2018 Moulin-à-Vent, Vieilles Vignes, Thibault Liger-Belair, Beaujolais

2018 Moulin-à-Vent, Vieilles Vignes, Thibault Liger-Belair, Beaujolais

Product: 20181202375
 
2018 Moulin-à-Vent, Vieilles Vignes, Thibault Liger-Belair, Beaujolais

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Description

For more than two decades, Thibault Liger-Belair has been following organic and biodynamic practices. He believes that winemaking starts not with the fruit, but with the soil. “We all talk about terroir, but my focus is on the soil and putting what it needs first,” Thibaut explains. His wines are pure, focused and desirable.

This comes from seven separate parcels in a belt around the bottom of the hill of Moulin-à-Vent, where the persistent wind causes a bit of hydric stress. The vines are between 63 and 108 years old, on pink and white sand over granite and quartz. With 50% whole-bunch, this is almost overt, but the finish crackles with granitic intent.

Drink 2022-2032.

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Critics reviews

Jasper Morris MW89-91/100
This cuvée represents half the total production and comes from 7 plots of vines aged between 65 and 105 year. 40% whole bunch vinification, with the wine then matured in foudres until January 2020. Rich bright purple, with a touch of reduction but not unclean, and full of energy. Delicious sweet fruit opens out beautifully on the palate, sweet cherries and a lovely fine grain. Nearly 14.5% alcohol but this still tastes fresh. Impressive.

Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com (nov 2019) Read more

About this WINE

Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair is part of our Spotlight on sustainability series. You can view the full range here.

Thibault Liger-Belair is cousin to Vicomte Liger Belair of Vosne Romanée. In 2001 he took over an old family property in Nuits St Georges, taking back the vines which had been contracted out to various share croppers, and leased a cuverie just down the road. The family jewels (his branch) consist of Richebourg, Clos de Vougeot and Nuits St Georges Les St Georges, to which he has added further vineyards and a few additional cuvées made from purchased grapes.

The vines are now certified organic and farmed biodynamically, with horses used to plough the vineyards where possible. The grapes are rigorously sorted on a table de tri, then destalked and fermented without much punching down or pumping over.  They will be racked once during the elevage, but Thibault is not afraid of reductive flavours at this stage which, he feels, adds to the eventual substance and complexity of the wine. The oak regime is not to exceed 50% new barrels but also not to use any barrels more than three years old. The natural style of Thibault’s wines is plump and full-bodied, though the benefits of his farming methods seem to be bringing a more mineral aspect to the fruit as well.

The natural style of Thibault’s wines is plump and full-bodied, though the benefits of his farming methods seem to be bringing a more mineral aspect to the fruit as well.

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Moulin-à-Vent

Moulin-à-Vent

Known as the ‘King of Beaujolais’ for its power, structure and longevity, Moulin-à-Vent is the most atypical of all the Beaujolais Crus, even if it is potentially the best. Its style is the antithesis of light, fluffy Beaujolais, and when fully mature (often at 10 years old or more) it resembles more a fine Burgundy, or even a Rhône, than Beaujolais. Named after the local windmill (which translates as moulin-à-vent in French) Moulin-à-Vent is a real vindication of the principle of ‘terroir’. 

Moulin-à-Vent's neighbour Fleurie produces perfumed, silky, approachable wines, while Moulin-à-Vent, using the same grape (100% Gamay) and broadly the same vinification, makes wines that are meaty, tannic and intense, and need 2-3 years to mature.  The only possible explanation, it seems, is the high proportion of iron and manganese in Moulin-à-Vent’s soil. Moulin-à-Vent tends to be most expensive of the Beaujolais Crus, although happily it is home to a number of very fine producers, so there is plenty for wine lovers to choose from.

Recommended producers: Jacky Janodet, Olivier Merlin.

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Gamay

Gamay

A French variety planted predominately in Beaujolais where it is the grape behind everything from light and often acidic Beaujolais Nouveau through to the more serious and well-structured wines from the 10 cru villages. It takes its name from a hamlet just outside Chassagne-Montrachet and was at one stage widely planted on the Côte d`Or. However it was gradually phased out due to its poor yield and supposed poor quality of its wines.

The majority of Gamay wines in Beaujolais are labelled as Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages and are deliciously juicy, easy drinking, gulpable wines. Of more interest are the Cru wines from the 10 villages in the north of the region where the soil is predominantly granitic schist and where the vines are planted on gently undulating slopes. These can be well-structured, intensely perfumed wines, redolent of ripe black fruits and, while delicious young, will reward medium term cellaring.

Gamay is also grown in the Touraine region of the Loire where it produces soft, well-balanced, gluggable wines for drinking young.

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