews

The Wine Advocate90-92/100

Critic reviews

The Wine Advocate90-92/100
The 2017 Meursault En la Barre is excellent, wafting from the glass with aromas of green orchard fruit, lemon oil, mint and subtle praline. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and ample, with excellent concentration and intensity. Lent delineation by bright acids, the finish is long and saline. After the more tensile, hillside Meursault Tillets, the En la Barre is broader and more unctuous, though it retains excellent energy.
William Kelley - 04/01/2019 Read more