One of two macerated Aligotés from cult winemaker Yann Durieux, this spicy, hay-tinged wine shows very clearly that Aligoté doesn’t have to be an inferior variety – and also that it takes to long skin contact (here 30 days) like a charm, fleshing out just enough to add textural interest. The freshness and fruit purity are impressive. Organic, no added sulphites.
Drink 2020 - 2026
Simon Woolf, Decanter.com (December 2021)
About this WINE
Yann Durieux is a remarkably talented and passionate young winemaker making waves in the Burgundy wine scene. Hailing from a family of winemakers in Nuits-Saint-Georges, Yann’s exposure to the world of viticulture began at a remarkably young age. At just 13 years old, he already vinified his first vintage solo, setting the stage for his future in winemaking.
In 1999, Yann had a life-changing encounter with Henry-Frederich Roch, which profoundly influenced his winemaking philosophy and deepened his love for the concept of terroir. Subsequently, he spent a decade working with Domaine des Vignes du Maynes before joining Domaine du Prieure Roch (‘DPR’) in 2007. At DPR, he not only contributed to cellar operations but was entrusted with overseeing their esteemed parcel of Clos-de-Beze. This responsibility was a testament to his exceptional understanding of biodynamic viticulture and profound appreciation for terroir.
In 2010, Yann decided to pursue his dream of reclaiming his family’s lost vineyards in the Hautes-Côtes-de Nuits, and thus, he founded his Domaine, ‘Recrue des Sens.’ For the initial three vintages, Yann utilised the cellars of DPR before finding a vigneron’s house and cellar in Villiers-la-Faye to establish his winemaking base.
Nestled in the Hautes-Côtes-de Nuits, with Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) as its neighbour, Yann’s vineyards lie in magical terroir. With a profound connection to the land and a family legacy that stretches back through generations of winemakers, Yann brings a deep understanding and love for the region to his winemaking craft.
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits covers land in 19 communes, stretching from around the hill of Vergy in the north to Magny-lès-Villers, which sits astride the dividing line with the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune.
Arcenant is one of the best wine villages in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, and is also noted for the quality of its fruit-based liqueurs such as the Crème de Cassis (as well as Framboise, Pêche de Vigne, Guignolet and more) from Jean-Baptiste Joannet. The leading wine estates are Olivier Jouan and Aurélien Verdet.
Le Clos du Prieuré is located on a south-facing slope above the village, with a white marl and limestone bedrock with affinity to parts of Corton-Charlemagnee, according to Thibault Liger-Belair – whose plot is planted at 10,000 vines per hectare rather than the usual higher training and wider spacing of the Hautes-Côtes. The other main producer is Aurélien Verdet, as before.
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.