2017 Brunello di Montalcino, Colombaiolo, Tassi, Tuscany, Italy
James Suckling, jamessuckling.com (November 2021)
Michaela Morris, Decanter (November 2021)
Eric Guido, vinous.com (December 2021)
About this WINE
The Tassi family have deep roots in Montalcino. They have a legacy of working the vineyards of Biondi Santi and then as beekeepers, before turning their attention back to wine. Owner Fabio Tassi is a restaurateur, running the town’s flagship Drogheria Franci restaurant, and he owns its most prolific wine shop. His exposure to, and understanding of, Brunello’s wines, vintages and vineyards are greater than most – as are his relationships with many of the great winemaking families of Italy.
A black grape widely grown in Central Italy and the main component of Chianti and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano as well as being the sole permitted grape for the famed Brunello di Montalcino.
It is a high yielding, late ripening grape that performs best on well-drained calcareous soils on south-facing hillsides. For years it was blighted by poor clonal selection and massive overcropping - however since the 1980s the quality of Sangiovese-based wines has rocketed upwards and they are now some of the most sought after in the world.
It produces wines with pronounced tannins and acidity, though not always with great depth of colour, and its character can vary from farmyard/leather nuances through to essence of red cherries and plums. In the 1960s the advent of Super Tuscans saw bottlings of 100% Sangiovese wines, as well as the introduction of Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon blends, the most famous being Tignanello.
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This magnificent single vineyard sits at 300 metres’ altitude. The soils are laced with the same calcareous limestone used to build the nearby abbey, giving the wine salinity. Long fermentation and maceration in mixed Slavonian oak botti was followed by 28 months’ maturation. The wine is generous and appealing, with smoky depth, modern gloss, spice and vibrant minerality.
Drink 2024 - 2034
Davy Żyw, Senior Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (Feb 2022)
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