2017 Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, Domaine Georges Roumier, Burgundy

2017 Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, Domaine Georges Roumier, Burgundy

Product: 20178014681
 
2017 Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, Domaine Georges Roumier, Burgundy

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Description

This is also lightly reduced and it's enough to blur the underlying nuances of the nose save for a whiff of herbal tea. Otherwise there is excellent power and drive to the intense and even more muscular broad-shouldered flavors that culminate in an explosive, dusty and very, very tightly wound finish. Despite the excellent size and weight, this remains beautifully proportioned and should age effortlessly for several decades. In a word, terrific.

Drink 2035+

Burghound (Jan 2020)

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Critics reviews

Burghound94/100
This is also lightly reduced and it's enough to blur the underlying nuances of the nose save for a whiff of herbal tea. Otherwise there is excellent power and drive to the intense and even more muscular broad-shouldered flavors that culminate in an explosive, dusty and very, very tightly wound finish. Despite the excellent size and weight, this remains beautifully proportioned and should age effortlessly for several decades. In a word, terrific.

Drink 2035+

Burghound (Jan 2020) Read more
Neal Martin, Vinous93-95/100
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru was showing quite a lot of reduction on the nose when I visited (Christophe Roumier was taken aback, as it had been racked three weeks earlier). Fortunately, the palate shows great potential; it’s as beautifully balanced as ever, with a fine bead of acidity. This is more understated and less outgoing than other vintages encountered from barrel, and not quite as persistent on the finish, but with a fine dash of black pepper on the aftertaste. There is something very assured about this Bonnes-Mares, though this year, it is Les Amoureuses that sends tingles down the spine.

Drink 2022-2040

Neal Martin, Vinous (Jan 2019) Read more
Tim Atkin MW96/100
The Roumier holdings, divided one-third red soils to two-thirds white, add up to 1.89ha over six parcels - if only the domaine had as much Musigny! This shows the richer, meatier notes of Bonnes Mares, with savoury tannins, underlying power and a fresh, chalky finish. A very good expression of the grand cru.

Drink 2025-2032

Tim Atkin MW, Decanter (Nov 2018) Read more

About this WINE

Domaine Georges Roumier

Domaine Georges Roumier

The domaine was founded in 1924 by Georges Roumier, who began domaine bottling in 1945. He was succeeded in 1957 by his son Jean-Marie and now grandson Christophe, who joined his father in 1982 and took over completely in 1992. Most of the wines are rented (en fermage) from family members although Ruchottes Chambertin is held on a share cropping deal with an external proprietor, Michel Bonnefond. The wines are seductively fruity in their youth yet with excellent ageing potential.

The grapes are sorted in the vineyard, with a table de tri at the winery since 2003. They are mostly destemmed, albeit depending on vineyard and vintage, with a few more stems being used recently – then placed in wooden fermenters. The juice is given a cool soak at 15° then allowed to start naturally. The juice is punched down twice a day and temperature controlled so as not to exceed 32°C.

There is no great reliance on new wood in the maturation cellar, with 15-25% being used for village wines, 25-40% for premiers crus and no more than 50% for Bonnes Mares. In recent years Christophe has been searching for, and achieving, a greater sense of precision in his wines.

Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.

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Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.

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