2018 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge, Clos des Papes, Paul Avril & Fils, Rhône
Bright violet. Expressive, smoke-accented cherry, Chambord, licorice, succulent herb and exotic spice qualities on the nose. Weighty and broad on the palate, offering intense red fruit, floral pastille, allspice, cola and botanical herb flavors that turn sweeter as the wine opens up. The floral note gains strength with air and drives the impressively long, penetrating finish, which features polished tannins and resonating cherry and floral notes.
Drink 2025 - 2035
Josh Raynolds, vinous.com (Oct 2021)
Bursting with striking red-fruit aromas and delicate cinnamon, clove and star anise notes, the 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape is another terrific vintage from this estate. While certainly full-bodied and powerful, it's also lithe and silky, with an almost airy feel on the palate that translates into great elegance on the lengthy finish.
Drink 2020 - 2030
Joe Czerwinski. Wine Advocate (Sep 2020)
Tank sample. Such purity and clarity of fruit, with a tar and medicinal complexity plus a lightly spiced finish. It shows the typical Clos des Papes delicacy and tone: reverberant but not shrill. There's lots of bass, in fact. Perhaps not the longest-lived, from the soft structure?
Drink 2022 - 2032
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com (Nov 2019)
The 35% Mourvèdre is quite present on the nose, which shows deep black cherry kirsch aromas, sweet strawberry and a potpourri, floral lift. This is a soft, succulent, juicy style, with bright and concentrated strawberry fruit, and although the alcohol is a little raised, there's a lovely freshness to the wine. More Mourvèdre than usual due to the rampant mildew that the southern Rhône suffered in 2018, which attacked the Grenache more severely than the Syrah and Mourvèdre.
Drink 2020 - 2039
Matt Walls, Decanter.com (Oct 2020)
About this WINE
Paul Avril et Fils
With Vincent Avril at the helm, Clos des Papes is one of the most highly regarded properties; not only in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but in the world of wine. This family estate has been certified organic for 15 years, with high attention to detail translating into impressively low production levels. Given that the vines here average over 50 years of age, they are firmly prepared and able to withstand many ordeals, including Mistral winds at 140 kilometres an hour, severe heatwaves and drought conditions. Thankfully, they were spared from the latter two in 2020.
When you visit this iconic estate, what stands out most is the complete focus on the vineyard and the absolutely hands-off approach in the cellar. The wines are amongst the purest expression of terroir you could ever wish to taste. There is a magic here that transcends the liquid in the bottle – Clos des Papes is a nonpareil of sheer brilliance.
Vincent is exceptionally happy with his ’20 wines, saying, “I can tell you ’20 is, I think, a great year that will stand the test of time. A very balanced, fine vintage with great freshness, silky tannins and good length in the mouth. Everything was climatically united, both for the red and the white. Currently, ’20 reminds me of ’05 and ’07.”
The most celebrated village of the Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the birthplace of the now indispensable French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée system – imperfect though it may be. Compared to the Northern Rhône, the vineyards here are relatively flat and often feature the iconic galet pebbles – the precise benefits of which are a source of much debate. Minimum alcohol levels required by the AOC are the highest in France, but at 12.5% it is well below the natural generosity of Grenache, which only achieves its full aromatic potential when it is fully ripe and laden with the resultant high sugars. Syrah and Mourvèdre contribute the other defining elements in the blend, adding pepper, savoury spice and structure to the decadent Grenache. There are a further 10 permitted red grape varieties which can be used to adjust the “seasoning”. Of the five white varieties permitted, it is Grenache Noir’s sibling – predictably perhaps – Grenache Blanc, which dominates, though Roussanne shows a great deal of promise when handled well, notably at Château de Beaucastel.
Southern Rhône Blend
The vast majority of wines from the Southern Rhône are blends. There are 5 main black varieties, although others are used and the most famous wine of the region, Châteauneuf du Pape, can be made from as many as 13 different varieties. Grenache is the most important grape in the southern Rhône - it contributes alcohol, warmth and gentle juicy fruit and is an ideal base wine in the blend. Plantings of Syrah in the southern Rhône have risen dramatically in the last decade and it is an increasingly important component in blends. It rarely attains the heights that it does in the North but adds colour, backbone, tannins and soft ripe fruit to the blend.
The much-maligned Carignan has been on the retreat recently but is still included in many blends - the best old vines can add colour, body and spicy fruits. Cinsault is also backtracking but, if yields are restricted, can produce moderately well-coloured wines adding pleasant-light fruit to red and rosé blends. Finally, Mourvèdre, a grape from Bandol on the Mediterranean coast, has recently become an increasingly significant component of Southern Rhône blends - it often struggles to ripen fully but can add acidity, ripe spicy berry fruits and hints of tobacco to blends.
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The blend is only 45% Grenache this year, thanks to the variety’s susceptibility to mildew. The resulting wine has a dark red berry profile with fennel and white pepper spice. It’s poised, despite the wine’s concentration, garrigue aromas combining with liquorice and black cherries. There’s a silkiness to the palate; the fine-grained tannins feeling incredibly well-integrated, even in the wine’s youth. The finish is generously long. Drink 2022-2040+.
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