2019 Arbois Chardonnay, Patchwork, Domaine Tissot, Jura

2019 Arbois Chardonnay, Patchwork, Domaine Tissot, Jura

Product: 20191433911
2019 Arbois Chardonnay, Patchwork, Domaine Tissot, Jura

Description

The 2017 Beaune Grèves 1er Cru has a harmonious bouquet with ample ripe Morello cherry, strawberry and raspberry preserve aromas, a hint of vanilla in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, a little more compact than the Les Perrières and with more girth towards the grippy finish. As such, give this more bottle age because it is a fine Beaune Grèves.

Drink 2022-2033

Neal Martin, Vinous (Nov 2018)

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Critics reviews

Neal Martin, Vinous91-93/100
Burghound89-91/100
jancisrobinson.com17.5/20
jancisrobinson.com16/20
Neal Martin, Vinous91-93/100
The 2017 Beaune Grèves 1er Cru has a harmonious bouquet with ample ripe Morello cherry, strawberry and raspberry preserve aromas, a hint of vanilla in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, a little more compact than the Les Perrières and with more girth towards the grippy finish. As such, give this more bottle age because it is a fine Beaune Grèves.

Drink 2022-2033

Neal Martin, Vinous (Nov 2018) Read more
Burghound89-91/100
A brooding nose reluctantly reveals notes of plum, violet and freshly turned earth. The very supple and delicious flavors are not especially concentrated though I do like the relatively fine texture and persistence. Even so, this will need to add depth to merit the top end of my projected range.

Drink 2024+

Burghound (Apr 2019) Read more
jancisrobinson.com17.5/20

From several different sites, some more clay, some more limestone. Fermentation: 6–14 months in barrel, full malo. Aged 12–14 months in barrel, 10% new.

A little less obviously smoky/reductive than the 2018, with the fruit more to the fore: citrus that is both lemon and a little bit orangey. Also some toasty richness. More reductive/smoky on the palate than on the nose, with possibly even greater intensity of fruit and higher-tasting acidity than the 2018 (which was a warmer vintage and had longer in oak for that reason). Fabulous concentration of flavours but with no heaviness. Highly complex and multilayered for such a young wine, with a long salty finish, like the 2018. Not quite as savoury as the 2018, more mouth-watering, and with that mineral tension that you can taste even with the intensity of the wine. Once again, VVGV.

Drink 2022 - 2030

Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com (Oct 2021)

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jancisrobinson.com16/20
Lightish cherry. Juicy, tangy cherry fruit. Dry and quite stemmy on the palate. Light-bodied, fresh and just in balance. Spicy, stemmy, fresh finish. A little bit dry overall.

Drink 2021-2025

jancisrobinson.com (Dec 2018) Read more

About this WINE

Domaine Tissot

Domaine Tissot

The lower slopes of the Jura mountains are among the most beautiful parts of viticultural France. They form the eastern flank of the Saone valley, mirroring the Côte d’Or across the way. It is a shame that their wines are much less well known.

Two main white grapes are used, Savagnin and Chardonnay, to make different styles of wine. The barrels of Savagnin are not topped up, so they become lightly and deliberately oxidised, though the wine is saved from spoilage by the formation of a film of yeast known as ‘flor’ on top of the wine, as also happens with fino sherry. Unusual but exciting wine.

The Chardonnay barrels are kept topped up, but even so the wines tend to offer a hint of the same nutty character on top of the more classic outline of the Chardonnay grape.

Stéphane Tissot is a leading grower in the wine appellation of Arbois, where he farms his vineyards biodynamically and is rare in offering single vineyard bottlings such as Les Bruyères.

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Jura

Jura

An hour's drive east of Beaune lies the 1,450-hectare Jura umbrella appellation, comprising the Arbois, Arbois-Papillon, Côtes du Jura, Chateau-Chalon and L'Etoile viticultural zones.

Of these, Château-Chalon is the smallest at 690 hectares, and focuses exclusively on making Vin Jaune, the prized sweet wine that was first made in the 14th century. L'Étoile produces a variety of styles, meanwhile, mainly oxidative Chardonnay as well as Vin Jaune and Vin de Paille.

The area is dramatically beautiful, as much for its sub-alpine landscape as for its remarkable wines, which draw on an essentially continental climate, a multi-faceted and varied terroir (limestone crowns over blue, red and grey marl), and indigenous varietals of Savagnin, Trousseau and Poulsard, alongside Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

In a style not dissimilar to Sherry, a flor or voile yeast is encouraged to grow on all good Savagnins which effectievly start out as a Vin Jaune, before being pulled after a few years in cask, undisturbed, to be bottled as Côtes du Jura (often blended with some Chardonnay).

Vin Jaune itself requires six years and three months to graduate, again non ouillés (not topped up), before being bottled in the traditional 62cl Clavelin, with the Château-Chalon appellation the finest source. 

The red Poulsard and Trousseau make fascinating dry wines, yet also are blended together with Savagnin when making the delicious Vin de Paille, which demands low yields of 20 hl/ha, and at least six weeks shrivelling on straw mats, followed by three years in cask before bottling.

Macvin is a largely sweet-wine-making appellation that sources its grapes from all over the Jura region. Macvin wines are produced by stopping the fermentation with the addition of the local spirit.

 

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Chardonnay

Chardonnay

Chardonnay is the "Big Daddy" of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world. It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.

Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.

It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.

Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.

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