2019 Arbois Chardonnay, Patchwork, Domaine Tissot, Jura
Critics reviews
Drink 2024+
Burghound (Apr 2019)
Drink 2022-2033
Neal Martin, Vinous (Nov 2018)
From several different sites, some more clay, some more limestone. Fermentation: 6–14 months in barrel, full malo. Aged 12–14 months in barrel, 10% new.
A little less obviously smoky/reductive than the 2018, with the fruit more to the fore: citrus that is both lemon and a little bit orangey. Also some toasty richness. More reductive/smoky on the palate than on the nose, with possibly even greater intensity of fruit and higher-tasting acidity than the 2018 (which was a warmer vintage and had longer in oak for that reason). Fabulous concentration of flavours but with no heaviness. Highly complex and multilayered for such a young wine, with a long salty finish, like the 2018. Not quite as savoury as the 2018, more mouth-watering, and with that mineral tension that you can taste even with the intensity of the wine. Once again, VVGV.
Drink 2022 - 2030
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com (Oct 2021)
Drink 2021-2025
jancisrobinson.com (Dec 2018)
About this WINE
Domaine Tissot
The lower slopes of the Jura mountains are among the most beautiful parts of viticultural France. They form the eastern flank of the Saone valley, mirroring the Côte d’Or across the way. It is a shame that their wines are much less well known.
Two main white grapes are used, Savagnin and Chardonnay, to make different styles of wine. The barrels of Savagnin are not topped up, so they become lightly and deliberately oxidised, though the wine is saved from spoilage by the formation of a film of yeast known as ‘flor’ on top of the wine, as also happens with fino sherry. Unusual but exciting wine.
The Chardonnay barrels are kept topped up, but even so the wines tend to offer a hint of the same nutty character on top of the more classic outline of the Chardonnay grape.
Stéphane Tissot is a leading grower in the wine appellation of Arbois, where he farms his vineyards biodynamically and is rare in offering single vineyard bottlings such as Les Bruyères.
Arbois
Arbois is the most important appellation in Jura and the largest along with Côtes du Jura. Home of one of the fathers of microbiology, Louis Pasteur, the appellation takes its name from the small town of Arbois, which is nestled away in the verdant Jura countryside.
The harshness of Arbois’ winters can be an impediment to wine growers but this doesn’t stop the production of some notable wines. The appellation makes wines of a variety of styles:
- Dry whites (in the traditional oxidative or modern aromatic style) from Chardonnay and the region’s signature grape, Savagnin
- Light, fresh, dry reds from Pinot Noir, Trousseau, or Poulsard
- And the regional specialities vin jaune (medium sweet) and vin de paille.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
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Description
A brooding nose reluctantly reveals notes of plum, violet and freshly turned earth. The very supple and delicious flavors are not especially concentrated though I do like the relatively fine texture and persistence. Even so, this will need to add depth to merit the top end of my projected range.
Drink 2024+
Burghound (Apr 2019)
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